- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 4,216
- Age
- 49
- Location
- Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
- Bike
- ST1100 & ST1300
- STOC #
- 6145
This winter I was picking up some tools to expand my shop a little. One thing I got was the Motion Pro 8mm Mini Bleeder.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0482-Mini-Bleeder/dp/B0077QSGFG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2
I went through and replaced the brake pads and did a full flush of the brake system on my 1300 a few days ago. In the past I used a Mighty Vac for all bleeds and flushes. Here is what I found in using this new tool.
First thing I noticed about this is that it can be a little hard to get it on the bleed nipple. I think the rubber seal is pretty tight which it probably needs to be and will likely break in over time a bit. Not a big deal. I started going through the brakes and came to the first issue. The top bleed point on the right front caliper. There is no way to get the tool on this point without removing the caliper. The nipple is too close to the fork and it isn't going on there. I then stopped and dug out the mighty vac for that point. The next issue came when I got to the point where you tip up the left caliper. Maybe I am doing something wrong here but with a mighty vac you are just pulling through fluid so you don't pump the brakes. With this you need to work the brake lever to push the fluid through the one way valve in the bleeder. The problem as I see it is won't the caliper pistons come out when the caliper is tipped up? Not wanting to fight to get the pistons pushed back again after already doing a pad change I just grabbed a couple of those wooden shims used for installing doors and windows in your house that I had in the shop and wedged them between the pads. I didn't try it without the shims in place but maybe someone else can chime in with that possible issue. The rest of the bleed points went fine. No issues connecting it to any point but I know igofar has mentioned he prefers the traditional motion pro bleeder over the mini because he can bleed the proportioning block without removing the plastic. Wasn't an issue for me this time as all the plastic was off. I typically bleed every spring when my bike is in this state of being ripped apart anyhow so it wasn't an issue. The bigger problem was the right front upper bleed point. One other comment was that I was doing this by my self. One thing that I couldn't do was see the line on the tool when bleeding the rear caliper and had a hard time seeing the left side. This is an issue because you want to be able to see if you are getting any bubbles. I did put teflon tape on all my bleed points back when I first used my mighty vac so I don't have the bubble issue on that. The trade off is that you are right there watching your fluid level so you are not likely to suck all your brake fluid out and have to start over. I have done that with the mighty vac.
:
On to the next job. The clutch. Couldn't even use the Motion Pro on this. It would be a tight fit to get in there as the coolant overflow bottle is in the way. The other problem is that it is a 10mm not an 8mm like the brakes so the tool won't work even if you could get it in there. Pulled out the Mighty vac again.
In the end if you wanted to go with a Motion Pro I would say avoid the mini. It worked really well on the points where I could use it. But get the traditional one and not the mini as you will have some points where you simply can't use it without additional work like pulling the right caliper and it won't work on the clutch. I know igofar also mentioned to replace the lines that come with the original one with some new lines from your local hardware store. Maybe someone will chime in with if it is an issue or not with the brake pistons when tilting up the left caliper.
Cost wise the two versions are about the same.
Here is the traditional one.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B001DDAECW
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0482-Mini-Bleeder/dp/B0077QSGFG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2
I went through and replaced the brake pads and did a full flush of the brake system on my 1300 a few days ago. In the past I used a Mighty Vac for all bleeds and flushes. Here is what I found in using this new tool.
First thing I noticed about this is that it can be a little hard to get it on the bleed nipple. I think the rubber seal is pretty tight which it probably needs to be and will likely break in over time a bit. Not a big deal. I started going through the brakes and came to the first issue. The top bleed point on the right front caliper. There is no way to get the tool on this point without removing the caliper. The nipple is too close to the fork and it isn't going on there. I then stopped and dug out the mighty vac for that point. The next issue came when I got to the point where you tip up the left caliper. Maybe I am doing something wrong here but with a mighty vac you are just pulling through fluid so you don't pump the brakes. With this you need to work the brake lever to push the fluid through the one way valve in the bleeder. The problem as I see it is won't the caliper pistons come out when the caliper is tipped up? Not wanting to fight to get the pistons pushed back again after already doing a pad change I just grabbed a couple of those wooden shims used for installing doors and windows in your house that I had in the shop and wedged them between the pads. I didn't try it without the shims in place but maybe someone else can chime in with that possible issue. The rest of the bleed points went fine. No issues connecting it to any point but I know igofar has mentioned he prefers the traditional motion pro bleeder over the mini because he can bleed the proportioning block without removing the plastic. Wasn't an issue for me this time as all the plastic was off. I typically bleed every spring when my bike is in this state of being ripped apart anyhow so it wasn't an issue. The bigger problem was the right front upper bleed point. One other comment was that I was doing this by my self. One thing that I couldn't do was see the line on the tool when bleeding the rear caliper and had a hard time seeing the left side. This is an issue because you want to be able to see if you are getting any bubbles. I did put teflon tape on all my bleed points back when I first used my mighty vac so I don't have the bubble issue on that. The trade off is that you are right there watching your fluid level so you are not likely to suck all your brake fluid out and have to start over. I have done that with the mighty vac.
:On to the next job. The clutch. Couldn't even use the Motion Pro on this. It would be a tight fit to get in there as the coolant overflow bottle is in the way. The other problem is that it is a 10mm not an 8mm like the brakes so the tool won't work even if you could get it in there. Pulled out the Mighty vac again.
In the end if you wanted to go with a Motion Pro I would say avoid the mini. It worked really well on the points where I could use it. But get the traditional one and not the mini as you will have some points where you simply can't use it without additional work like pulling the right caliper and it won't work on the clutch. I know igofar also mentioned to replace the lines that come with the original one with some new lines from your local hardware store. Maybe someone will chime in with if it is an issue or not with the brake pistons when tilting up the left caliper.
Cost wise the two versions are about the same.
Here is the traditional one.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B001DDAECW
