The Saga of the IGOFAR/Shuey/Valker/Lee T ST 1300 - How can such a well kept bike be cursed?

SMSW said:
I had a lot of difficulty getting my 1300 up on the center stand until I bought a modified one from a guy here. He had purchased a used center stand, cut the foot pedal off and had his BIL weld in a 3" extension, making the foot pedal arm longer and increasing the lever arm. I had the whole thing powder coated and installed it on my bike. Voila, putting the bike up on the new center stand was doable without a board. The extended arm did infringe upon the space taken by a passenger's foot, but I ride alone.
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Gota picture?
 
drrod said:
You still are using the large muscle groups of the legs and not using your back. Your hands are free to help you maintain balance of both you and the bike.
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That would definitely be a huge plus. Lifting it up high enough then turning around to right it the rest of the way is simple. Maybe for some but a bit unnerving from my perspective. Hopefully there's no Pop-Go-the-Clavicles. But it looks like the traps bear the brunt. Good quads still a must.
 
Donk said:
Might have something to do with how far the weight is above the axles? It may also depend on where the pivot point of the centerstand is on the frame and the overall length of the stand?
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I wouldn't think the height above the axles would make much if any difference in the degree of difficulty. But the pivot point of the stand in relation to the engine would really make a difference. The farther back it is the less the weight of the engine would affect levering up the bike. The farther forward the more Herculean effort would be required. I once put my 750-4 and later my GL-1000 on a scale one wheel at a time. In both cases the "front wheel" weighed more than the rear indicating a forward bias of the total weight.

I know someone who found putting his GoldWing on the center stand easier than putting my 1300 on its. I never thought to compare the location of the center stand's pivot. Nor the end of the lever compared to that of the ST.

I found having 42lbs in the tires at the start of the day and 3 bars on the gas gauge at the end of the day made getting it on the center stand doable without drama. It makes doing it look easier than it is at least.
 
Let me know if you have used a Motobikejack also, I made one and had some tips on using mine.
Make sure you tie onto the bike as high as possible and pack your jacket between the strap and side, this gives the strap more bend to straighten out
Without getting to deep into how it works, you are raising the bike by straightening the sides of the strap more than lifting. once you get to a certain point it is easy to raise the bike to upright. If you keep on trying after reaching the point it becomes very hard to crank more into it. Also pause to lift it a bit as you go. Assisting helps ease the climb up
Also I was practicing on a Dual-sport which are really tall, the website shows one,.
I had to practice a bunch to get it right.
If you get one, practice before you need it, not when. REALLY REALLY, can't stress it enough. There are too many bikes to have a universal hook up point. The KLR has a lot of exposed points, my Concours has them under the seat. Haven't tried the ST yet and don't own a cruiser. There are some short tie-down loops that you should get to toss in the bag as well as a section of heavy leather to place between the straps and body work and seat.
 
Donk said:
and the overall length of the stand?
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I missed that bit. Yes that would definitely affect the ease of getting on the stand. The longer the stand the greater the arc of travel and the more grunt needed.

I had a Bates Ride-Off center stand on my GL that attached to the frame forward of the engine.

It was the best mod. The two feet were heavily spring loaded and adjustable for height. Pushing the stand down and rolling the bike back compressed the two spring loaded feet. There was a resistance felt as the feet were compressed but nothing like putting on the factory stand.

The bike was then even more planted (lol) than with the factory center stand as the R-O's feet were probably twice as wide as the factory stand making four contact points with the ground.

As the name implies just start the bike and ride off. It was a blast to be sitting on the bike feet on pegs which at a quick glance appeared to be on the bike's center stand. Then without taking my feet off the pegs I just road off. Only once did someone notice that after backing the bike up it remained upright when I put my feet on the pegs.
 
The higher the weight is above the axles the more awkward the bike will feel as you lift it as CG is higher. Try putting a big tall Adventure bike on the center stand compared to a shorter bike of the same weight.
 
Donk said:
The higher the weight is above the axles the more awkward the bike will feel as you lift it as CG is higher. Try putting a big tall Adventure bike on the center stand compared to a shorter bike of the same weight.
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I don't see the science in that. A taller bike or one with a higher CG might be more awkward only to "line up" ie getting both feet of the center stand on the ground. But once that's done gravity should affect the bike regardless of high or low its CG.

A big tall Adventure bike might be more difficult to center stand but I'd guess height above the axels itself isn't the culprit one the feet are down. I see this as lifting two poles of the same weight but of slightly different heights as in differing weights above bike axels. The taller pole might be more difficult to right upright to a bipod platform. But once done why/how is it harder to lift.

If you're referring to the overall process of putting it on the center stand then yes I'll stipulate that Phase 1 could be more awkward. I don't see how Phase 2 of actually lifting the bike would be different.
 
I do not believe I said or implied there was any science to it. :D

Yeah let's go back to talking about the bike.
 
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