Removing cooling hoses

cagou64

cagou64

Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
63
Age
65
Location
France - SW - Pyrénées Atlantiques
Bike
ST1300 - 2004
Hi everybody,
It's a long time I didn't came on the forum to post.

In relation with the subject open by justin Sabre "replacing all hoses and clamps",
I had a small leak of cooling liquid, removing throttle body , I saw small hints in the aerea of a water joint. Replacing the joint and before setting everything in order I had the idea to change water hoses, in relation with the age of my bike, model of 2004 and something like 88 000 miles (140 000 km).

Questions:
1- do I need to change clapmps or may I re-use old ones ?
2- I do you manage to remove the hoses running from the waterpump cover (front of the engine) to the oil cooler (back of the engine just after the oil filter)
in the view number 1, but also number 2 for the hose returning to the SE Thermal valve ?

Thanks for your cooperation
Circuit refroidissement annote.jpg
 
I make a habit of replacing hose clamps along with the hoses. Re-using clamps is little different than reusing lock washers. Why risk having to revisit leaks in a difficult to access area.
 
I replaced all the hoses at 170,000 kilometers. I re-used the original clamps and then rode the bike an additional 121,000 kilometers. In order to remove the hoses going to and from the oil cooler I used a long pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers. The jaws of the pliers are 90 degrees to the handles.

To hasten the removal of the hoses at the oil cooler I carefully slit the ends of the hoses with a razor knife.
 
If you have the tupperware off, and you are replacing all of the hoses, there is a plastic T on the right side just forward of the cylinders. If this fails while riding, all the coolant will be dumped in a minute or two. This plastic part does fail, especially with age. A number of us have made a T up of barbed hose fittings and a threaded block (all parts usually brass), some have found premade T's at larger hardware purveyors. I think McMaster-Carr might have some fittings but shipping a small part to France from the US would be prohibitive. Note that not all of the arms of the 'T' are the same size.
 
cagou64 said:
do I need to change clamps or may I re-use old ones
Click to expand...

When I did the hoses on my 1100 I replaced all the clamps. I'm not 100% sure that they needed to be replaced, but given the amount of time it takes to access them in general imagine trying to tighten a leaking clamp or to replace a failed one at the side of the road when you're 1,000 km away from home. Also, if you're traveling with friends then everyone is held up while you struggle to fix an issue. Cheap insurance to replace them when everything is open.
 
Worm clamps rarely fail and rarely just up and allow a leak of any significance. First a weep, then a seep, then a leak. Every ST1300 on the planet that has accumulated more than 20 or 30,000 miles is weeping coolant. It weeps and seeps a long time before the first drop of coolant hits the garage floor.

If an owner pays attention to the coolant level in the tank it should be apparent when a significant seep has progressed and when he has the fairing off for regular maintenance and just looking around it’s is easy to tend to any weeping or seeping long before it’s a problem.
 
Hi!
Thanks to all for so many advices and tips, The idea for using 90° needle pliers, being succesfull is very interesting, I agree also with the idea of preventive maintenance, specialy when all the tupperware is already removed, it should avoid close removing of the throttle body after this current maintenance.
Not sure to understand the way you made your home made "T", SMSW, is it kind of material you use for plumbing or gardening ? anyway thanks to care me about the fact all diametres are not the same!
 
cagou64 said:
Not sure to understand the way you made your home made "T", SMSW, is it kind of material you use for plumbing or gardening ? anyway thanks to care me about the fact all diametres are not the same!
Click to expand...
Have a look at the text and picture in the below post.

I think I have a leak | ST1300-Leaks

Is this a problem :rofl1:. Not sure which connection just yet but I'm getting closer. I really don't think one can get enough time under the throttle bodies.
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
Good day
Many thanks Andrew for this link, I had not the oportunity to discover it, many interesting points, suggesting me also questions about the water pump and the matter of depth ?
anyway I have the informations for the "T" and I posted questions for the depth in the link you refered
 
SMSW said:
If you have the tupperware off, and you are replacing all of the hoses, there is a plastic T on the right side just forward of the cylinders. If this fails while riding, all the coolant will be dumped in a minute or two. This plastic part does fail, especially with age. A number of us have made a T up of barbed hose fittings and a threaded block (all parts usually brass), some have found premade T's at larger hardware purveyors. I think McMaster-Carr might have some fittings but shipping a small part to France from the US would be prohibitive. Note that not all of the arms of the 'T' are the same size.
Click to expand...
I no longer have an ST1300 to look at but from the cooling system diagram in the SM isn't the T plumbed into the thermal valve bypass to control idle mixture via the starter valves? When the coolant temperature is approximately 180 degrees the thermostat closes off the bypass and a leak at the tee would not dump coolant. It would however leak profusely when the engine was cold. I could have it wrong though.
 
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Just want to pass on information. Go to a hydraulic repair/ service shop. They carry a large range of fitting. Take a sample of what your are trying to do. My son taught me this trick, carburetor cleaner works as great lubricant for install the hoses. It dries right up and locks everything in place.
For your info.
 
dduelin said:
I no longer have an ST1300 look at but from the cooling system diagram in the SM isn't the T plumbed into the thermal valve bypass to control idle mixture via the starter valves? When the coolant temperature is approximately 180 degrees the thermostat closes off the bypass and a leak at the tee would not dump coolant. It would however leak profusely when the engine was cold. I could have it wrong though.
Click to expand...
I honestly don't know - I never had a problem with mine, and I confess to repeating what other's have said here.
 
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