Starting 2006 ST1300 while in 1st gear

Sundayride

Sundayride

Joined
Oct 27, 2015
Messages
23
Location
Virginia
Don't know if it's me or the bike. This morning when I tried to start my bike in 1st gear while on the bike with the kickstand up, ignition turn on, in 1st gear with clutch
lever depressed, with the red emergency turn off switch in the on position the bike was completely dead. Once I put the bike in neutral, the bike started. Any suggestions would
be appreciated.
 
Sounds like your clutch switch is bad, I am on number three and I had the same symptoms as you. The switch is cheap and easy to change out.
 
Check to see if the levers have been changed and not operating the switch mech ,you should hear the switch contacts when you pull it in and out without the bike running .
 
I have found that if you have an adjustable after market clutch lever that the lever will not interact with the switch properly. I switched mine out with a VFR800 clutch lever and it does work better but there is a limit as to when the adjustment will make the switch inoperable.
 
I have the 1100, but another forum member here had the same symptoms with his 1300. He ordered a new switch, and that didn't fix it. It actually was just his leads that connect to the switch. He re crimped the leads just a bit and reinstalled the leads, and that fixed it. Try that before you order a new switch.

:tc1:

Gary.
 
"......I have found that if you have an adjustable after market clutch lever that the lever will not interact with the switch properly..."

Happened to me as well. The clutch will not acitvate the switch on its lower (ie. closer to the grip) settings.

If the switch is still activated, then, as mentioned before, check the wiring to the switch.
Rod
 
All the posts referring to the clutch seems to be the only logical explanation to me, I don't know what else it could be. The thing that I find puzzling though, is why anyone would Want to start the ST with it in gear, especially if it's the first start-up of the day after being parked overnight. I've never noticed this on my ST, but some bikes that I have owned in the past have had a tendency to want to creep forward after shifting into gear while the engine and oil is still cold, as in the first start after being parked for a long period of time, as in overnight. Also, it's a very good habit to get into, to allow the engine to run long enough to at least begin warming up and getting a little oil circulation through the engine before putting any load on it. Obviously, this practice applies to any vehicle powered by internal combustion.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
One additional note on the switch. When pull the clutch lever in slowly with the bike off you should be able to hear the clicking of the interlock switch. If you do not there are two options, either a bad switch or if you have an adjustable clutch lever it is not adjusted properly to engage with the switch.

If the switch clicks when the lever is operated, check it with a multi meter to make sure it opens and closes. The switch has flat connection posts, remove the wire lead connectors and connect the multi meter. Set the meter to 20k ohms, with the clutch lever in the normal engaged position the meter should read "1" and when the lever is pulled in the value on the meter should go to "0". This tells you that the switch is operating properly. The switch is held on by one screw you can always remove it to check it.

There are many Honda motorcycles that use this switch, I would suspect that it is a stock item at the local Honda dealer.
 
Don B said:
I've never noticed this on my ST, but some bikes that I have owned in the past have had a tendency to want to creep forward after shifting into gear while the engine and oil is still cold...
Click to expand...

The ST will do that under the right conditions, too. Cold oil doesn't run out from between the clutch parts as easily and allows a bit of power to be transferred to the transmission. The same thing happens between the transmission shafts, allowing the rear wheel to spin a bit when it's off the ground. It doesn't take much resistance to overcome it in either case, so you don't notice it with the rear wheel on the ground.

It's also a good habit to apply the brake if you're starting it in gear. The switches don't take into account whether there's a physical connection between the engine and the rear wheel, so you may find yourself on an unexpected ride when the engine fires. The brakes will prevent the engine from starting or force it to stall if it does. Putting the transmission in neutral means there have to be three failures (clutch, transmission and brakes) before the bike will jump out from under you.

--Mark
 
If I'm in a hurry I start routinely start the bike in gear. With my 305 Scrambler and heavy Barnett springs I developed the life long habit of applying a brake whenever starting the bike even when in neutral. The only time I don't is if I'm not on the bike and it's on the center stand.

Aside from my 305 none of my bike ever exerted enough cold morning lurch to amount to more of a shake before the clutch broke free of CMS (Cold Morning Stiction). I retained the habit regardless. There was one time at Band Camp when the heavy springs and a worn clutch cable gave me a surprise but I was already in the habit of keeping a brake on.
 
Don B said:
The thing that I find puzzling though, is why anyone would Want to start the ST with it in gear
Click to expand...
One would be if you stall it, it is nice to pull the clutch in and fire up the bike if you are in traffic. Not that I have ever done that!!
 
970mike said:
One would be if you stall it, it is nice to pull the clutch in and fire up the bike if you are in traffic. Not that I have ever done that!!
Click to expand...

Mike - I never have either. But in case I might, it would be nice to have it fire up in that situation. Getting this problem fixed would be a good thing, just in case.
 
Now that you know how to replace the clutch switch, you may be wondering how the start interlock system works.

I certainly found it confusing when first reading about the clutch, the run/stop, the side-stand, the starter, and the neutral switches, so I made a sketch to aid me in trouble shooting the start interlock system as used on the Honda ST1300.

Perhaps you will also find it useful.

Link to Start & Run Circuit Schematic.

Oh, and when you go to reconnect the two conductors (black wires), to the clutch switch, it doesn't matter which conductor goes to which switch terminal, polarity is not important to this switch.
 
I'll just pass this on, handed down to me by a fellow member, bmwdumptruck, of The Honda Pan European Forum.

"Just watch it's not that the clutch lever has a small indent worn it it after years of rubbing the switches trigger. I just glued a tiny piece of thin metal on the lever after a new switch didn't improve things.
cool.gif
cool.gif

( think I used a Stanley knife blade broken down into about a 6-7mm square glued on with superglue. Think it was about two years ago now)"

This sorted out my clutch switch problem a couple of weeks back. In fact I had to use two thicknesses of Blade before my switch activated.
 
Kevin_56 said:
Mike - I never have either. But in case I might, it would be nice to have it fire up in that situation. Getting this problem fixed would be a good thing, just in case.
Click to expand...

I do leave the bike in gear when parked on a hill, and it is nice to just pull in the clutch and start the bike and go.
 
I have the same problem with my '04#2. I already replaced the clutch switch, didn't help. If I get around to it, I'm going to try the sidestand switch. I'll just swap it off of the other '04.
 
970mike said:
One would be if you stall it, it is nice to pull the clutch in and fire up the bike if you are in traffic. Not that I have ever done that!!
Click to expand...

Duh - I think I recall that happening to me once or twice, , ,:eek::
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom