Steering Head Bearing Dust Seal

[Rob20111]

Doing my first head bearing replacement on the ST today and was just wondering if you guys use the upper dust seal that comes with the All Balls kit?
I installed it but think it might be causing some drag on the top bearing, as it feels stiff when mooing the trees left and right (without forks installed).
Even when final torque set as low as 15 lbs/ft. Clymer book says final torque is 20.5 lbs.ft.
Bike had original ball bearings prior.
Had this issue on my GL1500 and ended up tossing the seal as that bike has a metal dust cap integrated into the adjustment nut.

Your thoughts?

 

[Rob20111]

Just checked an online parts fiche and it shows the adjustment nut having a metal cup like my Wing, but on my ST it is seperate from the adjustment nut.
Wondering if it has been damaged and come apart into two pieces, making it difficult to stay centered when tightening. Might that be the issue?

 

[mlheck]

I've never seen a seal on the top. The upper cap should have a nut on it. Then the lock ring, followed by the locking nut.

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[dwalby]

Its been so many years since I changed mine I don't remember the details, but, from the parts fiche for the steering stem:

DUST SEAL, STEERING (UPPER) (ARAI)
53213-MB4-771

Also, on the ST the adjustment nuts are below the top triple clamp and require the Honda tool or similar to torque them. They are relatively flat, so your comment about the adjustment nut being cupped doesn't sound right, take another look at the fiche. Even the nut above the triple clamp isn't cupped, so I'm confused which "cupped" nut you're talking about.

Also, once you change from ball bearings to tapered roller bearings all torque values are irrelevant, set it according to feel and you'll be OK. After you put a few miles on it the bearing races may seat a little in the steering head and loosen up, so don't be surprised if you have to readjust it again after 500-1,000 miles or so.

 

[Rob20111]

On my Wing the adjustment nut has a big cup attached (see pics) but on my ST these are two separate pieces as if they had come apart.
Pic 2 shows view from the underside of the cup portion (nut not visible), pic 1 shows the top view two pieces together as 1.
Yes I do have the special tool for tightening the adjustment nut.
So far it sounds to me like you guys don't use he supplied upper dust seal (pic 3).

 

[dwalby]

Back to the original issue, the torque required for ball bearings is much higher than tapered rollers, so if you're setting it to the torque spec for the OEM ball bearings its going to be way too tight regardless of the dust seal.

Its possible a previous owner swapped some parts out if your adjustment nut doesn't look like the one in the fiche with the 'flange' on it. Seems unlikely that the nut would just break apart, but I dunno. Either way, if that's causing problems with the dust seal alignment its probably best to spend a few bucks for the correct adjustment nut. Sorry, I can't recall if I tossed the upper dust seal when I did mine because it was so long ago, but your comment that the flange on the adjustment nut will cover the top of the bearing surface anyway seemed to ring a bell. I did mine 20 years ago, before the All Balls kit was available, and I think those bearings didn't include replacement dust seals, so I had to use the original dust seals or nothing. Since the All Balls seals are part of a kit it would seem like they should fit without interfering with anything, so I suspect your main problem may be too much torque.

 

[Rob20111]

Well I know that All Balls kits are designed to accommodate many different models, so they usually include extra parts that might not be used in your application.
Anyway I used the freehand method and feels good. I will replace the adjustment nut anyway.

 

[kiltman]

When I had my head bearings changed to taper bearings, the nut had to be torqued by feel. The recommended torque for ball bearings is too high for the taper bearings. If it is torqued to the OEM spec you can experience a slow spread weave or wallow.