Swingarm welded on ?

HondaDreams78

HondaDreams78

Joined
Sep 23, 2018
Messages
46
Age
47
Hi Good Folks of the Honda ST1100 world can anybody tell me if a certain batch of the Bike were recalled because the Swingarm had been welded on in Error? As I can't seem to free my one on a 1999, Now the Reason am going at it is Because the Final drive Hub needs replacing have drained , nuts are rusted aqward no room in Horse box looking to Take off with SA , have brake lines out of way as well as tank , pivot nut/ bolts both sides, I can move it left & right , up & down just not out & off, over 3 hrs on cpl separate occasions now, seems as if it is held up in the Corner with final Drive Housing with boot on it connected to Engine Block , & the Lip that SA sits into on frame , have sprayed wd-40 into it cpl times , Any ideas what's keeping me Frustrated please?
 
I think the driveshaft is spring loaded into the transmission housing, so if you haven't removed the final drive and driveshaft that might be what's hanging things up.

your post is a bit cryptic in parts, but I think you said the nuts holding the final drive onto the swingarm are rusted, and you can't remove it from the swingarm?
 
Grab the end of the driveshaft on its splines and pull it to the rear/off the tranie output shaft. Then and only then can the swingarm be removed.

Edit: as you remove the swingarm be careful you don’t let the driveshaft drop out and fall to the floor!
 
Last edited:
I assume that you have disconnected the rear suspension ?
The shaft fits into the universal joint at the front end and that fits into the gearbox drive.

I think that I always took the final drive off first, I don't remember why. Probably to remove the weight.
But the swing arm needs to be straight so the the universal joint is straight, and it can pull straight back. Slide the rubber shroud bcak off the crank casing at.

I cannot remember any reason it will not come off. You have taken the rear caliper off and the stopper bolt ? What is preventing it ?
 
Last edited:
Just to be clear - when the front of the driveshaft is connected to the transmission output shaft splines, the swingarm cannot move left far enough for its ‘boss’ projecting on the right front from clearing the recess in the frame. Pull the driveshaft off the transmission and ‘viola…!’ TruST me.

John
 
dwalby said:
I think the driveshaft is spring loaded into the transmission housing, so if you haven't removed the final drive and driveshaft that might be what's hanging things up.

your post is a bit cryptic in parts, but I think you said the nuts holding the final drive onto the swingarm are rusted, and you can't remove it from the swingarm?
Click to expand...
Correct they don't seem to move little space to get at them , socket had was to big , that's what I originally wanted to change but as had difficulty thought would take of final drive with SA but not happening, Does feel like what you say is the hold up , but no where else does it clearly mention that as a Must, have a small blow torch on the way & a Smaller socket set maybe will have to try go at nuts again on Final drive housing

jfheath said:
I assume that you have disconnected the rear suspension ?
The shaft fits into the universal joint at the front end and that fits into the gearbox drive.

I think that I always took the final drive off first, I don't remember why. Probably to remove the weight.
But the swing arm needs to be straight so the the universal joint is straight, and it can pull straight back. Slide the rubber shroud bcak off the crank casing at.

I cannot remember any reason it will not come off. You have taken the rear caliper off and the stopper bolt ? What is preventing it ?
Click to expand...
Not Removed Rear Final Drive as only had big half inch socket at time little room, plus rusted , just to confirm standing from behind drive unit the 4 nuts should turn right correct? I know lefty loosey , Righty Tighty, but 26 years on there Gon very shitey Tighty Ps. Thanks for speedy Reply forgot to thank other Member Also will after did a Reply to message
 
HondaDreams78 said:
just to confirm standing from behind drive unit the 4 nuts should turn right correct? I know lefty loosey , Righty Tighty, but 26 years on there Gon very shitey Tighty
Click to expand...
I don't understand your position, and while this is an 1100 question, my 1300's final drive was held on by standard nuts - lefty loosey. Did Honda really reverse the threads on the 1100?
 
ST1100Y said:
Then it won't be possible to pull the prop-shaft off the output...
And as long as that didn't happen not enough clearance to get the swing-arm off the pivots...
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for update appreciated hope you have Blessed weekend safe Riding Dude!
 
SMSW said:
I don't understand your position, and while this is an 1100 question, my 1300's final drive was held on by standard nuts - lefty loosey. Did Honda really reverse the threads on the 1100?
Click to expand...
Doubt it , just if you don't know you don't know there fairly Rusted on 26 yrs just wanted to make sure as I will be trying to loosen from Behind so will seem as am turning right correct? as wheel & other bits As well, tank fairings seat etc.. taken off in horse box Very Limited Space! Thanks for the Input Also this Forum Brilliant lots of Replys / Help as a question about a Honda Cbr600 problem 3 weeks ago on CBR Forum not one Reply figured since I Broke the Clutch Pin Rod lifter Reinstalling clutch case have another now just getting the Time , apart from Riding the CBR 6 wks ago home 50 km that's all the 2 wheel Action have gotten in the past year & the Weather here in Ireland has been Unsusaly Baking Heat!
 
Get some pentrating oil on and let it soak into the threads for a while and make sure that your wrench is a superb fit.
And a tip from @Igofar : apply the correct amount of pressure and don't try to increase it. Just maintain the same pressure. The nut/bolt yields after a while.

If one of them is tight, then undo that first. Slackening the others first will only make the other one harder to undo.
You can observe this effect when you tighten the fork leg pinch bolts. Do the first up to 22Nm, then the second to 22Nm. The first will then tighten a bit more. Then the second will tighten a bit more etc. The second bolt takes some of the load off the first.​

So if you get one nut moving, don't take it off - put some penetrating oil on the thread and tighten it up again. Do the same with the others until you have moved all 4 nuts. Then undo them and remove them. Make sure that you clean the threads afterwards, remove the rust and leave them unlubricated and dry.

If you do not know what the correct amount of pressure is, and they are tightened to 65Nm, then get a nut and bolt with about the same diameter thread and lock the bolt in a vice. Tighten it to 65Nm. Then lean on it a little harder so that it just starts turning (so maybe about 70Nm). That is should give you a feel for how much effort is required to undo the final drive nuts.

So you are putting the socket and wrench on the nut and facing the back of the bike. The wrench / spanner is going to be pushed down as it sticks out away from the final drive. You are turning the nut anti-clockwise. Some of that force is going to try to lever the socket off the nut - so you may need to support the extension or the head of the wrench so that it cannot do that. I always hold the extension with my other hand - but a hydraulic jack could offer the support you need - so that all of the force is turning force - not forcing the socket / wrench off the nut.

And yes - one of them is very awkward to get at. I wish I could remember what tool I used - but it must be nearly 20 years ago since I did this for the last time. But I remember one being awkward.

Sometimes a little heat helps - but be careful how you do that - naked flame near penterating oil may not be the best combination in the world.
 
Last edited:
HondaDreams78 said:
Doubt it , just if you don't know you don't know there fairly Rusted on 26 yrs just wanted to make sure as I will be trying to loosen from Behind so will seem as am turning right correct? as wheel & other bits As well, tank fairings seat etc.. taken off in horse box Very Limited Space! Thanks for the Input Also this Forum Brilliant lots of Replys / Help as a question about a Honda Cbr600 problem 3 weeks ago on CBR Forum not one Reply figured since I Broke the Clutch Pin Rod lifter Reinstalling clutch case have another now just getting the Time , apart from Riding the CBR 6 wks ago home 50 km that's all the 2 wheel Action have gotten in the past year & the Weather here in Ireland has been Unsusaly Baking Heat!
Click to expand...
Got you. Yes, facing the nut, lefty loosey, looking at it from the other side, turn to right. Sorry, I did not understand what you meant. Read John Heath's comments in post #13 - much more complete than my suggestions.
 
HondaDreams78 said:
Hi Good Folks of the Honda ST1100 world can anybody tell me if a certain batch of the Bike were recalled because the Swingarm had been welded on in Error? As I can't seem to free my one on a 1999, Now the Reason am going at it is Because the Final drive Hub needs replacing have drained , nuts are rusted aqward no room in Horse box looking to Take off with SA , have brake lines out of way as well as tank , pivot nut/ bolts both sides, I can move it left & right , up & down just not out & off, over 3 hrs on cpl separate occasions now, seems as if it is held up in the Corner with final Drive Housing with boot on it connected to Engine Block , & the Lip that SA sits into on frame , have sprayed wd-40 into it cpl times , Any ideas what's keeping me Frustrated please?
Click to expand...
Have Managed to get 3 bolts undone from final drive after removing right hand exhaust silencer looking from the BBC back. but the top left one is made out of soft cheese as mentioned by other users , rounded off, will go at it tomorrow with the Dremel drill, hopefully after the 4 nuts off it will allow SA to be free the joys of owning a 26 yrs old motorcycle,
 
HondaDreams78 said:
Have Managed to get 3 bolts undone from final drive after removing right hand exhaust silencer looking from the back. but the top left one is made out of soft cheese as mentioned by other users , rounded off, will go at it tomorrow with the Dremel drill, hopefully after the 4 nuts off it will allow SA to be free the joys of owning a 26 yrs old motorcycle,
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom