Ok, here's something I've wondered about for years: the manual calls for replacing the sealing washer on the oil drain plug every time you do an oil change. Is that really necessary? I confess I've never done it, and I've never had a leaking drain plug. Am I missing anything important?
replace sealing washer on oil drain plug?
- Thread starter Bike-writer
- Start date
I change my washer once in a while, but not every time. I do torque the bolt.
I inspect them every time I change oil. Pull it off the bolt and examine both surfaces for damage, replace it if there is, clean the bolt and washer if not. Don't forget to clean the mating surface and threads on crank case. Inspect the shoulder of the bolt for damage. Torquing the bolt up with debris between the sealing surface is not a good idea. Small dirt attracting seeps is about the worse you can expect unless you forget to tighten the bolt back up. If that prospect bothers you, keep things clean and always keep a spare washer or two and a bolt on hand just in case.
You can probably get away with re-using them, but crush washers are cheap; I replace them (crankcase drain and rear end drain) every time. I keep a few in the spare parts drawer. If you look at the old one (if it was properly torqued,) you'll see some deformity. That's why they call them "crush" washers...
Uncle Phil
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300,000+ miles across three ST1100s and never changed one. As was said, do what you are comfortable with. ;-)
76,000 miles on mine still original washer!!! But I don't over tighten it either!!!
I just changed my oil pan with a used one. Drain plug on the used one had no washer whatsoever! I have looked into annealing the crush washer but in this case I replaced with new (the first time I have ever done this). What DID surprise me was how low the force to tighten pan bolts and drain plug to recommended values. I am pretty confident in my 'torque sensitivity' when hand tightening (been many many years since I stripped any threads) but I must admit that I would have tightened beyond recommended value without a torque wrench.
BakerBoy
It's all small stuff.
'Crush' is a misnomer--it doesn't crush. The washers remain as ductile as when new, and its ductility is what allows it to flex to seal the joint when properly torqued. The only reason to replace one is if it has been scratched, has had grit pinched into the bolted joint (so it has circumferential grooves ground into it from tightening the drain bolt), if nicked, or otherwise gotten mechanically bent or tweaked by something other than being pressed between a clean drain plug and a clean mating surface on the pan. If used properly, the washers can be reused over and over (I flip mine over every time). But they're also cheap and easy to replace if that salves your conscience.
Easiest way to verify the washer: inspect for oil drips around the plug before removing the plug for an oil change. It is normal to have a slight oily dust. But if it is slightly wet (with oil), definitely worth changing the washer.
Easiest way to verify the washer: inspect for oil drips around the plug before removing the plug for an oil change. It is normal to have a slight oily dust. But if it is slightly wet (with oil), definitely worth changing the washer.
I don't know which manual you're using, but mine (2003 - 2011) says on P. 3-14, "Check that the sealing washer on the drain bolt is in good condition, and replace if necessary. Install and tighten the drain bolt."
I just check mine, and replace when necessary.
The photo in the shop manual has a symbol denoting use of a new washer.
I can see a slight deformation of my old washers, and yes, I use a torque wrench every time.
Would you expect the dealer to use a new one if you were paying for an oil change?
OK, enough time wasted here...
I can see a slight deformation of my old washers, and yes, I use a torque wrench every time.
Would you expect the dealer to use a new one if you were paying for an oil change?
OK, enough time wasted here...
I see you live in B.C. If I ever run into you I'll give you a hand full,I was givin a bag of 100 or so.I change it every time because I can,however if you torque them to the proper spec they will last a long time,over torque tends to deform them
I change them, on everything. I will concede that it is probably overkill, but why not, they are cheap and plentiful. I had a long time BMW mechanic advise me to do this along with using a torque wrench to help avoid stripped fasteners on my old Airhead. It worked, so I maintained the habit.
Cycle Gear has 14mm crush washers by the box for about $4.
Never changed them ...
OK, it looks like this thread has about played out, so I would like to ask: Does anyone use nylon washers instead of the aluminum OEM types? I have used these on oil plugs of other bikes and they work great without applying as much torque.
Nylon will distort under pressure and may loosen your drain plug if sufficient friction is lost.
Some plastics will work fine. Nylon works/distorts/compresses under load. If the drain bolt is tightened enough, the nylon washer can even split.
I have a box of Harbor Freight copper washers for cheap.
I tried to buy some non-OEM washers. I found them. And, I also found the price to be 100% more expensive than the OEM. I was dumb-founded.
I also checked the local Honda car dealer. They sell the same washer. I think (I'm not certain) that the washer at the car dealer was more than at my local Honda motorcycle dealer.