Throttle rotation is excessive. Any remedies?

ST1100TX

ST1100TX

Joined
Aug 1, 2024
Messages
190
Age
68
Location
Kerrville, Texas
I don't like the amount of rotation that my throttle requires. When just cruising at a moderate speed, my hand is in a decent position, but if I want to accelerate to pass, maintain speed on a hill, etc. I have to rotate the throttle too much which places my wrist in an awkward bend. Many times, I end up "walking" the throttle with my hand to put it in a comfortable position. My Blackbird throttle travel is worlds shorter and I never have to reposition my hand no matter what.

Is this a problem for anyone else here and is there a solution that can reduce the rotational travel distance of the throttle?

Thanks!
 
I haven’t had that issue….mostly because I’m in a gear appropriate to my throttle hand if I need to “give er”. IMO I see a lot of riders constantly looking for 6th gear because they switched it in 5th at 2900rpm.
Explore the rev range, there’s really no need to go into 5th at 55mph (90km)…..
If you drop it down a peg before accelerating hard, the throttle travel is minimal, and the 1100 just rockets. The power comes in at 5k rpm….just sayin’
 
kiltman said:
I haven’t had that issue….mostly because I’m in a gear appropriate to my throttle hand if I need to “give er”. IMO I see a lot of riders constantly looking for 6th gear because they switched it in 5th at 2900rpm.
Explore the rev range, there’s really no need to go into 5th at 55mph (90km)…..
If you drop it down a peg before accelerating hard, the throttle travel is minimal, and the 1100 just rockets. The power comes in at 5k rpm….just sayin’
Click to expand...
I like to cruise in the 4K-5K RPM range and downshift when needed to keep it there.

I had a '91 and I think the throttle was an issue for me then as well. It could be affected by the position of the handgrips and the way I'm holding my arms. I dunno.

I'm just used to getting a larger range of speed without twisting the throttle as far.

Yes, the ST1100 is no slouch in accelerating when I give it the beans.
 
Willsmotorcycle said:
The may seem strange, ill guess you hold the grip like this:

IMG_8265.jpeg

Try holding it like this, it will also force your elbow out and take the strain of the wrist:

IMG_8266.jpeg
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip. I posted my remarks about the position of my hands/arms prior to reading this. Interesting.

I'm holding the handgrips the way I do on my 'Bird, but the position of my body is much different on that bike. I also ride with two fingers on the clutch and brake levers like I do on the 'Bird.

I have heli-bars on this ST and the vertical tubes are down as far as they can go without fouling the tank cover. At this height, I have the handgrips and levers angled in such a way to keep them from fouling the fairing and pinching my fingers. I may need to make some changes with this.

I wish I could ride an ST with stock handlebars to see if that setup makes a difference.
 
I just rotated the front brake assembly downward which changed the position of the brake lever. I think the new position may help resolve the throttle issue since it allows me to place my hand further forward on the grip at closed throttle while my two fingers are on the lever. This simple change allows me to rotate the throttle further while bending my wrist less. At least that's what it feels like sitting on the bike. I'll find out when I go for a ride and report the results.
 
Murray's carbs has a quick ratio throttle sleeve, sorry don't know how to link his website. If you go to Cx/Gl forum he is listed as a Vendor
 
ST1100TX said:
I don't like the amount of rotation that my throttle requires. When just cruising at a moderate speed, my hand is in a decent position, but if I want to accelerate to pass, maintain speed on a hill, etc. I have to rotate the throttle too much which places my wrist in an awkward bend. Many times, I end up "walking" the throttle with my hand to put it in a comfortable position. My Blackbird throttle travel is worlds shorter and I never have to reposition my hand no matter what.

Is this a problem for anyone else here and is there a solution that can reduce the rotational travel distance of the throttle?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
it may have a throttle tamer installed

G2 Tamer Throttle Tube for Honda Street Motorcycles​

The G2 Throttle Tamer Tube for Honda Street Motorcycles incorporates a progressive ratio between right hand rotation and carburetor or EFI opening. By altering the conventional, circular shaped pulley, there is a vast improvement in control. The snatchy/jerky power characteristic common with Honda (and most other modern fuel injected street motorcycles) is drastically reduced.

The G2 Tamer Throttle Tube has a pulley with a “ramped shape”. This shape requires a slightly farther turn to reach the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. For this reason, the jerky “throttle snatch” of fuel injected street bikes is drastically reduced.

The radius increases, or ramps up, at about halfway into the throttle range. Because of this, overall rotation required to reach full throttle is similar to stock.
 
Al st1100 said:
it may have a throttle tamer installed

G2 Tamer Throttle Tube for Honda Street Motorcycles​

The G2 Throttle Tamer Tube for Honda Street Motorcycles incorporates a progressive ratio between right hand rotation and carburetor or EFI opening. By altering the conventional, circular shaped pulley, there is a vast improvement in control. The snatchy/jerky power characteristic common with Honda (and most other modern fuel injected street motorcycles) is drastically reduced.

The G2 Tamer Throttle Tube has a pulley with a “ramped shape”. This shape requires a slightly farther turn to reach the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. For this reason, the jerky “throttle snatch” of fuel injected street bikes is drastically reduced.

The radius increases, or ramps up, at about halfway into the throttle range. Because of this, overall rotation required to reach full throttle is similar to stock.
Click to expand...
Could be this. I don't know. I don't recall the carbs on the ST ever delivering a jerky throttle response, though. I'm going to see what repositioning my hand on the throttle is since I rotated the brake lever downward. That may put my hand in the sweet spot that I'm looking for based on my favored speed and RPM range.
 
ST1100TX said:
Could be this. I don't know. I don't recall the carbs on the ST ever delivering a jerky throttle response, though.
Click to expand...
All of my bikes except the 1300 have had carburetors and they've never had a jerky tip in. It's the nature of FI of which the 1300 had an early version. This as led a few owners (me included) to get a Throttle Tamer. This is obviously something you don't need.

Open up the throttle pod enough to peek at the tube. If it's white plastic it's probably factory. If it's aluminum there's a good chance it's a G2 Tamer. But it's effect shouldn't be noticeable past quarter throttle or so. I don't know where you're at when in your cruising range.

If it is a G2 you could replace it with a factory tube and possibly sell the G2 here. Of course rotating the brake lever as you did could make this all moot.
 
The tube is white plastic. No discernible slack in the cable.

I'm eager to check out the changes I made. Won't be tomorrow, though.

I got on Murray's Carbs website and couldn't find the quicker throttle mentioned in another post. I'll reach out to them on Monday.
 
ST1100TX said:
Could be this. I don't know. I don't recall the carbs on the ST ever delivering a jerky throttle response, though. I'm going to see what repositioning my hand on the throttle is since I rotated the brake lever downward. That may put my hand in the sweet spot that I'm looking for based on my favored speed and RPM range.
Click to expand...
I think the G2 throttle tamer was primarily for fuel injected STs. When the throttle is opened or closed on a FI bike, the engine sees the gas abruptly turned on or off leading to jerky throttle response. Simply smoothly opening or closing the throttle (a learned skill) solves the problem for many riders. The G2 modifies the ramp or shape of the cam around which the throttle cable is wrapped. It requires more wrist movement to initially open the throttle.
 
I just got back from a 2-hour nonstop ride.

I don't need a quicker throttle. It's ok as is.

The brake lever is rotated down too much. I need to bring it up a bit even though it may foul my fingers on the fairing at full lock.

The position of my hand on the throttle isn't bad at 4-4.5K RPM. I just let off the throttle and reposition my hand if I need to. The engine has plenty of flywheel, so it doesn't slow down much when I do that.

That's all that's fit to print.
 
Peter Hughes said:
Did Throttle rocker and Crampbuster finally resolve their issues, or did the patent on the plastic wrap around bit expire?
Click to expand...

Hi Peter. It’s been a long time…

I vaguely recall a dust up between them but not any resolution. The Throttle Rocker is still for sale and IMHO is the best product.

John
 
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