Bike been in shed over winter re charged battery fresh fuel ect fired her up won’t start got a spark on plugs tried again still won’t start, any clues please
ST 1300 Honda 2006 won't start
- Thread starter Chic
- Start date
New charged battery used.
Thank you for having me by the way.
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
Fresh charge doesn't always mean a good battery. But if the battery is at 12 volts or better when cranking the first question is always does the fuel pump prime (whirring sound) when you first turn the key?
Last edited:
CYYJ
Michael
Hi Chic:
Welcome to our forum community.
I agree with what others have said above - a fresh charge doesn't necessarily mean the battery is performing at full capacity.
To rule out the battery as the cause of the problem, you might want to hook the bike's battery up to an automobile battery (with the automobile running) using a set of booster cables, then crank the bike over. By doing that, you'll know that you have full cranking power. If it still doesn't start, then you can consider other troubleshooting options.
Michael
Welcome to our forum community.
I agree with what others have said above - a fresh charge doesn't necessarily mean the battery is performing at full capacity.
To rule out the battery as the cause of the problem, you might want to hook the bike's battery up to an automobile battery (with the automobile running) using a set of booster cables, then crank the bike over. By doing that, you'll know that you have full cranking power. If it still doesn't start, then you can consider other troubleshooting options.
Michael
woodybelle
Site Supporter
You might want to do that with the engine not running on the auto, it could over charge your battery.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
When boosting a motorcyle with a car it makes no difference to the motorcycle whether the car engine is running or not. If the engine is not running, assuming that the car's battery is in good condition, the power it has available far exceeds any current demand that the motorcycle can possibly place on it. With the car's engine running, the motorcycle will still demand the same amount of current from the car and it makes no difference to the motorcycle. The amount of current the motorcycle draws is determined by its needs within its design limits and not how much current is being made available to it. Both vehicles are 12V negative ground systems designed to operate within the same voltage ranges. It will not harm the motorcycle battery for the duration of time it takes to accomplish the boost.
Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK. Have you checked your main fuses? Also check sidestand and clutch stop switches in case one of them is preventing startup.
Sheriff41
Chuck
I got nothin' other than welcome to the forum! You'll get plenty of help and some good advice from the great members here.
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I think it's important to prevent voltage spikes to the vehicles being jumped and hence the admonition not to have the car running when jumping the bike. A good practice is to start with both vehicles turned off. Connect the motorcycle (or the dead battery vehicle) positive battery terminal to the good battery positive, then the dead battery's negative to a good unpainted metal bolt or projection on the engine or frame of the good battery vehicle. Then start the good battery vehicle and wait 30 seconds or so for the charging system to come online and ramp up to operating voltage. Then try to start the dead vehicle.
Try giving it some throttle when you're cranking it over. I had to do that last year with mine to get it started.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I would agree with you that voltage spikes are a concern when the electronic components of the motorcycle are subjected to them. This would be the case if the motorcycle's ignition switch was in the on position when the booster cables from the car are being connected to it. My presumption is that the motorcycle's ignition switch is in the off position when this is being done. The voltage spike is the result of the difference in voltage between the car's charged battery and the motorcycle's discharged battery. With the motorcycle's ignition switch in the off position, only the motorcycle's battery is being subjected to this voltage difference at this stage and not the rest of the motorcycle's electrical system, so it is not seeing any voltage spike. The difference of a couple of volts between the car engine running and not running has no effect on the motorcycle's battery when the booster cable are being connected and is not going to change anything at this point. Once the motorcycle's ignition switch is turned to the on or start positions, the motorcycle is being subjected to the same battery voltage that it normally is subjected to from its own battery when it is fully charged, so again, no difference to the motorcycle.
Once the booster cables are connected, the motorcycle battery is at the same voltage as the booster vehicle's battery. The booster vehicle's battery voltage drops significantly as power is drawn from it while the engine is being started. If you start the booster vehicle after connecting the booster cables, the voltage available at the motorcycle's battery drops to the same level as the booster vehicle's battery voltage because they are connected together. This creates a sudden drop in voltage that is followed by a sudden and drastic increase in voltage as the booster vehicle's battery recovers and its charging system kicks in. This is creating a far greater voltage swing than the minor difference between boosting with the car engine running or not running. And again, even that has no effect on the motorcycle's electrical system as long as the motorcycle's ignition switch is in the off position when this is being done.
My suggestions would be;
- Never connect both the positive and negative booster cables directly to the battery that is being boosted. The positive booster cable is connected to the discharged battery's positive terminal. The negative booster cable should be connected to a suitable ground point as far away from the battery being boosted as is feasible. This is to prevent any sparking from happening close to this battery.
- Never have the ignition switch of the vehicle being boosted in any position other than off while the booster cables are being connected.
- Never start the boost vehicle's engine after the booster cables have been connected to the vehicle being boosted. Either boost with the boost vehicle's engine off or start it before the booster cables are connected. This is not because this can damage the electrical system of the vehicle being boosted, if its ignition switch is in the off position, but rather because sudden and drastic voltage and current fluctuations caused by starting the boost vehicle can cause further damage to the already fragile discharged battery.
In the case of a motorcycle being boosted with a car, because the current demand on the car's battery is so minor, whether the car's engine is running or not makes no difference. When boosting other vehicles with a higher current demand, having the engine of the boost vehicle running adds the advantage of the extra current being added by its charging system. If the boost vehicle's battery is in good condition however, it shouldn't need this extra capacity to start the vehicle with the discharged battery. This assumes of course that the vehicle being boosted won't be cranked over long enough to drain the battery of the boost vehicle. If a lot of cranking will be needed to get the dead vehicle running, than better to have the engine of the boost vehicle running while boosting.
Once the booster cables are connected, the motorcycle battery is at the same voltage as the booster vehicle's battery. The booster vehicle's battery voltage drops significantly as power is drawn from it while the engine is being started. If you start the booster vehicle after connecting the booster cables, the voltage available at the motorcycle's battery drops to the same level as the booster vehicle's battery voltage because they are connected together. This creates a sudden drop in voltage that is followed by a sudden and drastic increase in voltage as the booster vehicle's battery recovers and its charging system kicks in. This is creating a far greater voltage swing than the minor difference between boosting with the car engine running or not running. And again, even that has no effect on the motorcycle's electrical system as long as the motorcycle's ignition switch is in the off position when this is being done.
My suggestions would be;
- Never connect both the positive and negative booster cables directly to the battery that is being boosted. The positive booster cable is connected to the discharged battery's positive terminal. The negative booster cable should be connected to a suitable ground point as far away from the battery being boosted as is feasible. This is to prevent any sparking from happening close to this battery.
- Never have the ignition switch of the vehicle being boosted in any position other than off while the booster cables are being connected.
- Never start the boost vehicle's engine after the booster cables have been connected to the vehicle being boosted. Either boost with the boost vehicle's engine off or start it before the booster cables are connected. This is not because this can damage the electrical system of the vehicle being boosted, if its ignition switch is in the off position, but rather because sudden and drastic voltage and current fluctuations caused by starting the boost vehicle can cause further damage to the already fragile discharged battery.
In the case of a motorcycle being boosted with a car, because the current demand on the car's battery is so minor, whether the car's engine is running or not makes no difference. When boosting other vehicles with a higher current demand, having the engine of the boost vehicle running adds the advantage of the extra current being added by its charging system. If the boost vehicle's battery is in good condition however, it shouldn't need this extra capacity to start the vehicle with the discharged battery. This assumes of course that the vehicle being boosted won't be cranked over long enough to drain the battery of the boost vehicle. If a lot of cranking will be needed to get the dead vehicle running, than better to have the engine of the boost vehicle running while boosting.
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
All the jump starting info here is good stuff. It might also be a moot point as the OP has not been back in almost 2 weeks. LOL.
ST Gui
240Robert
I have seen the down side of this when a 500A industrial charger was used. DAMHIKT. But is this a concern with our AGM batteries? Are they sealed or is there some venting that I didn't notice.
An option would be to make the connections to the victim vehicle first and to the donor second and remove them in the opposite order? Then again if the donor vehicle has an old school battery with the six caps on top and electrolyte all over the top...
Or though it adds some bulk use/make jumper cables with a connector in the middle. No muss no fuss no spark no boom. But sure a little cable connection discipline works well enough and is free.
BakerBoy
It's all small stuff.
Well, then, there's time for more discussion of individual adamancies: things like best tire, tire pressures, which moly paste, which engine oil, how often, fuel additives that solve tire wear, best way to jump start, best fuel, etc.
definitely Helium , when added to fuel in a 90:1 ratio by volume it drastically reduces the tyre wear , mainly because the bike is mostly floating
What I do know is that if you hook up the cables backward, as I recently stupidly did on my son's Kawi to see if it would at least turn over after sitting for about a year and a half now, before spending the money on a new battery (which will be an inevitability anyway), you get to look for the main 30A fuse! Luckily there was a replacement in the fuse block, simple swap after correcting the cables and viola...worked as advertised! Imagine that...sigh.
Turned over and started eventually (no battery installed) but won't roll off the idle stop without dying (choke on, won't stay running in idle without it) so we have some work to do on the carbs.
And I need to get him another 30A backup fuse. Some days I'm smarter than others.
Turned over and started eventually (no battery installed) but won't roll off the idle stop without dying (choke on, won't stay running in idle without it) so we have some work to do on the carbs.
And I need to get him another 30A backup fuse. Some days I'm smarter than others.
ST Gui
240Robert
Quick question: Is there a fuse or link that when blown would allow all lights to illuminate properly but not let the bike attempt to start? As I'm asking for a friend (seriously!) that's all the info I have at the moment.
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
Some bikes have a fuse just for the starter. Is it turning over at all?