My bike is a 2001 ST1100 ABS that has sat over 10 years. The front brakes apply and release. The rear doesn't do anything when I try the foot or hand brake. I have since replaced all the pads which seem to have even wear. I cleaned and pushed Pistons in to replace the pads. I did crack the bleeder valve to get the rear piston to go in. I have reviewed the sequence and am going to flush the brakes. My question is do you think there is an issue with the rear master cylinder or will I get lucky enough that a flush will get it going again?
Rear brake issue?
- Thread starter Neiko1967
- Start date
Sitting for 10 years is really, really bad for any fluid/rubber system... I wouldn't be surprised if you had to rebuild the entire brake system. First thing would be to thoroughly flush the front and rear brakes, and clean the pistons. Also, you have an SMC up front, and while the ST11 SMC is not known for failure, sitting for 10 years hasn't helped. You need to actuate this and see if it is releasing. I would do these first and go from there. Good luck, you're going to need it!
Yes, definitely get a manual if you're going to do any maintenance on it. Activate the SMC by moving it up in the direction of the SMC centerline. When riding, the SMC is activated during braking by a slight rotation of the brake assembly, which the SMC is attached. Put it on the centerstand and activate the SMC. The rear wheel should be locked with the SMC activated, and free to rotate when unactivated. You can also see the top of the SMC move and return as you push up and release. The real life test is to ride the bike, brake hard with the front brakes a few times, and make sure the rear wheel is not dragging afterward. The only issue here is if your rear caliper is not working right, i.e. locks up, you might get a false positive on the SMC.
Click the ST1100 Info link below for more info on the brake system.
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You might want to dismantle the 3 way pivot casting - behind the shroud on the left hand fork leg.
It contains needle roller bearings and is sandwiched between two plates. The whole assembly is probably rusted up. Take note as to which way round it fits. From memory (which I wouldn't rely on), one hole is bolted the the fork leg, one to the caliper bracket, one to the SMC plunger. Make sure it is cleaned up, needle rollers are free to move and greased and the whole assembly moves to push the smc plunger up when the caliper bracket is moved up (?) when the front brake grabs the brake disc / rotor.
It contains needle roller bearings and is sandwiched between two plates. The whole assembly is probably rusted up. Take note as to which way round it fits. From memory (which I wouldn't rely on), one hole is bolted the the fork leg, one to the caliper bracket, one to the SMC plunger. Make sure it is cleaned up, needle rollers are free to move and greased and the whole assembly moves to push the smc plunger up when the caliper bracket is moved up (?) when the front brake grabs the brake disc / rotor.
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I've done it by rotating the caliper.
Smudgemo
Intermodal Man of Mystery
Fluid isn't expensive to just try flushing first, but my most recent 11 had goo behind the pistons when I rebuilt the rear caliper. I think it was sitting for 5-6 years. Not hard to clean out during a rebuild, but I doubt a simple flush would have done much.
My memory is sucking at my age.lol. I thought you did left upper then lower and next was right upper lower. After getting them done and double checking the rear I realized I need to do L upper,R upper,L lower and then R lower before the rear so off to get more fluid.lol. On a plus note I do feel resistance on the rear again.
Well before I figured I got the sequence wrong I had rear brake pedal. After trying to do it right my last bleeder valve seems like it's plugged and I have no rear brake pedal again. I get about 6-7 inches of fluid in the tube with the Mytevac pumped up to 25psi and holding. It seems the rear front bleeder had same issue but broke free.
Well I decided to go back and do it from the beginning but this time manually instead of the vacuum. It bugged me that I had rear brake when I initially did it wrong. The vacuum fittings was letting air in so I wasn't confident with it. When I got the rear brake pedal pumped up it eventually built up pressure again. I did remove the valve and it was nice and clean so I am guessing something was plugging it but is fine now. I took it for a little jaunt as it was going to start raining soon. Front and back brakes worked and seemed good with no spongy feeling. Nice part was no ABS light flashing.
"How do I actuate the SMC? I really need to purchase a manual."
Here you go!
www.st-owners.com
Here you go!
Sold - ST1100 Honda Service Manual -**SOLD | For Sale
It is the 'blue one' pictured below - $30 + shipping and it is in good condition. That's a little cheaper that the ones they are selling at this link ;) - 1991 Honda ST1100 & ST1100A Service Manual (diyrepairmanuals.com)