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The Spillway in Northville helped create Great Sacandaga Lake in 1930. (Photos by the author and Carla Kolbe)
Fulton County, New York, is just 60 miles northwest of the state capital Albany, but it sure feels out of the way. The southern gateway to the Adirondack Mountains, Fulton County is known as the Land of 44 Lakes, so boating, paddling, and swimming are popular. Other draws include hiking, bicycling, RV and tent camping, cultural events, farm-to-table dining, wineries, breweries, distilleries, skiing, snowmobiling, and of course, motorcycling.
I spent three days exploring Fulton County on my BMW F 900 XR in the area around Great Sacandaga Lake. I found entertaining roads, natural beauty, good eats, and a satisfying taste of local culture.
Scan QR codes above or click Route 1, Route 2, or Route 3 to view routes on REVER
“We appreciate what we have here,” said Carla Kolbe, Fulton County tourism coordinator. She’s also a small business owner and active member of the Northville community. I met Carla at the Fulton County Visitors Center in Vail Mills, and she quickly proved herself a great resource.
“It’s rural and down-to-earth, the way folks here choose to be,” Carla explained. “Beyond our few small towns, Fulton County is mostly wilderness and 44 lakes. It’s all great to explore. If you’re interested in roads less traveled, there are tight-knit communities here with a slower pace of life than more populated and commercial New York locales.”
Carla’s first suggestion was a run to Caroga Lake. On a map, the backroads there looked curvy, so I pointed my BMW north on SR-30. Just north of Northville, I turned left onto Benson Road, which became County Road 125 and then CR 112. The ride to Caroga Lake was a delight, with smooth tar, ample curves and elevation changes, and wilderness views. Traffic was scant.
Sunset over Great Sacandaga Lake, as seen from Sports Island Pub.
Reaching State Route 10, I went left toward Sherman’s Park, formerly an amusement park on the lakeshore and now home to the Caroga Arts Collective. The organization hosts a renowned summer music festival featuring mostly classical music, with occasional jazz, bluegrass, pop, and rock.
Since I enjoyed the ride out to Caroga Lake so much, I reversed course to Northville. On the way, I got my first good look at Great Sacandaga Lake, the largest of the 44 lakes. “Great Sacandaga Lake is our biggest attraction,” Carla explained, “and there’s incredible history that lies beneath.”
This little piggie was at Brower Family Farm in Mayfield.
In 1930, families who had lived for generations in small valley communities were uprooted. The Sacandaga River was dammed, and the land these people had owned was flooded to create a reservoir and flood basin. While one can envision progress in flood protection and water resources, it’s hard to overlook the sacrifice of small-town residents nearly a century ago. In some places, treelined streets, building foundations, and other signs of the former towns are still visible under the lake’s surface.
I had a view of Great Sacandaga Lake from my room at the Inn at the Bridge (see sidebar below). This restored Victorian home was a quiet and comfortable refuge during my stay in Fulton County. From there, I set out to explore Northville on foot.
Built around 1900, this carousel was brought to Sherman’s Amusement Park in Caroga Lake in the mid-1930s.
“Northville is a rural, small town,” Carla told me earlier. “The lack of big-box stores here is part of the appeal.” Along Main Street I found the oldest 5 & 10 cent store in the U.S. and a hardware store that’s been in business since 1867, plus restaurants, a farm store, an ice cream shop, and more. Later I enjoyed chatting with locals over dinner at Timeless Tavern, where the clocks have no hands (really) and the rooms for rent upstairs reportedly have paranormal residents.
My favorite ride on this trip was around the northeastern arm of Great Sacandaga Lake. Soon after sunrise, I started south on Northville’s Main Street and crossed the Spillway, a small dam built in 1930 as part of the reservoir project. I turned right on Seven Hills Road and rolled through dense woods with a strong aroma of pine. After merging into White Birch Road, I turned left at Sinclair Road and soon rolled onto North Shore Road. With elevation changes, a mix of banked and off-camber curves, and infrequent intersections, North Shore Road was highly entertaining.
Established in 1907, the oldest five-and-dime store in America is in Northville.
Near the top of the lake, I stopped at Hadley Overlook for a view of the Conklingville Dam. In 1930, the Sacandaga River’s natural course was altered by this earthen dam, allowing the valley upstream to flood, creating Great Sacandaga Lake. At the overlook, I met Tom Pittsley of Centerville, Massachusetts, riding a Harley-Davidson Street Glide. As we shared the view, I asked what brought him to Fulton County.
“I’m on my first overnight motorcycle trip alone,” Tom said. Turns out he was making his way to Maine, where his son lives, to meet friends and continue riding there. Cape Cod to Maine…via the Adirondacks? Tom likes to ride! “I left the Cape to escape the tourists,” he explained. “I really like it here with the open space and not so many people. And the riding has been great.”
Cruising along Overlook Road near Hadley, with Great Sacandaga Lake just beyond the trees.
When Tom continued down North Shore Road, I cut across Conklingville Dam, stopping to enjoy the view from the far side along Overlook Road. When I arrived at South Shore Road, I turned right and enjoyed more relaxed curves than those on the north side.
I continued past the village of Fish House and on to the town of Broadalbin, where I stopped at Broadalbin Diner. I was enticed by that day’s breakfast special: All Berry Waffles. They were covered with fresh blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, and a dollop of whipped cream. Delicious!
A quiet morning at a marina in Northville.
Returning to Northville, I explored the neighborhood that’s over the bridge and south on County Road 152. Before the reservoir was created, this was Sacandaga Park, with an amusement park on the lakeshore. Large sporting events were held on an island in the Sacandaga River (now under water), where a grandstand and ball field were accessed by a footbridge and a small train. Down at the end of Houseman Street, I found Northampton Beach Campground, with tent sites and a sandy beach.
Back on Riverside Drive in Sacandaga Park, I ran into Carla and her friendly dog, Taco. Carla pointed out two noteworthy establishments there.
Early morning fog along Great Sacandaga Lake.
Vic’s Tavern is a local hangout that owner Vic Marshall described as a “biker-hiker bar.” He’s a motorcycle guy who shared bits of the establishment’s colorful 100-year history. Groucho Marx enjoyed coming here, and Charlton Heston danced here with a woman who still lives nearby. Today there are big-screen TVs and a menu featuring Vic’s own pit barbecue. If you’re looking for a welcoming, small-town dive bar with food, this is the place.
Four doors down is Sport Island Pub, run by the fourth generation of the Lanzi family and perched above the sandy beach. Boaters can pull up to the dock; riders can park on the street. I returned to Sport Island Pub that evening to enjoy supper with Carla and her husband, Buddy.
Conklingville Dam is at the northern tip of Great Sacandaga Lake.
Yes, I love riding a great road in both directions, so the next morning I reversed course around Great Sacandaga Lake. This time I crossed Batchellerville Bridge and turned left onto South Shore Road. Fog lingered along the shore, but blue sky occasionally peeked through. In the early morning quiet, South Shore Road revealed homes of the kind that make my wife say, “Oh, that would do!”
I’d been gradually gaining elevation, and fog again surrounded me. Beyond Edinburg, my GPS showed West Mountain Road just ahead. Since I rarely pass up a chance to see where a “Mountain Road” goes, I eased right. The road went uphill, and in short order I emerged from the fog to find brilliant sun and a bluebird sky. What a breathtaking change! But the road started giving back the elevation, and soon I was fogged in again.
There are many places in Fulton County where you can stop to enjoy views of the lakes and mountains.
West Mountain Road blended into Hamilton Avenue in the town of Corinth, where I pointed the XR north on State Route 9N. I bore left on Old Corinth Road and crossed the Hadley Bow Bridge. The Sacandaga River is a Hudson River tributary, and this is where the two rivers meet. I banged a left onto Rockwell Street, which quickly becomes North Shore Road. A few traces of fog remained as I hugged the river down to the Stewart’s Bridge hydroelectric plant, where water released from the lake into the Hudson River creates power.
Keeping the lakeshore to my left, I angled south. Two turkeys with a sizeable clutch of poults were busy foraging in the grassy gutter along the roadside. Better next to the road than on it, right? More turkey families appeared in this stretch of road up to the Hadley Overlook. From there, I savored yesterday’s delicious curves and undulations from the opposite direction.
Bridge Street connects State Route 30 to the town of Northville.
Back in Northville, I joined Carla and her granddaughter at ADK Blend, a creative cafe on Main Street. We talked about the rewarding time I’d had exploring Fulton County. With another good meal in my belly, it was time to head east toward my home in Massachusetts. But there was one more stop to make.
I rode back to Broadalbin to visit Adirondack Harley-Davidson (see sidebar below). It’s the largest – and if my search is correct, the only – authorized Harley dealership within Adirondack Park. I found a big, modern shop full of motorcycles and riding accessories, staffed by motorcycle people who welcomed me, set me up with a test ride, and even pointed me to a great motorcycle-themed coffee shop on my route home. Fulton County has much to offer motorcycle riders interested in an out-of-the-way area to explore. If you’re willing to look, there’s so much to find on roads less traveled.
See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.
LODGING SPOTLIGHT: Inn at the Bridge
While exploring Fulton County, I spent two nights at the Inn at the Bridge in Northville, which overlooks the bridge where the Sacandaga River widens into Great Sacandaga Lake. The inn is a renovated Victorian home offering travelers updated rooms with a private bath, air conditioning, and a flat-screen TV. First-floor common spaces retain original architectural features, including beautiful wood floors, fireplaces, and all the charm of an antique home. Complimentary coffee is available in the bistro area 24/7. Six individual rooms sleep two each, and if you’re traveling in a group, you can rent the entire property. There’s plenty of flat, off-street parking, plus a fire pit, gazebo, and wrap-around front porch with views of the lake. It’s an easy walk to downtown Northville.
SIDEBAR: Adirondack Harley-Davidson
This big, modern dealership, located on State Route 29 in Broadalbin, the southern gateway to the Adirondack Mountains, is a worthwhile stop for anyone interested in motorcycles and a destination stop for Harley faithful. ADK H-D has its own Harley Owners Group chapter and hosts garage nights, food trucks, group rides, charity rides, and more. I stopped in and met Ken Williams, the general manager, and several members of his team. “We work on any kind of bike and regularly help the traveler,” Ken told me. “Fix a flat? Every time. We’ve even picked people up. And we know the texture of the Adirondacks, so ask us for ideas on routes, places to eat, and things to see and do. We’re here to help our fellow riders, the whole motorcycle family, no matter what they ride.”
New York Motorcycle Ride Resources
Scott “Bones” Williams engages readers on motorcycle touring, gear, and culture. His writing conveys his love of speed and motion, preference for roads less taken, and role as goodwill ambassador.
The post Roads Less Traveled: Fulton County, New York Motorcycle Ride appeared first on Rider Magazine.
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