Suzuki 2011 Bandit [1250FA]

czarwolf

czarwolf

Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Messages
127
Age
41
Location
Kingsland, GA
Bike
2011 Suzuki 1250FA
Hello all!

About two months ago I picked up a 1250FA, Having put close to 8000 miles on it, She needs a few things, A oil change namely but also a chain adjustment. Ive watched some videos and it doesn't appear to be to troublesome. But my question is thus, What tools do I need before I start this venture of getting the slack out of the chain, and doing the full oil change? I could do the oil change on my ST1100 with my eyes closed not removing any Fairings except to refill the oil, But the Bandit is a little more indepth. Any advice would be helpful!

But most importantly :p What tools do I need? Mine didn't come with the little baggy of tools.
 
First thing to do is get yourself a shop manual, like you would for any bike. Oil change is not difficult - getting the filter changed is a bit clumsy. You don't need to take any plastic off.
1: Warm up the bike. 2: Put it on center stand. 3: take off the filler cap and the plug and drain the oil. 4: Using either the special oil filter tool or a oil filter pliers (I use the pliers) go in between the header pipes from the left side of the bike and loosen the oil filter after covering the pipes below the filter with foil. 5: Remove the old filter using the same route -- you'll have to move the rubber hoses a bit to get it out - it's a tight squeeze. 6: install the new filter the same way, and tighten using the cap wrench or pliers. 7: Re-install the drain plug (change the crush washer) 8: Refill the oil the normal way. It takes a little less than 4 quarts, about 2-3 ounces less.

As far as the chain is concerned, you always need some slack in the chain. To check it, put bike on centerstand. There should be 20-30 mm (.8 - 1.2") of slack at the middle of the chain between the drive and engine sprockets (bottom of chain). At 8000 miles you probably don't need new parts. You can find a video on how to adjust the chain if needed. I'm just changing the chain and sprockets on my 2011 FA with 42,000+ miles on it. The sprockets still look good but the chain is starting to kink.
 
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Don, has the specifics covered and he obviously knows your bike well.
When adjusting the chain before loosening things off check the chain slack all around by spinning the back wheel, there will be one spot that feels tighter than anywhere else and adjust it there. If you adjust elsewhere it could be too tight once adjusted and cause issues.
Good luck.
Upt'North.
 
A tenant left behind a package of disposable diapers. They sat on a shelf in my shop for ages, until I got the bright idea of putting one under the oil filter when changing oil. The diaper catches the oil and it doesn't leak through. I spin the filter off as quickly as possible and hold it w/ the threaded hole up so I don't spill more oil than the diaper can hold.
 
If you have less chain slack in one area than another, I'd suspect a kinked chain. Otherwise, the chain slack should be the same at any point you stop, shouldn't it?
 
SMSW said:
A tenant left behind a package of disposable diapers. They sat on a shelf in my shop for ages, until I got the bright idea of putting one under the oil filter when changing oil. The diaper catches the oil and it doesn't leak through. I spin the filter off as quickly as possible and hold it w/ the threaded hole up so I don't spill more oil than the diaper can hold.
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Looks like I just found a use for the pet training pads that never got used. I swear, you guys on here are geniuses!
 
Don-STOC237 said:
First thing to do is get yourself a shop manual, like you would for any bike. Oil change is not difficult - getting the filter changed is a bit clumsy. You don't need to take any plastic off.
1: Warm up the bike. 2: Put it on center stand. 3: take off the filler cap and the plug and drain the oil. 4: Using either the special oil filter tool or a oil filter pliers (I use the pliers) go in between the header pipes from the left side of the bike and loosen the oil filter after covering the pipes below the filter with foil. 5: Remove the old filter using the same route -- you'll have to move the rubber hoses a bit to get it out - it's a tight squeeze. 6: install the new filter the same way, and tighten using the cap wrench or pliers. 7: Re-install the drain plug (change the crush washer) 8: Refill the oil the normal way. It takes a little less than 4 quarts, about 2-3 ounces less.

As far as the chain is concerned, you always need some slack in the chain. To check it, put bike on centerstand. There should be 20-30 mm (.8 - 1.2") of slack at the middle of the chain between the drive and engine sprockets (bottom of chain). At 8000 miles you probably don't need new parts. You can find a video on how to adjust the chain if needed. I'm just changing the chain and sprockets on my 2011 FA with 42,000+ miles on it. The sprockets still look good but the chain is starting to kink.
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Thanks for the info! Ill make it my project this coming week, The bike is closing in rapidly on 30k miles, Ive just put 8k on it since I got it. And that's great news about not having to mess with the fairings to get to the oil. It was a job on my ST1100, Doing oil and coolant. The rear sprocket looks almost new, the chain is dragging along the plastic / runner deal on the top side leading to the front sprocket, This leads me to believe it has excess slack. So to do the Oil, The tank needs to be removed and nothing else? You have no idea how good that is to hear!
 
fnmag said:
Don has answered your question.
Congrats on your new to you Suzuki 1250 Bandit. I've ridden them before and they are an excellent bike that can tour as well as perform well in the twisties and commute.
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I like it a lot! My old ST while I love her, She was like a tank compared to the Bandit, But I will say it took some getting used to, The ST offer complete wind resistance where as the Bandit leaves me exposed!
 
Don-STOC237 said:
If you have less chain slack in one area than another, I'd suspect a kinked chain. Otherwise, the chain slack should be the same at any point you stop, shouldn't it?
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Absolutely not. Look at the geometry of the chain and sprockets. Take extreme positions: Measure the slack at the midpoint between front and rear sprockets. Now measure the slack one inch in front of the rear sprocket. The measurements will not be the same. If you watch the chain while you do the midpoint measurement, you will see the chain move upward say 1 1/4" but it will barely move right in front of the rear sprocket.

Think congruent right triangles, with the altitude of the larger one the slack at midpoint, and the altitude of the small one that one inch in front of the rear sprocket.

I would assume the amount of slack is determined by the suspension travel, and thus the motion of the swingarm. The rear sprocket will move in an arc, and depending where the front pivot point is located, it will move toward or away from the front sprocket. Slack allows the chain free play so that when the rear sprocket is farthest from the front sprocket the chain is not exerting excessive force trying to pull the two sprockets toward each other. The engineers calculate that pull depending on torque and engine size, but they do not want the chain (which is not extensible) exerting large forces on the bearings and oil seals.
 
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Thanks for all the info guys, I picked up one of the manuals that tells me everything except what tools are needed for the job lol. But it does say something that piqued my interest, The Chain is a special continuous chain with no breaks or master link, Ive never seen or heard of these before, Where do you find them if I ever need a replacement?
 
czarwolf said:
Thanks for all the info guys, I picked up one of the manuals that tells me everything except what tools are needed for the job lol. But it does say something that piqued my interest, The Chain is a special continuous chain with no breaks or master link, Ive never seen or heard of these before, Where do you find them if I ever need a replacement?
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The OEM chain is continuous, so you'll need to cut one of the links to get it off, or grind off the rivets on one of the lengths. I've never seen a continuous replacement chain. You can get good quality chain and sprockets at almost any motorcycle dealer or online. You'll want a strong high-quality O-ring or X-ring chain like a Bikemaster BMZR or similar, with at least 118 links. Most of the heavier chains are 120-122 links, so you'll have to remove a few before installing. I use the BMZR 530 which is built for 1400cc bikes. There are a lot of other good chains on the market, like DID, Renthal, Unibear, and others. I would suggest using a 530 chain, which is a bit more robust and probably a bit more long-lasting. You'll probably want to invest in a chain-breaker and riveting toolset. These are widely available at dealers and online and are mostly under $50. Make sure you get a motorcycle one and not one for bicycle or automotive use. Whatever chain you use make sure you lube it frequently, at least every 600 miles, preferably at the end of a ride when the chain is still warm, with a good-quality lube. I prefer non-wax chain lube, my favorite is Amsoil chain lube.
 
SMSW said:
Absolutely not. Look at the geometry of the chain and sprockets. Take extreme positions: Measure the slack at the midpoint between front and rear sprockets. Now measure the slack one inch in front of the rear sprocket. The measurements will not be the same. If you watch the chain while you do the midpoint measurement, you will see the chain move upward say 1 1/4" but it will barely move right in front of the rear sprocket.

Think congruent right triangles, with the altitude of the larger one the slack at midpoint, and the altitude of the small one that one inch in front of the rear sprocket.

I would assume the amount of slack is determined by the suspension travel, and thus the motion of the swingarm. The rear sprocket will move in an arc, and depending where the front pivot point is located, it will move toward or away from the front sprocket. Slack allows the chain free play so that when the rear sprocket is farthest from the front sprocket the chain is not exerting excessive force trying to pull the two sprockets toward each other. The engineers calculate that pull depending on torque and engine size, but they do not want the chain (which is not extensible) exerting large forces on the bearings and oil seals.
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I see what you're getting at, but I think that over-complicates the process. Basically, with the bike on the center stand I just rotate the wheel until the lowest part of the chain (the center bottom) is at its lowest point, then measure the slack at that point. If the lowest point varies considerably as the chain passes the center, I'll be looking for kinked links (i.e. links that aren't flattening in line with the rest of the chain. I've really not had to adjust the chain much or at all on my last few chain-drive bikes, as most quality chains these days are pre-stretched. If they're kinking though, it's time to replace them.

On the question of the chain hitting the top of the swingarm when at rest, that's pretty normal and I wouldn't worry about it. When power is applied, the top of the chain tightens and it won't hit. If it does hit while running, then you've got a problem.
 
It rides the top of the swing arm once the bike is warmed up and I am in 1 - 4th gear, Once I get 40+ MPH and higher gear it doesn't ride the swing arm any more, I can hear and feel it when it does at low speeds. This is the main reason i want to get the tools to adjust the chain, The rear sprocket is in good shape, I plan on checking the front one this weekend when I give her a bath :p

I say when warmed up because it doesn't seem to do it when I first get on her 'cold' and start to ride for the first mile or so putting down my dirt road.
 
I don't have a manual for your bike, but many are adjusted on the side stand. If the chain is hitting the top of the swingarm when warmed up then you've likely got too much slack in the chain..... refer to your manual for the proper procedure.
 
czarwolf said:
It rides the top of the swing arm once the bike is warmed up and I am in 1 - 4th gear, Once I get 40+ MPH and higher gear it doesn't ride the swing arm any more, I can hear and feel it when it does at low speeds. This is the main reason i want to get the tools to adjust the chain, The rear sprocket is in good shape, I plan on checking the front one this weekend when I give her a bath :p

I say when warmed up because it doesn't seem to do it when I first get on her 'cold' and start to ride for the first mile or so putting down my dirt road.
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Ya, I'd say it was due for an adjustment then. You don't need any special tools, just put it on the center stand and do the adjustment per your owners manual or shop manual. The tools you need are a socket and maybe an extension for the rear axle nut, a wrench for the locking and adjusting nuts, and a torque wrench. Make sure the adjuster is aligned with the same indicator mark on both sides of the swingarm so the axle is properly aligned.
 
Thanks for all the info guys, It was partially the chain [Adjusted twice now since buying it], But it appears its more an issue with my rear wheel bearing on its way out, Ordered a new set and will hopefully get it done before the week ends! Next week ill do my front bearing to be safe, getting them both done as soon as possible, Never thought it would be a bearing and not a chain issue! And here I was ready to invest in a new Chain / Sproket set.
 
czarwolf said:
Thanks for all the info guys, I picked up one of the manuals that tells me everything except what tools are needed for the job lol. But it does say something that piqued my interest, The Chain is a special continuous chain with no breaks or master link, Ive never seen or heard of these before, Where do you find them if I ever need a replacement?
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If I bought a new chain for my 97 BMW f650 from BMW it had no break or masterlink. The replacement procedure said to remove the swing arm. I bought an aftermarket with a masterlink instead.
 
I would still consider changing the sprockets and the chain. Given you put on 8k miles on top of what was on the bike and it has the original chain on the bike.
What I remember from my chain adjusting days was to turn each adjuster bolt a 1/4 turn per side till you got rid of the excess slack, as to keep the axel straight, thus preventing a high speed wobble. I also use to measure the distance from the swing arm bolt to the centre of the rear axel to confirm that the axel was straight in the swing arm.
 
Don-STOC237 said:
If you have less chain slack in one area than another, I'd suspect a kinked chain. Otherwise, the chain slack should be the same at any point you stop, shouldn't it?
Click to expand...

No, you will have a tight spot and looser spots. The individual links and orings can stretch. You'd notice a kinked chain as you spun it around by hand and looked at it.
 
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