Radiator clean up

4INer

4INer

Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
88
Location
Sebring Florida
Bike
05 ST 1300
I've pulled the radiator on my 05 in order to replace the thermostat and replace the clutch. While it's off I'd like to clean it up and maybe repaint. Im thinking AC coil cleaner followed by a light coat of heat resistant black paint. Thoughts? Suggestions?
 
Following this. My '05 radiator needs a good cleaning. That damn spring stuff from the road that clogs everything and turns into cement has made it really inefficient. Will be buying new hoses and clamps as I know what happens with hoses and clamps that are older than dirt. Why are those clamps sooooooo expensive?
Are you taking pics?
 
Jim C-G said:
Following this. My '05 radiator needs a good cleaning. That damn spring stuff from the road that clogs everything and turns into cement has made it really inefficient. Will be buying new hoses and clamps as I know what happens with hoses and clamps that are older than dirt. Why are those clamps sooooooo expensive?
Are you taking pics?
Click to expand...
Jim, are you considering the Breeze clamps or perhaps the heat shrink Gates clamps that @SupraSabre used? IIRC, the Breeze clamps from McMaster-Carr cost around $5 to $6 USD...but shipping in Canada will cost you dearly. A better question is why is shipping so expensive north of the border?
 
@SMSW I managed to find a local supplier of breeze type clamps in Calgary many years ago, think it was a truck part supplier, it took a bit of effort to find them but they are available in Canada
 
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Jim C-G said:
Following this. My '05 radiator needs a good cleaning. That damn spring stuff from the road that clogs everything and turns into cement has made it really inefficient. Will be buying new hoses and clamps as I know what happens with hoses and clamps that are older than dirt. Why are those clamps sooooooo expensive?
Are you taking pics?
Click to expand...
I haven’t taken pics, But I can. Hoses and clamps are a good idea. Mine look ok, but the are 15 years old... Might be a few days before I start the clean up. I’m removing the crankcase cover tomorrow to replace clutch components. And with everything shut downIll have to order some AC coil clearer. Hope it works....
 
I had this problem the year before last when my engine would start to overheat in hot weather due to the radiator being clogged up. I tried coil cleaner without success. I was told that it reacts with aluminium, but the painted surface may stop this reaction. After trying loads of things, I eventually bought a new radiator at over £500 and after the first season took it off to try and clean it while it wasn't too gunged up. I had limited success using wd40 spray and an old tooth brush (if you haven't got an old tooth brush, use the wife's, but don't tell her) using up and down strokes in line with the fins. I could use a bit of strength without displacing the fins. I got most of the stuff out.
I couldn't find an aftermarket radiator for the ST which surprised me for a very popular bike.
 
Kiltrochan2 said:
I tried coil cleaner without success. I was told that it reacts with aluminium...
Click to expand...
If you are referring to air conditioning system coil cleaner, I think it is highly unlikely that it reacts with aluminum, simply because 99.9% of air conditioning system evaporator and condenser coils have aluminum fins.

Having said that, I don't think that air conditioning coil cleaner would be the most effective choice for a motorcycle radiator. The AC coil cleaner is formulated to remove grease & dust from coils.

I successfully cleaned my ST 1300 radiator using a long-bristle brush (with reasonably soft bristles), dish detergent, and hot water. It took about an hour of patient work at the laundry room sink. Before I started in with the brush, I poured boiling water all over the radiator (entering from the back side), and then left the radiator to soak overnight in a sink full of hot water & dish detergent. I plugged up the two coolant entry holes before I soaked it, this to prevent debris from entering the radiator.

Another possible way of cleaning the radiator would be to take it to a radiator shop - there are lots of those shops out there. They have tanks that are specialized for this purpose. But, with COVID-19 self-isolation being an important consideration nowadays, that option might not be attractive these days.

You may also want to consider getting a fin comb to allow you to straighten out fins that have become bent due to rock or insect impacts. But, I don't know how well a fin comb would work on the concave front surface of the ST 1300 radiator... it might be necessary to get a metal fin comb rather than the more common (and less expensive) plastic ones.

Michael
 
First, apologies for not taking a before picture. It was dark this evening when I started, but I'll try to get a mid point pic tomorrow. I did some reading on automotive forums and it seems any good degreaser works great (foaming oven cleaner, bug remover, simple green, etc). Anyway Ive spritzed it down with simple green and will let it sit overnight then rinse in the AM. I've ordered new hoses and have a can of Eastwood High Temp Radiator Black Semigloss on its way too. I may even get a little anal and use a scribe to straighten out the few bent fins (hey I've got another month anyway right?) I'll post pics tomorrow and a pic after its finished. I may even post a few pics of all the other work I'm doing (except for the slave cylinder replacement and thermostat replacement that are already finished). Planning to replace the clutch tomorrow and then pull the fork tubes for rebuild.....
 
Hi all

Greetings from Scotland

Been reading all the threads, but have a few questions I hope you may be able to help with.

My bike is a ST1300A (2008 Model)with just over 18 000 miles. I tried to remove the radiator last night and surprisingly all the hose and clamps off easily, however I am struggling to separate the two black electric plugs from each other and from the tabs on the radiator. I don't want to force them too much and end up breaking them. I note there are two small pins/lugs that you would normally push in and pull the plug apart.
Can anyone advise if you need to twist these, pull them apart, apply some heat etc etc? I've tried to use some lube oil between the tab and the plug but they won't budge!!!

When painting the radiator, do you paint the fins too or mask these off to prevent possible paint build up and blockage?

Thanks in advance for your input.
 
These devices have two plastic tags which 'spring' to latch onto the other half of the connector or onto a metal tag - in this case on the radiator.

First remove the connector, then separate the two halves.

The connector has a rectangular sleeve on one side - a slot - which accomodates the metal tag on the radiator. This is about the width of the connector, but is quite thin metal. It has a square hole punched into it, into which the connector latches, to stop it falling off.

And there is a gotcha - the left hand tag faces down, the right hand one (radiator cap side) faces up. So working on the left hand side as an example, to remove the connector, it needs to be pulled down. Hang on - not yet.

With a flashlight (we have to say that on this forum, otherwise they set fire to their bikes in the USA if we say 'torch') look UP into the connector from beneath. There is a little tongue - the end of a bit of plastic close to the end of the metal tag. You have to move that away from the metal tag onto which the connector has been pushed. A small screwdriver pushed a little way up the correct side will release the clip and it will slip off downwards. On the other side, of the bike the corresponding connector pulls off upwards.

The release to separate the two halves then becomes obvious.

The only photo I have of one of these is after I managed to destroy the clip latch when I was trying to work out how to do it years back. The connector in the photo I have is cable tied to the metal tag on the radiator.

Here's a useful tip. Google 'ST1300 Radiator Fan' and show pictures. You'll find plenty of photos - some of which will show the half of the connector that slides onto the metal tag on the radiator. It gives you an idea of what you are looking at.

Here is one with a few photos - the seller of this item obviously couldn't work out how to release it - if you look at the photos, the solution has been to break the tab off the radiator and leave it in the connector !!

michigan-motorcycle.com

2003 03 Honda ST1300 Left Radiator Fan Motor Pan European S100779-61B

We are selling the Left Radiator Fan Motor for a 2003 Honda ST1300. The item bench tested good and is in good condition. (see pics).These parts are off of a non-running 2003 Honda ST1300 with 39430 miles on it. It may fit other models and years. If you are unsure of fitment, please contact your...
michigan-motorcycle.com michigan-motorcycle.com


1588166405504.png

The left end of the white line points to the horizontal tongue that has to be moved to release the connector. Usually move it away from the metal ta, which you should also be able to see in the same slot - but unfortunately not in this photo.

You might find it easier to do the right hand side first, as you will be looking down onto it rather than up.

1588166932090.png


Hope that helps - it's the best I can do at present.
 
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jfheath said:
These devices have two plastic tags which 'spring' to latch onto the other half of the connector or onto a metal tag - in this case on the radiator.

First remove the connector, then separate the two halves.

The connector has a rectangular sleeve on one side - a slot - which accomodates the metal tag on the radiator. This is about the width of the connector, but is quite thin metal. It has a square hole punched into it, into which the connector latches, to stop it falling off.

And there is a gotcha - the left hand tag faces down, the right hand one (radiator cap side) faces up. So working on the left hand side as an example, to remove the connector, it needs to be pulled down. Hang on - not yet.

With a flashlight (we have to say that on this forum, otherwise they set fire to their bikes in the USA if we say 'torch') look UP into the connector from beneath. There is a little tongue - the end of a bit of plastic close to the end of the metal tag. You have to move that away from the metal tag onto which the connector has been pushed. A small screwdriver pushed a little way up the correct side will release the clip and it will slip off downwards. On the other side, of the bike the corresponding connector pulls off upwards.

The release to separate the two halves then becomes obvious.

The only photo I have of one of these is after I managed to destroy the clip latch when I was trying to work out how to do it years back. The connector in the photo I have is cable tied to the metal tag on the radiator.

Here's a useful tip. Google 'ST1300 Radiator Fan' and show pictures. You'll find plenty of photos - some of which will show the half of the connector that slides onto the metal tag on the radiator. It gives you an idea of what you are looking at.

Here is one with a few photos - the seller of this item obviously couldn't work out how to release it - if you look at the photos, the solution has been to break the tab off the radiator and leave it in the connector !!

michigan-motorcycle.com

2003 03 Honda ST1300 Left Radiator Fan Motor Pan European S100779-61B

We are selling the Left Radiator Fan Motor for a 2003 Honda ST1300. The item bench tested good and is in good condition. (see pics).These parts are off of a non-running 2003 Honda ST1300 with 39430 miles on it. It may fit other models and years. If you are unsure of fitment, please contact your...
michigan-motorcycle.com michigan-motorcycle.com


1588166405504.png

The left end of the white line points to the horizontal tongue that has to be moved to release the connector. Usually move it away from the metal ta, which you should also be able to see in the same slot - but unfortunately not in this photo.

You might find it easier to do the right hand side first, as you will be looking down onto it rather than up.

1588166932090.png


Hope that helps - it's the best I can do at present.
Click to expand...
HI

Many thanks for your time, photos and advice which I'll give a try tonight.
The right hand plug came off easy, its the left one I have issues with. Thought it may have melted onto the metal tag, but with your description of using something to slide between the plug and tag, seems logical. Don't know why I didn't think of this before especially as you say the left plug needs to be pulled down, therefore there must be a locking pin etc holding it in place.

Thanks again
 
You're welcome

The left hand side should be identical to the right - its just upside down - but people do break the release catches off by accident. I couldn't believe the photos in the link I sent where the seller had just given up and broken the tag off the radiator, leaving it inside the connector. !
 
jfheath said:
You're welcome

The left hand side should be identical to the right - its just upside down - but people do break the release catches off by accident. I couldn't believe the photos in the link I sent where the seller had just given up and broken the tag off the radiator, leaving it inside the connector. !
Click to expand...

Got the radiator out tonight by doing as you suggested, again many thanks.
Unfortunately the small top most hose that sits under the Radiator cap broke off. I think this is where some coolant may have been leaking from, so will see if I can find someone who can weld or braze this small piece of pipe back on.
 
I just watched a video last night, and they were giving a tip for cleaning your radiator (the inside of it) and your cooling system. It is on youtube, on the "CanyonChasers" channel.
Once they purge the radiator and cooling system, they fill it back with a solution of half water (demineralized or distilled water) and half vinegar. They let it soak for a while, purge it back again, and then refill it with a new coolant solution.
It reminds me, many years ago, when I was kid, we used to put old dark one cents in a bowl, with a bit of water and vinegar. After a moment, they where as shinny as new ones.
I also wonder if a product like CLR could be used to remove the rust and other deposit inside a radiator ?

Here is the link for the video.
How to Flush the Radiator on your Motorcycle and Change the Coolant
 
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jfheath said:
You're welcome

The left hand side should be identical to the right - its just upside down - but people do break the release catches off by accident. I couldn't believe the photos in the link I sent where the seller had just given up and broken the tag off the radiator, leaving it inside the connector. !
Click to expand...
Hi! While removing the rider's left connector plug from the radiator tag, the tag itself snapped off the radiator. I was able to remove the stage from inside the plug, but now the connector has nowhere to attach back to the radiator. Any thoughts on how to anchor that connector so that it does not get sucked up and cut by the fan?
 
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