Greetings riders, after a long discussion with my self and some feet dragging after the decision, I swapped the OEM for a Hagon with remote adjustment.
The bike, 2016 ST1300PA. Existing shock was OEM with Racetech spring and spacer. Yes, I have been in there before, it gets easier. Having already pulled and resprung the OEM it was set up for "easy" swap. Flipping the bolt on the swing arm first time around ment I didn't have to unbolt the peg carrier. 8mm, 10mm Allen, 10mm socket.
( This photo is a 2010, more on that later)

You will notice the bolt from the factory on the swing arm is inserted from the right side, facilitating the need to loosen the peg carrier.
After removing and from advising by @dduelin I inserted the bolt from the left side. 14 and 17 mm.

Removed the preload adjuster bracket from the bike and adjuster. 10mm

Insert wrench for top nut. 14mm open end Remove bolt. 8 mm Allen

Fought a bit to get it in and out, left the new shock and preload in tact.


New preload

I did use a scissor jack to adjust the swing arm and coaxed the new shock in, the tolerances are a little tighter than factory. It took about an hour, not including pulling the wheel.

Then I swapped the "old" OEM with the Racetch spring into the 2010. This was all factory so I had to loosen the peg carrier as stated above. Having installed a SS hose on the OEM and dealing with leaks, I swapped the factory hose back on. I left the preload adjuster in the bike and removed the hose from the shock, noting the position of the barrel bolt.
Old OEM, "new" installed

With the peg carrier loose and the preload hose in situ, this was incredibly easy. I just lifted the old shock out and slid the new one in. This took about 15 minutes, not including wheel removal.
Remember to tighten everything back up to factory specs.
Have to fit a new rear tire on the '16 and then out for shake down.
The bike, 2016 ST1300PA. Existing shock was OEM with Racetech spring and spacer. Yes, I have been in there before, it gets easier. Having already pulled and resprung the OEM it was set up for "easy" swap. Flipping the bolt on the swing arm first time around ment I didn't have to unbolt the peg carrier. 8mm, 10mm Allen, 10mm socket.
( This photo is a 2010, more on that later)

You will notice the bolt from the factory on the swing arm is inserted from the right side, facilitating the need to loosen the peg carrier.
After removing and from advising by @dduelin I inserted the bolt from the left side. 14 and 17 mm.

Removed the preload adjuster bracket from the bike and adjuster. 10mm

Insert wrench for top nut. 14mm open end Remove bolt. 8 mm Allen

Fought a bit to get it in and out, left the new shock and preload in tact.


New preload

I did use a scissor jack to adjust the swing arm and coaxed the new shock in, the tolerances are a little tighter than factory. It took about an hour, not including pulling the wheel.

Then I swapped the "old" OEM with the Racetch spring into the 2010. This was all factory so I had to loosen the peg carrier as stated above. Having installed a SS hose on the OEM and dealing with leaks, I swapped the factory hose back on. I left the preload adjuster in the bike and removed the hose from the shock, noting the position of the barrel bolt.
Old OEM, "new" installed

With the peg carrier loose and the preload hose in situ, this was incredibly easy. I just lifted the old shock out and slid the new one in. This took about 15 minutes, not including wheel removal.
Remember to tighten everything back up to factory specs.
Have to fit a new rear tire on the '16 and then out for shake down.