I replaced the front brake pads despite the reservoir screw (another thread). They were a bit of a squeeze, but they went in without too much difficulty. But now the front tire doesn't rotate freely without the pads rubbing. Is this normal? I bled off a little fluid but it doesn't seem to help.
New Brake Pads Rub
- Thread starter John Pearson
- Start date
Yes, I've rode it like that for 2 days now and they still rub. Yes the tire moves easily. I guess it's not to worry about. Thanks, Joe.
My new pads have always made some noise but it either goes away or I turn up the radio, can't remember which.. I think as long as they aren't sticking or acting funny you are okay. You might want to double check that you have them seated correctly - I remember doing that a few times after my first new set and thinking I'd screwed something up - but everything was fine.
You also might think about loosening up the pinch bolts on one side and bouncing the front wheel with the front brakes locked. This will ensure the rotors are centered. The procedure is in the shop manual.
The procedure to reseat the rotors to the pads seems to be the same on the VTX, but the VTX has a groove in the axle. The better procedure was to loosen the left pinch bolt, then move the axle in or out slightly while spinning the wheel and listening for when the disks didnt rub as much. It didnt take much to find the "sweet spot". I havent had the front wheel off my ST yet (will soon though), so not sure if this would work, but thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
The procedure to reseat the rotors to the pads seems to be the same on the VTX, but the VTX has a groove in the axle. The better procedure was to loosen the left pinch bolt, then move the axle in or out slightly while spinning the wheel and listening for when the disks didnt rub as much. It didnt take much to find the "sweet spot". I havent had the front wheel off my ST yet (will soon though), so not sure if this would work, but thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
- Messages
- 8,538
- Age
- 77
- Location
- Kingman, Arizona
- Bike
- 2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
- STOC #
- 004
Gotta add a couple double checks here. Did you clean the pistons before pushing them back in? Did you check the clearance on the left caliper, realtion to the disc?
If you did both of these and still ain't happy, the next step is to remove the calipers, remove the pistons, remove the seals, and clean the crud from the seal grooves. STick is waiting in the garage for new seals as we type.
If you did both of these and still ain't happy, the next step is to remove the calipers, remove the pistons, remove the seals, and clean the crud from the seal grooves. STick is waiting in the garage for new seals as we type.
George, I got to say that I prolly cut some corners. I've never changed brakes before so I was a bit intimidated about taking the calipers off. Plus I would have to wait 2 wks for seals. Plus, plus I screwed up the reservoir screw so I couldn't open the reservoir to remove or add fluid.
I sprayed brake cleaner as best I could without making too much mess, so I hope it did clean the pistons at least somewhat. The old brakes weren't that bad. There was a lot of pad left before the wear indicator. I guess that's why the new pads weren't too dificult to put in. Why did I change them? The right side squeaked and was wearing the disc abnormally (grooves). The old pads were EBC so I sprung for OEM replacements from Honda-line.
I sprayed brake cleaner as best I could without making too much mess, so I hope it did clean the pistons at least somewhat. The old brakes weren't that bad. There was a lot of pad left before the wear indicator. I guess that's why the new pads weren't too dificult to put in. Why did I change them? The right side squeaked and was wearing the disc abnormally (grooves). The old pads were EBC so I sprung for OEM replacements from Honda-line.
Blue STreak
Bob Meyer
George raises some good questions. If you pushed the piston back in with crud on them, they can hang up on the seals. One thing to check first. Take a short ride and apply and release the front brakes. Now come to a complete stop using ONLY the rear brake. Then check to see if the pads are still dragging.
If, like most people, you come to a stop using the front brake, the pads may not retract fully. But a little "kick back" from the spinning disk may cause them to retract when you're actually riding.
Also, as Horst suggests, check to see how hot they get when NOT in use. Ride around for a while using only the rear brake. If the front disks get hot, you've definitely got too much drag.
One thing about brake cleaner: it's designed to clean brake DISKS, not calipers. The stuff is very hard on rubber seals, so if you sprayed it on the pistons and got it up inside where the seals are, you could have problems down the road. I use only clean (but not necessarily new) brake fluid to clean the pistons.
If, like most people, you come to a stop using the front brake, the pads may not retract fully. But a little "kick back" from the spinning disk may cause them to retract when you're actually riding.
Also, as Horst suggests, check to see how hot they get when NOT in use. Ride around for a while using only the rear brake. If the front disks get hot, you've definitely got too much drag.
One thing about brake cleaner: it's designed to clean brake DISKS, not calipers. The stuff is very hard on rubber seals, so if you sprayed it on the pistons and got it up inside where the seals are, you could have problems down the road. I use only clean (but not necessarily new) brake fluid to clean the pistons.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
- Messages
- 8,538
- Age
- 77
- Location
- Kingman, Arizona
- Bike
- 2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
- STOC #
- 004
What Bob said.
I, at the very least, pump the pistons out til clean metal shows and scrub'em off with a little clean brake fluid and _green_ Scotch Pad.
I, at the very least, pump the pistons out til clean metal shows and scrub'em off with a little clean brake fluid and _green_ Scotch Pad.