ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose changes?

toxopholist

Hello,

once again i wish to drink at the font of ST1100 knowledge.

Mines a USA 90ish it was first registered in the UK in 90 and they didnt make them much older!! it has 73000 on the clock, timing belt was done a few months ago and the last major job done....

So i had an overheating problem, and thanks to info on here from the great and the wise i shortened the hose from the thermostat to the reservoir tank and that seems to have done the trick beautifully, pending a new hose (on back order 7-10 days.)

I rode from Canary Wharf to Hampton court, a ride of about 21miles, that took about an hour. After crawling through town for 40 minutes, i noticed a slight lack of power when pulling away from idle, then after a further 5-10 minutes the only way to get the bike to go was to run the revs up to 6-7000rpm and feed in the clutch, i hate doing it i feel like i am killing the clutch plates... and i sound like a hoolingan. The alternative was to pull away normally and ride through the misfire, and when the bike hits 4,000rpm the lazy cylinder (i think its just one, it doesnt feel lumpy enough to be a whole bank) finally picks up, the bike surges and rides normally again. Very occasionally, such as pulling away in 2nd after rolling into a red light there is some mild hesitation but then it picks up like normal.

On the ride back, all was normal again, until i hit traffic, then once things warmed up again the misfire was back and on occasion the lack of power quite crippling.

A light misfire was noted in the full service a couple of months ago, and HT leads, coils and plugs were checked with no diagnosis for the misfire.

So my questions are these.

I have Monday off, i need the bike on Tuesday.

After my overheat problem i am going to change the radiator cap and thermostat, i was going to change the coolant hoses, do a flush through of the cooling system, and do oil filter and oil. On further research i find doing all the hoses is going to means lifting out the carbs. I am atempting too much in one day? I wont have access to spares other than comon stuff at motor factors.

Is lifting out the carbs a job for the DIY mechanic? I used to balance the twin carbs on my MGB by ear, i'm guessing thats not the case on a quad setup on a bike. Can i remove the carbs without disturbing the setup?

Lifting out the carbs wasnt in the playbook originally, but it could be the opportunity to find the misfire....

Is there a good guide to the job somewhere online?

Do you have a few ideas of what to look for/at in a day...

and finally, and i'm half expecting a slap for even suggesting it, but i am tempted to pick up one of the fuel addatives you can get in the gas stations here in the uk to see if that helps... I think the commonly available one in STP...

Thanks again for your help, i'm still telling other riders about the you guys spotting the noise a few months back as a failed bearing, and i'm hoping for another more pearls of wisdom...

Charlie
 
Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

May be as simple as a bad fuel shut-off vacuum diaprham. If carb bank has never been off, likely hood of a cracked or leaking intake boot is pretty good too. A lean running cyl. not corrected can leave you with a ventilated piston....just sayin'. The age of the bike unfortunately leaves you with NO magic solution. Pull the necessary stuff to remove tank, then the carb bank(throttle/enricher cables do NOT have to be removed). Replace coolant elbows and ajoining O-rings(2 each) and DEFINITELY replace the carb boots(4). That mileage on bike indicates to me those two things are needing to be done before ANY touching of carbs. May sound irelavent to your running issue, but is not.
 
Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

Could be a torn carb diaphram. Usually if you get the 'run out of gas' feeling, it's the fuel cutoff (which you can remove and toss) or the fuel pump. If it seems to be missing on only one cylinder, that I'd check the color of the spark plugs first before I pull the carbs. BTW, a lot easier to pull the carbs if you remove the gas tank which is no big deal (but remember the wire on the side of the tank - battery side) because it gives you more room to work. Also, if you do pull the carbs, don't forget to reconnect the vacuum hose on the bottom of them before you reinstall. This has been done more that once and means you get to pull them again to connect it ... ;-)
 
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Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

Thank you to both of you, i am not sure i can get a replacement diaphram by monday, would you recommend leaving the whole lot until wednesday when i get back, i can probably get a replacement part in by then... and i'm guessing theres no fix for a diaphram other than to bin it and get a new one...


Charlie
 
Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

Also I should have mentioned that applying even the smallest amount of choke once it's grumpy kills the engine dead, although the restart is fine (once you have turned off the choke).Thanks, Charlie
 
Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

You can make you own replacement for a torn diaphram. 2" wide flat stock cut to about 2" long w/ a hack saw. Clean up the edged.
Use the old unit to mark where the hole need to be & a power drill will get you 4 holes. Next you will need some
gasket material from a auto parts store. Cut 2 2" x 2" section & place 4 holes using the old unit, just you did for the plate.
Install in place of the old unit with thew gaskets on both sides of your replacement plate & you are good to go. A 2 hour job using
tools you should have sitting around.
 
Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

Couple of comments.......

All good advice above. I assume you have a shop manual. Pulling the carbs is a laborious process, but not too technically challenging. Once the carbs are off cover the intakes immediately. Take numerous pictures as you disassemble and/or strip out the old hoses. Will be helpful when you are putting everything back to where it should go. Many of the clamp screws are in precise locations for fit or so they can be reached to be tightened post assembly should they come loose. BTW, I elected to double clamp the hoses at the elbows as this is a notorious "loose clamp" leaking point on the ST. I can't speak to the diaphragm issue, but you may find loose boot clamp(s) or a cracked boot(s) that was a cause of your engine run issue. New boots and proper reassembly will address this. I found getting the short hose between the tank and the thermostat assembly on to be brutal. Heat gun and a bit of lube helped.


In addition to St-Owners if you're looking for detailed technical info checkout http://www.st-riders.net/ and http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/
 
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Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

Did you get your rough running when warm and choke kills engine issues resolved? I'm having the start of similar symptoms on my bike. Misfiring when taking off from a light when warm and the choke kills the engine. The choke does not bring revs up when cold as expected in general.
 
Re: ST1100 runs rough and lacks power around town when warm. Also cooling hose change

Did you get your rough running when warm and choke kills engine issues resolved? I'm having the start of similar symptoms on my bike. Misfiring when taking off from a light when warm and the choke kills the engine. The choke does not bring revs up when cold as expected in general.

Might consider a new fuel filter if its not been done in a while. OEM, no aftermarket fuel filter. Run some Sea-Foam in the fuel while your at it and see if it clears up.
 
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