switchback how to

[kenG]

hi, has anyone done a diagram or "how to" on fitting the type 2 switchback LED's?? there are a couple of vids on youtube, that don't give enough info

i'm thinking of installing it on the front of my pan/st11 on regular amber lens then maybe dulling the voltage with a tiny screw adjust resistor/potentiometer so it looks like dull orange marker lights, then flashing indicators.

what do i need? relays , flasher units, type of bulb holder that fits in , etc.

cheers and thanks in advance.

 

[ST Gui]

There's not much to it. The two kits I tried (and most of them I bet) include load resistors because the LEDs don't draw enough power to cycle the directional flasher properly (you get "hyper-flash"). And electronic flasher give the proper flash rate and no resistors are needed.

Order a set of clear lenses from any of the sellers on ebay with a great rating. I think they all come from one shop in China and are sold by a hundred different vendors. The overall quality is not on a par with Honda's stuff. If you saw the amazing work done on the ST1100's clear lenses do not expect that from the 1300's aftermarket lenses. But they're good enough. They require some work with a small knife and/or file to properly shape the opening for the bulb socket. Not a big deal. About $25.

Pull the mirror assemblies off. Remove three or four screws then pull out the old lens assemblies and in with the new. Done.

Buy an electronic flasher/relay. A 2-pin plug n play relay is just $10 or so plus tax and shipping. The OEM hides under the left panel opposite the battery cover (which is on the right side). Left and right here are interchangeable with port and starboard. Under the left/starboard cover look to the right of all the stuff underneath and you'll see a cluster of relays. The one you want will be buried in the very back on (again) the right of the cluster. Unplug it and plug in the electronic relay. Button up and you're done.

Order a pair of LEDs from your favorite source. I'm going to try Fyre Flys again. Pull out the OEM incandescents and plug-in the LEDs. Done. About $30-$60.

The most involved part for me was finding and replacing the relay and there wasn't much to that. This is an IICDIAC project.


I used this electronic flasher: http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm but the price has jumped up to $25!
This looks to be identical for $9: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-accessories/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/#/tab/Reviews

These are the SwitchBacks I first used and am about to order again: http://shop.fyreflys.com/Dual-Color-Switchback-60-LED-Turn-Signal-Resistors-DC60.htm $56 For my second pair I went with a cheaper brand that would shutdown completely after 15min. Sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes you don't.

 

[ST Gui]

Uh oh. Forget everything I just posted. I see you've got a UK 1100. Mea culpa I didn't catch that.

There's a couple of threads here about converting your two-wire sockets to three wire sockets which is the first step. The 1100 uses a different bulb base too. A search should turn them up.

Look for the thread on the clear 1100 lenses if you haven't seen it already.


This thread is a good place to start: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/sh...ear-lenses-for-the-front-turninglights-ST1100

Ad is responsible for getting clear lenses for the ST1100. Their quality is far and away superior to what we have for the 1300.

In the thread is a post by another very knowledgable rider ST1100Y. He has some information about parts for converting the UK 2-wire harness/socket to the US 3-wire socket which is needed for the switchback LEDs.

I don't know if the flasher fitment is the same for the 1100 vs 1300 or UK vs US. Shipping and Customs from the US can be prohibitive but I still recommend the FyreFlys Switchbacks.

 

[kenG]

i thought that,
i'm thinging - change 2pin harness to 3 pin, (need a part number for direct fit)
order the require 2 colour led's
fit resistors as i'm only doing the front (not sure if that matters)
stay orange lens. and fit a switch for the DRL option (1. for MOT-uk) (2. i think the lens kit is too expensive at the moment)
fit a dropper/porentiometer/resistor to make the DRL just glow, then when indicating the light is much brighter on one side.
plenty of uk trucks use front marker lights in orange without a hastle, but i do see them being too bright and needing some tinkering in my modification.

i would also prefer to have a plug in 2 pin to 3 pin adaptor to avoid altering the bike loom (if possible)

i can picture what i want in my head, not sure if its clear written lol .

currently fitted LED bar under my mirrors and if i do this modification the idea is to remove them. (see pic)

 

[ST Gui]

Ok if you're going to keep the orange lenses why would you want switchbacks? They're only feature/advantage is the 2 colors to show white light as running lights being clear lenses. Otherwise you have white light behind orange lenses. And coupled with resistors I see no net gain. Using them is like having two lights attached but hidden from view. Pretty much a waste of electricity and LED efficiency. The switchbacks should be the last part of the equation if at all in your case.

I believe ST1100Y posted a part number for the 3-wire sockets which would give you running lights with a simple incandescent bulb change. If your tail light/brake light uses one bulb that would work for your front turn signals/running lights. No resistors no electronic flasher. A dual-function LED would be more appropriate that a dual-color LED.

My dos centavos would be to get the sockets first. I don't know if anybody makes an adapter. Either way get the sockets installed and use a standard bulb.

Second if you're not ever going to clear lenses and want LEDs get them dual function and an electronic flasher. Otherwise stick with an 1157 incandescent or whatever the equiv. is on your side.

Third and only third consider if you want clear lenses at all. They'll work with the incandescent bulbs and you can upgrade those to SwitchBacks later (Fourth).

Decide after your installation if you need to add a pot or resistor to dim the DRL.

 

[kenG]

thanks ST Gui, that is simpler.
3 wire socket , with regular 21/5w bulb. so no relay or resistors.
and the 5w side of the bulb could be dimmed on one split feed from the side/park light. (with a switch for MOT)

sometimes here in the UK a amber light on the front stands out more from a distance, (or someone thinks "*** is this ejit got on his bike coming towards me") white now fades into the lost sight zone of these new DRL's. i certainly find bikes much hardr to see in traffic now among cars as i drive, especially if i glance in my mirror and see lights, but miss a filtering bike.

so i'm thinking of how i see different colours standing out.

those led lights i have under my mirrors are ok, but they tend to point down and be lost while braking as i approach a junction. they're only seen from a long distance away.
as said, the orange is higher and i'm hopeing, may just be seen easier.

thanks, i'll give that a go, and get a vid up before it comes out of hibernation.

 

[ST1100Y]

...amber light on the front stands out more from a distance, white now fades into the lost sight zone of these new DRL's...

Exactly my thoughts on this issue (running 21/5W bulbs in there since '92/'93), also since I came down a narrow alley at night and an oncoming car nearly took my mirror casing off... :roll:

P/N for the 3-pin sockets is 33405-MT3-671
http://www.cmsnl.com/products/socket-bulb-3p_33405mt3671/#.Vppjw1Ik1gs
link for reference only, also DS carries them.

Its not a straight plug & play though, as the 2-pin plug of our EC-spec wiring harness won't fit; either come up with your own set (like 2.8mm crimp connectors and fixate them with a glue-gun), or stray though some car breakers and nick the 3-pin tail-light plugs with some cable on from a Mitsubishi.
Feed the 5W side from the pilot/side/parking light at the bottom of the headlight assy, switch optional; also our MOT equivalent objects on forward facing amber light and asks if I could deactivate them... a simple "of course sir!" pacifies the engineer most of the time...


On my second, '94 ST (already "outstanding" in day-glow lime livery, rear gantry, amber strobes, wig-wag headlights, etc...) I do consider tinkering with the clear lenses and some type-2 switchback LEDs... still on the back-burner, but dawning...

 

[kenG]

i currently have my LED's under the mirrors wired fron the side/parking light under the headlight, no switch, CE marked branded RING-UK lights and went through MOT without an issue.
they did check they were CE marked, then piffled about boys coming in with crap from china. they're tightening down on lights here, especially cheap fit HID crapkitz.

just found a post of someone who's done this on google search while looking for a 3 pin-socket and i also found a 12v 21/6w small glass bulb.
here http://my-mc-phoenix.com/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=12476&start=30

ST1100Y, hows the 21/5w for brightness on the 5w,, bit high? ok? should i reduce the voltage to it?

 

[ST1100Y]

they're tightening down on lights here, especially cheap fit HID crapkitz.

Understandable and be glad their doing that, over here you get annoyingly dazzled just everywhere... demographic situation doesn't help there either...

just found a post of someone who's done this on google search while looking for a 3 pin-socket and i also found a 12v 21/6w small glass bulb.

He used taillight sockets, which is why he needed to cut the turn-signal case so the twist-lock will fit; above P/N with fit straight on.

ST1100Y, hows the 21/5w for brightness on the 5w,, bit high? ok? should i reduce the voltage to it?

Nah, not needed, 5W make beautiful side/running lights, glowing behind the amber lenses, but especially at dawn and during the night nicely visible marker lights, informing what's approaching here.

 

[kenG]

well the link is a guide only, i will try to get honda stop tail sockets as there is a breaker about 10m away,,
5w it will be then :capwin:

 

[kenG]

well, no lights in the breakers, but got a rear st1100 loom to the lights for ?2 on ebay,
but, must have been a different year or an import, and the fit wasn't right.
mine is 4 point push in and turn, with one a bit bigger, the one i got was 3 point push in and turn in with one a bit bigger.

* so i cut off the small "lugs", and used the large one and a tiny screw opposite, with rubber seal, its a tight fit anyway.

*soldered in to indicators and shrink wrapped. leaving the original plug just tucked in behind the mirror

* and took a vee test video, (work in progress) i'v still it get a tiny switch for the side box to turn off the 5w power for uk MOT.


[video=youtube;VaIlohTQQtk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaIlohTQQtk[/video]

 

[kenG]

5w side light & 2x5w amber indicator(markers) & under mirror 2x5w-DRL's
outside at night , quite bright.
-
-
-
as above with dip(low) beam (on chinese blue- "ultra bright 2x H4's")55/65w
-
-
i hate meeting those dam hid's, usually ill-fitted and glaring. so i refuse to use them. they're illegal in the UK anyway.
-
just have to practice my SMIDSY more often
-

 

[zuke]

There's not much to it. The two kits I tried (and most of them I bet) include load resistors because the LEDs don't draw enough power to cycle the directional flasher properly (you get "hyper-flash"). And electronic flasher give the proper flash rate and no resistors are needed.

Order a set of clear lenses from any of the sellers on ebay with a great rating. I think they all come from one shop in China and are sold by a hundred different vendors. The overall quality is not on a par with Honda's stuff. If you saw the amazing work done on the ST1100's clear lenses do not expect that from the 1300's aftermarket lenses. But they're good enough. They require some work with a small knife and/or file to properly shape the opening for the bulb socket. Not a big deal. About $25.

Pull the mirror assemblies off. Remove three or four screws then pull out the old lens assemblies and in with the new. Done.

Buy an electronic flasher/relay. A 2-pin plug n play relay is just $10 or so plus tax and shipping. The OEM hides under the left panel opposite the battery cover (which is on the right side). Left and right here are interchangeable with port and starboard. Under the left/starboard cover look to the right of all the stuff underneath and you'll see a cluster of relays. The one you want will be buried in the very back on (again) the right of the cluster. Unplug it and plug in the electronic relay. Button up and you're done.

Order a pair of LEDs from your favorite source. I'm going to try Fyre Flys again. Pull out the OEM incandescents and plug-in the LEDs. Done. About $30-$60.

The most involved part for me was finding and replacing the relay and there wasn't much to that. This is an IICDIAC project.


I used this electronic flasher: http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm but the price has jumped up to $25!
This looks to be identical for $9: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-accessories/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/#/tab/Reviews

These are the SwitchBacks I first used and am about to order again: http://shop.fyreflys.com/Dual-Color-Switchback-60-LED-Turn-Signal-Resistors-DC60.htm $56 For my second pair I went with a cheaper brand that would shutdown completely after 15min. Sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes you don't.

Done the convention from 2 wire to3 wire connection for my front indicator light for my ST1300A UK spec (2010). Now trying to figure out where to connect my third wire for the running light.