The Big Bend
March 2023
There’s a tree out in the backyard
That never has been broken by the wind
And the reason it’s still standing
It was strong enough to bend
Tanya Tucker
Recently, I had about a week of Dual Sport riding in the Big Bend National Park. My good buddy Josh, a school principal from Illinois, just bought a new to him Honda CRF 450 RL and was itching to take it somewhere for his Spring Break. Another buddy, Preston from Alabama, expressed interest in joining us. As did AJ, our friend from the Albuquerque, NM area. Finally, two other buddies, John from South Dakota, and Kevin from North Dakota, timed their return from Baja, Mexico to join us as well. The internet is not all bad – it can bring 6 friends together from all over the country.
Finding a camp site within the National Park was impossible, so AJ, Preston, Josh, and I camped at the Rancho Topanga campground just outside of Terlingua, TX:
This is a fine campground for motorcyclists of all kinds. The sites are quite large with spacious flat areas to pitch your tent, and with plenty of ground between sites for some privacy. Each site has a nice large picnic table and a fire ring. Plenty of room to park the trucks, trailers, etc. We had water on the site, and the owners placed us conveniently right next to a bath house with good hot showers, spotless toilets, and a couple of electrical receptacles to charge the phone, etc. At $15.00 per person per night, I don’t think you could ask for more.
Spring Break is a terrific time to explore Big Bend before it gets unbearably hot in south Texas. BION, we all ran through a light snow getting to the area. The next day it was cold, but manageable. Thereafter, the temperature was terrific, warming into the 80s during the day, and cooling off to the 50s for a nice sleep in the tent. On one night, we got a light sprinkling of rain, hardly enough to even dampen the ground. Otherwise, it was bone dry. Big Bend is a great place to go play in the early Spring.
I rode my Suzuki DR650 about 750 miles over 5 days while there, roughly split even between pavement and off-road riding. On my Yamaha FJR, I can certainly do more, but 150 miles in a day feels about right on the Dual Sport for me. I’m learning that the D/S is a different kind of riding. It’s more enjoyed going slow and stopping often to sniff around. It’s definitely more physical while actually riding, but perhaps a bit less stressful overall, as you don’t have to worry much about other vehicles when off road. I like D/S riding a lot.
I don’t care much for this new “country/rock” stuff on the radio, but I do like “classic country”. The words from the old tunes speak to me. Ms. Tucker certainly has a way with her lyrics.
On this trip, Big Bend reminded me to Bend and avoid breaking. I hope you enjoy the pics.
Day 1: 540 miles by Truck, Lafayette, LA to Sonora, TX
I loaded the truck on Thursday, anticipating an early departure on Friday. Unfortunately, a line of severe thunderstorms appeared on the radar early in the morning heading my way. I felt it wasn’t safe to take off through that, so I waited a while. We had some minor street flooding in the area and by the time all of that subsided, it was past noon. So I opted to delay my departure a day. This is the beauty of retirement: I don’t have to push that kind of ***** anymore.
Saturday came with much better weather, so I hit the road about 8 am.
I had a choice, but I picked Interstate 10. I figured that if I got through Houston without dying, that would be a sign.
A flatlander lives his life, by definition, in only 2 dimensions. Every time I get to any elevation, I get excited. This is the beginning of what the Texans call Hill Country.
The Motel 6 in Sonora, TX was just perfect. Clean room, park the truck right at the front door, cheap rate.
I was kind of looking forward to Tex Mex, but the hispanic gal at the hotel counter advised me to pass on that and opt for the Pit Stop BBQ. The meat was tender but a bit under seasoned for me. The pinto beans were good, but the highlight of the meal was the cole slaw, made with pineapple chunks.
I’m running a bit low on shampoo. I shall have to remedy that.
I hit the sack to dream about upcoming adventures.
Day 2: 325 miles by Truck, Sonora, TX to Rancho Topanga Campground
No breakfast at the hotel, but the coffee was surprisingly good. I grabbed a second cup for the road, and head west. I stopped in Alpine, TX for some groceries, and the road south from there was quite picturesque. The locals I talked to say it snows at Big Bend only once every 5-7 years. Apparently, yesterday was the day.
I’ve never been to this area before and am enjoying the winter wonderland from the warmth of the truck over dry roads.
I got to the campground about 3 pm. AJ, Josh, and Preston got there yesterday and they were gone, off riding somewhere. By the time I setup my tent, they had returned and things are shaping up nicely.
And with that, Happy Hour was official underway.
I enjoy cooking while I moto-camp, but uncharacteristically on this trip, I didn’t get a chance. The others volunteered to prepare our meals, and so all I had to do was show up hungry! Tonight, we are having Chili prepared by Preston.
John and Kevin are staying at a small cabin in Terlingua, but they came over to the campground to join us for dinner.
Damm fine meal on this chilly evening (pun intended).
We got a good fire going after dinner and enjoyed the evening. Tomorrow, we ride!
Day 3: 150 miles (Dual Sport), Big Bend National Park
I didn’t sleep too well in my tent. Usually, I struggle a bit on the first night. So I wake up, make coffee, and sit down to enjoy the view.
Josh and I took a walk around the campground to see what we could see. Things are blooming in the dessert, including these Yucca Plants.
Everything here has stickers.
After breakfast, we all met in Terlingua and headed out for the park.
My first impressions of this place are breathtaking.
Yesterday afternoon, the others tried some local dirt roads and ended up plowing through some mucky stuff still plenty wet from the snow/rain. We learned this morning that many of the unpaved roads in the park are still closed. This whole place needs a little time to dry out, so today we will stick mostly to the pavement. John led us down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. “Scenic “ is a great word to describe this.
We stopped at the Santa Elana Canyon overlook. On the left side is Mexico, ride side is the USA.
This place is enormous.
We back tracked on the Scenic drive a bit and stopped at some places to sniff around.
Nice view at the Visitor’s Center for lunch.
After lunch, we ripped over to the Mule Ears Overlook.
And then it was to another overlook that I can’t remember the name of.
The ole Bush Pig is still clean … for now.
At one point, Preston, Josh, and I pressed forward a bit up the road. The views here are stupendous.
Soon, the others caught up.
We rode down to Panther Junction and realized that it was already late in the afternoon. So we decided to try a couple of short unpaved “out and back” roads to see how it was drying.
This is Grapevine Spring road.
And this is Paint Gap Road. Kevin rode this on his Super Tenere, which was very impressive to me. Tomorrow, he will take the Beta.
It wasn’t much, but at least we got some dust on the tires.
We pulled back into the campground about 6:30 pm, grabbed some quick showers, and then drove over to Terlingua Ghost Town to eat.
The Starlight Theatre has been in operation for about 100 years, going back to the days when Cinnabar was mined here. John got here ahead of us and put us on the waiting list.
I’ll have to settle for crappy beer – it’s the best they had.
Does this stool make my ass look big?
I think the Prickly Pear Cactus blooms are the prettiest ones I’ve seen so far.
Soon it was our turn to sit down, and no one went hungry.
I had the Chicken Fried Antelope. It was pretty good.
After dinner, we went back to the campground, lit a fire, and enjoyed the evening.
We came here to ride dirt and gravel. But Mother Nature had other ideas. I had a choice – I could stomp my feet and complain or I could bend a little, roll with it, and just enjoy the pavement.
I chose the latter.
March 2023
There’s a tree out in the backyard
That never has been broken by the wind
And the reason it’s still standing
It was strong enough to bend
Tanya Tucker
Recently, I had about a week of Dual Sport riding in the Big Bend National Park. My good buddy Josh, a school principal from Illinois, just bought a new to him Honda CRF 450 RL and was itching to take it somewhere for his Spring Break. Another buddy, Preston from Alabama, expressed interest in joining us. As did AJ, our friend from the Albuquerque, NM area. Finally, two other buddies, John from South Dakota, and Kevin from North Dakota, timed their return from Baja, Mexico to join us as well. The internet is not all bad – it can bring 6 friends together from all over the country.
Finding a camp site within the National Park was impossible, so AJ, Preston, Josh, and I camped at the Rancho Topanga campground just outside of Terlingua, TX:
This is a fine campground for motorcyclists of all kinds. The sites are quite large with spacious flat areas to pitch your tent, and with plenty of ground between sites for some privacy. Each site has a nice large picnic table and a fire ring. Plenty of room to park the trucks, trailers, etc. We had water on the site, and the owners placed us conveniently right next to a bath house with good hot showers, spotless toilets, and a couple of electrical receptacles to charge the phone, etc. At $15.00 per person per night, I don’t think you could ask for more.
Spring Break is a terrific time to explore Big Bend before it gets unbearably hot in south Texas. BION, we all ran through a light snow getting to the area. The next day it was cold, but manageable. Thereafter, the temperature was terrific, warming into the 80s during the day, and cooling off to the 50s for a nice sleep in the tent. On one night, we got a light sprinkling of rain, hardly enough to even dampen the ground. Otherwise, it was bone dry. Big Bend is a great place to go play in the early Spring.
I rode my Suzuki DR650 about 750 miles over 5 days while there, roughly split even between pavement and off-road riding. On my Yamaha FJR, I can certainly do more, but 150 miles in a day feels about right on the Dual Sport for me. I’m learning that the D/S is a different kind of riding. It’s more enjoyed going slow and stopping often to sniff around. It’s definitely more physical while actually riding, but perhaps a bit less stressful overall, as you don’t have to worry much about other vehicles when off road. I like D/S riding a lot.
I don’t care much for this new “country/rock” stuff on the radio, but I do like “classic country”. The words from the old tunes speak to me. Ms. Tucker certainly has a way with her lyrics.
On this trip, Big Bend reminded me to Bend and avoid breaking. I hope you enjoy the pics.
Day 1: 540 miles by Truck, Lafayette, LA to Sonora, TX
I loaded the truck on Thursday, anticipating an early departure on Friday. Unfortunately, a line of severe thunderstorms appeared on the radar early in the morning heading my way. I felt it wasn’t safe to take off through that, so I waited a while. We had some minor street flooding in the area and by the time all of that subsided, it was past noon. So I opted to delay my departure a day. This is the beauty of retirement: I don’t have to push that kind of ***** anymore.
Saturday came with much better weather, so I hit the road about 8 am.

I had a choice, but I picked Interstate 10. I figured that if I got through Houston without dying, that would be a sign.
A flatlander lives his life, by definition, in only 2 dimensions. Every time I get to any elevation, I get excited. This is the beginning of what the Texans call Hill Country.

The Motel 6 in Sonora, TX was just perfect. Clean room, park the truck right at the front door, cheap rate.
I was kind of looking forward to Tex Mex, but the hispanic gal at the hotel counter advised me to pass on that and opt for the Pit Stop BBQ. The meat was tender but a bit under seasoned for me. The pinto beans were good, but the highlight of the meal was the cole slaw, made with pineapple chunks.

I’m running a bit low on shampoo. I shall have to remedy that.

I hit the sack to dream about upcoming adventures.
Day 2: 325 miles by Truck, Sonora, TX to Rancho Topanga Campground
No breakfast at the hotel, but the coffee was surprisingly good. I grabbed a second cup for the road, and head west. I stopped in Alpine, TX for some groceries, and the road south from there was quite picturesque. The locals I talked to say it snows at Big Bend only once every 5-7 years. Apparently, yesterday was the day.

I’ve never been to this area before and am enjoying the winter wonderland from the warmth of the truck over dry roads.

I got to the campground about 3 pm. AJ, Josh, and Preston got there yesterday and they were gone, off riding somewhere. By the time I setup my tent, they had returned and things are shaping up nicely.

And with that, Happy Hour was official underway.

I enjoy cooking while I moto-camp, but uncharacteristically on this trip, I didn’t get a chance. The others volunteered to prepare our meals, and so all I had to do was show up hungry! Tonight, we are having Chili prepared by Preston.

John and Kevin are staying at a small cabin in Terlingua, but they came over to the campground to join us for dinner.
Damm fine meal on this chilly evening (pun intended).

We got a good fire going after dinner and enjoyed the evening. Tomorrow, we ride!

Day 3: 150 miles (Dual Sport), Big Bend National Park
I didn’t sleep too well in my tent. Usually, I struggle a bit on the first night. So I wake up, make coffee, and sit down to enjoy the view.

Josh and I took a walk around the campground to see what we could see. Things are blooming in the dessert, including these Yucca Plants.


Everything here has stickers.


After breakfast, we all met in Terlingua and headed out for the park.

My first impressions of this place are breathtaking.

Yesterday afternoon, the others tried some local dirt roads and ended up plowing through some mucky stuff still plenty wet from the snow/rain. We learned this morning that many of the unpaved roads in the park are still closed. This whole place needs a little time to dry out, so today we will stick mostly to the pavement. John led us down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. “Scenic “ is a great word to describe this.

We stopped at the Santa Elana Canyon overlook. On the left side is Mexico, ride side is the USA.

This place is enormous.

We back tracked on the Scenic drive a bit and stopped at some places to sniff around.



Nice view at the Visitor’s Center for lunch.

After lunch, we ripped over to the Mule Ears Overlook.

And then it was to another overlook that I can’t remember the name of.

The ole Bush Pig is still clean … for now.

At one point, Preston, Josh, and I pressed forward a bit up the road. The views here are stupendous.

Soon, the others caught up.

We rode down to Panther Junction and realized that it was already late in the afternoon. So we decided to try a couple of short unpaved “out and back” roads to see how it was drying.
This is Grapevine Spring road.


And this is Paint Gap Road. Kevin rode this on his Super Tenere, which was very impressive to me. Tomorrow, he will take the Beta.


It wasn’t much, but at least we got some dust on the tires.

We pulled back into the campground about 6:30 pm, grabbed some quick showers, and then drove over to Terlingua Ghost Town to eat.

The Starlight Theatre has been in operation for about 100 years, going back to the days when Cinnabar was mined here. John got here ahead of us and put us on the waiting list.
I’ll have to settle for crappy beer – it’s the best they had.

Does this stool make my ass look big?

I think the Prickly Pear Cactus blooms are the prettiest ones I’ve seen so far.

Soon it was our turn to sit down, and no one went hungry.

I had the Chicken Fried Antelope. It was pretty good.

After dinner, we went back to the campground, lit a fire, and enjoyed the evening.
We came here to ride dirt and gravel. But Mother Nature had other ideas. I had a choice – I could stomp my feet and complain or I could bend a little, roll with it, and just enjoy the pavement.
I chose the latter.