rear tire LEAK

Moosulkwanman2

Moosulkwanman2

Joined
Mar 10, 2024
Messages
9
Age
70
Location
Mississippi
A while back i put a set of Roodsmart 4s on, then before very long caught a screw in the rear, yes it leaked so tried to plug the hole, i it lasted a while but started to LEAK again, replaced it, wouldn't hold air, put some fix-a-flat in there, nope no good didn't hold. Ok so i got a new tire on the way and yes put it on but was wondering if any yall riders ever PATCHED AND PLUGGED a rear tire and rode it for a while? Considering giving it a try on that old carcass. Just to see, but likely not, PLEASE ADVISE. Oh and a question- the front roadsmart has a flat band down the center then seems pretty steep as it rounds off to the sides, is that normal? Doesn't seen worn badly , i still have tread?
( i'm thinking don't waste the time and effort stay safe on here tire !)
 
Moosulkwanman2 said:
wondering if any yall riders ever PATCHED AND PLUGGED a rear tire and rode it for a while?
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Several decades back, I was on a different forum with a different bike. I'd had a 20 year hiatus of riding, so trusted the "experts". Like you, I got a puncture in the rear tire. When I asked the question if it could be plugged or not, the answers were emphatically "NO". Some "experts" even said they wouldn't even ride the bike to the dealership to get a new tire put on.

Fast forward a couple decades and many miles later, and yes, I would patch that tire and ride it till the tread was gone.

I realized those naysayers rode about a thousand miles a year. That spreads the cost of a new tire out to once a year and isn't that hard to swallow. The first time I tried Slime, I had four punctures in the rear tire and rode it for 14,000 miles.

Chris
 
The issue is that a bike shop likely won’t do a proper internal patch on the tire, citing it’s better to just replace the tire (liability reasons). I had a rear tire on the Silverwing that I plugged 2x, worked for a bit then started leaking rather quickly on a ride. I turned around, got home, and just bought a new tire. Plugs can work and work well (and even last the rest of the life of the tire), but I guess it depends on the hole size and pathway through the tire carcass. If I were to plug a tire and have it leak, I would likely just change the tire. If you’re inclined to try an internal patch, you need the right tools (not only the internal patch, but the rubber cement and the grinder wheel to carve off some of the rubber inside the tire around the hole (also, the roller tool to really affix the patch in place).

For the tire you describe, if it’s more or less flat spotted down the middle, it’s partially worn and likely not worth saving. Also, with the Fix a Flat in the tire, it’s likely going to be a pain getting that off the interior rubber to properly apply a patch.
 
thanks guys, I know that if i did go to the trouble of patching and putting it on ($40 at a tire shop i thought was a good deal, plus the crap for the patch $30? = $70+!! ) would be worried and nervous for a blow out any second on the road, NOT GOOD FOR MY HARMONY!! new tire will be here saturday,, maybe get lucky and dodge that screw this go' round. But will save the old tire and patch it, keep it as a back up? damn thing got plenty of tread chaps my but ttttt
 
yep sometimes they hold good, this one has worked out s good bit i know i had trimmed it off but was hanging out and frayed, replaced it still no good
 
I have never had a plugged tire fail. A couple of things I do differently are:

I have the plug on the tool ready to go, then I ream the hole a second time with glue on the reamer.

I glue and insert the plug, leave it alone for a while to dry, then trim it flush with a blade or cutter.

Only then do I inflate the tire to full pressure, then check it for leaking with water or something.
 
Larry Fine said:
I have never had a plugged tire fail. A couple of things I do differently are:

I have the plug on the tool ready to go, then I ream the hole a second time with glue on the reamer.

I glue and insert the plug, leave it alone for a while to dry, then trim it flush with a blade or cutter.

Only then do I inflate the tire to full pressure, then check it for leaking with water or something.
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This is actually good practice, otherwise you’re expecting the plug to seal immediately (and the cement to dry immediately and hold air at normal tire pressure). When you’re on the road, you want to get going ASAP but might be better to just wait a while after the repair then reinflate the tire.
 
Moosulkwanman2 said:
have 90 elbow metal bolt down stem, no leak there thanks
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The part that might leak is the valve stem on the inside of that 90 degree stem. A simple bit of putting some saliva on the opening will show if your problem is simply a loose stem or a puncture.

I would keep your old tire. Patch it to have it ready to use. And then use it later when your riding is local and not on a trip.

You might consider a Rabaconda tire changer someday. It's probably one of the most user-friendly tire changers on the market and doesn't require much space to store when you're done. It'll get you away from depending on a dealership to do the work. I understand why the dealership wants $40 for patching your tire. It takes time and time is money. But what you're asking them to do is something I did in high school. It isn't rocket science.

Chris
 
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