St1100 ignition key profile

Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
21
Age
39
Location
Reading, Berkshire UK
Hi all
I’m trying to find what key profile the st1100 uses, I’ve searched everywhere none of the suppliers I use or key databases list anything for the st
I’ve tried decoding my key using every option on my key machine but getting nowhere
I have 2 keys but as I’m a locksmith I hate not knowing, plus I’m sure it will come in handy one day
I only do car keys so bike keys I’m not familiar with
Thanks in advance
Simon
 
This is the trouble I’m finding, I can find genuine blanks but finding that profile on the machines is proving difficult
I could manually trace the key but it’s a much better job to decode the key and cut from code, saves tracing a worn key producing a new worn key
Lots more research required for me
Thanks for your help
Simon
 
I could manually trace the key but it’s a much better job to decode the key and cut from code, saves tracing a worn key producing a new worn key
Doesn't a copy of a worn key fit a worn lock better than a new, code-cut key?

I had that problem with a dealer-cut key that wouldn't turn my NH750's ignition switch without a lot of fiddling.

They refunded me and gave me two blanks. The locksmith-cut copies worked flawlessly.
 
Doesn't a copy of a worn key fit a worn lock better than a new, code-cut key?

I had that problem with a dealer-cut key that wouldn't turn my NH750's ignition switch without a lot of fiddling.

They refunded me and gave me two blanks. The locksmith-cut copies worked flawlessly.

I do agree, some locks do prefer worn keys to suit, however some keys wear more than the lock and stop turning without a jiggle
Thankfully I’m not at that stage yet, just trying to cover the “lost key” scenario plus I’d like to be able to help other members here with keys but to do that I need to sort profiles etc which would allow me to decode from pictures and cut straight from a key number
Simon
 
I assume by decode, you want the depth of each notch? And also the center to center distance between adjacent notches? Or are you talking about the profile of the key blank - i.e. the number stamped on the head of the key?
 
Yes the decode of the key is the depth of each notch, the key profile is the shape of the uncut blank key, each manufacturer has their own code but the most recognised manufacturer here in the uk is Silca
For example the new Honda cars are on a HON66 key profile, while there are lots of Silca HON.. profiles they are all too short
I’m not familiar with ILCO numbers as in the st-riders post earlier but I hope to be able to convert ILCO to silca on a code software
Thanks
Simon
 
I could manually trace the key but it’s a much better job to decode the key and cut from code, saves tracing a worn key producing a new worn key
Ah, I think I get it now:
it ain't about panto-graphing the profile into a blank key, you'd rather like to punch the alphanumeric MFG key code into your CNC cutter and just press START... ;)
I've no clue how to get hands on such a database, dunno if Honda UK/EU would even support such a request (they must have such as you can order a new OEM key by VIN & the number-tag you've received with title, owner's manual and key-ring upon purchase at the dealer; but judging by the delivery times I have to assume they get them made at Honda HQ Japan...)

IIRC is there also a differential to observe about what section of a key operates which locks on the vehicle...
i.e.: one section of the profile obviously operates the ignition lock tumbler, whilst an other then works pannier latches, fuel cap door, etc...
(realized that with a copied key on a '94 ST: always had to wiggle & fumble to get the ignition unlocked, whilst always working easy right at first attempt on all the other (simpler) locks...)

You also receive specific "workshop keys" from some automotive MFGs like Toyota with your vehicle, which only work on driver's door and ignition lock, but not on the trunk/booth or glove compartment to protect any private property in there...
 
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