Hello to all I have 02 st 1100, no abs or other systems. removed rear caliper for seal replacement . attempt to bleed after installing is not working . tapping the banjo fittings and lots of pedal pumping provided some air bubbles ,but I cant get the pedal to firm up at all . I m certain that the fittings are all tight enough . any help appreciated Thanks
rear brake bleeding issues
- Thread starter Frankly
- Start date
Purchase an old style metal oiler can with a ridged spout at the hardware store, along with some 3/16 x 5/16 dia. clear tubing.
cut a section about 6 inches long and attach it to the spout of the oiler can. Fill up the can with Dot 4 brake fluid.
Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder nipples (in proper sequence) and open the master cylinder, making sure its only about half way full.
Crack the bleeder open just enough that when you pull the trigger on the oil can, it moves the fluid into the bleeder.
Watch for bubbles up top, and make sure you don't over fill it. Go slowly, and have someone keep an eye on the master cylinder level.
This is a reverse bleed, and will "push" the air upward in a natural direction into the master cylinder housing.
Once you've done this and no more bubbles appear, do your normal bleed.
I would suggest using a motion pro hydraulic bleeder (check valve) instead of a mity vac. It will be easier and have less chance of sucking more air into the system.
You can also use a syringe, however, with that, there is a change it will blow off the nipple and get brake fluid everywhere.
I find the oil can much easier and safer.
Let us know what happens.
Igofar
cut a section about 6 inches long and attach it to the spout of the oiler can. Fill up the can with Dot 4 brake fluid.
Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder nipples (in proper sequence) and open the master cylinder, making sure its only about half way full.
Crack the bleeder open just enough that when you pull the trigger on the oil can, it moves the fluid into the bleeder.
Watch for bubbles up top, and make sure you don't over fill it. Go slowly, and have someone keep an eye on the master cylinder level.
This is a reverse bleed, and will "push" the air upward in a natural direction into the master cylinder housing.
Once you've done this and no more bubbles appear, do your normal bleed.
I would suggest using a motion pro hydraulic bleeder (check valve) instead of a mity vac. It will be easier and have less chance of sucking more air into the system.
You can also use a syringe, however, with that, there is a change it will blow off the nipple and get brake fluid everywhere.
I find the oil can much easier and safer.
Let us know what happens.
Igofar
ST1100Y
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BeST investment in my shed:
No fumbling, no fancy language...
Clutch, standard brakes, linked brakes, CBS...
No fumbling, no fancy language...
Clutch, standard brakes, linked brakes, CBS...
Speed bleeder (website by that name) not only sells a bleed nipple with the same type of one way valve, but also their own formulated thread sealant that prevents air bubbles from leaking around the nipple when it is loosened. I put their aftermarket nipples on another bike (3 required) and they are great, however the ST requires far too many - I'd rather spend that money on something else. Their thread sealant however, is a good idea. My only quibble with it is how does one apply it while preventing the brake fluid from leaking out by pressing your finger over the caliper's bleed nipple hole? If you have a helper, use their finger for that purpose so you can clean the nipple, apply the sealant, allow it to dry, replace it and then you can find another helper, the first having been frustrated and left.
Mission accomplished ! had a vacume bleeder thing stored in my shed , did the job. The original problem was sticky caliper compressed air didnt push the pucks out , had to reinstall caliper , bled the brake and did what I should have and pushed them out with the brake pedal . Thanks to all who offered advice .
I curse the previous repairperson who failed to replace the o ring under the bleeder screw ...
What o-ring is that ?
BTW, I have good luck getting stubborn air out of the system by reverse bleeding. Get a syringe, and attach a small diameter hose. Suck clean brake fluid into the syringe and flush the tubing. Then attach the tubing to the bleeder screw and loosen the bleeder screw and displace the fluid in the syringe into the system. Of course make sure the MC reservoir isn't too full so it doesn't overflow.
BTW, I have good luck getting stubborn air out of the system by reverse bleeding. Get a syringe, and attach a small diameter hose. Suck clean brake fluid into the syringe and flush the tubing. Then attach the tubing to the bleeder screw and loosen the bleeder screw and displace the fluid in the syringe into the system. Of course make sure the MC reservoir isn't too full so it doesn't overflow.