Vista Cruise Control

Svl-1300

R.I.P 5/9/2009
Rest In Peace
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
79
Location
Spring Valley Lake Ca
Bike
07 ST1300
I went to a local bike shop for a control. They sold me one that doesn't fit. Then I went to my local Honda and they did the same. The one they sold me (fits most Hondas) but not my ST. HELP!! Anyone got a part number.

Thanks, Bill
 

Hi Jed,

If you've got a Dremel, save your money and install the much easier to use thumb-operated Vista Cruise. Here's an old text file of mine that has helped a lot of other folks:

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Subject: ST1100 Vista Cruise Throttle Lock Installation Tips/Notes

I've successfully installed four Vista Cruise (VC) throttle locks and they all had to be "played with" a bit for a good install, especially to eliminate any binding. They can easily be made to operate "as smooth as silk."

[Sep05 - The Vista Cruise model I recommend for the ST1100 is: MCVICY-P. CA Sport Touring sells a 'dual cable' model, their Code#: 168, for the ST1100]

Check first to see if the flange of your ST's grip flange is too wide for the corresponding cutout section on the VC and is binding there. I had to get my Dremel out and remove material from the VC to match the OEM throttle grip's flange on my 91 ST. The VC is made of glass filled Zytel nylon and is easily worked. If it still binds on this end, you should work the grip further out on its sleeve, away from the VC. I had to do this on The Grey GhOOST. I then had to add a washer/shim under the bar-end weight to keep it from binding on THAT end.

Another problem I had with all my VCs was that they weren't clamping the throttle sleeves as well as they should have. For a really positive ON/no-drag OFF -- do this:

Take the thumb lever off the VC, and don't mount the VC's holding bracket yet. Place the VC around the throttle sleeve in its normal location, hold it with your left hand to keep it from rotating and also squeeze it tightly around the throttle sleeve. Then twist the throttle back and forth a number of times against the friction of your applied squeeze. Take the VC off and look at the inner curved edge that contacts the throttle sleeve. The contact/friction points will be shiny. If they aren't readily apparent, sand it lightly and try again. You'll see -- ALL my new VCs "touched" in only a few places.

Get a dowel the size of the sleeve and wrap sandpaper around it. Put the VC around this and while squeezing it closed with hand pressure, twist the rod inside for a while. This will sand the inside surface irregularities off. Put the VC back on the bike, twist the throttle again, take the VC off and recheck to confirm that more of it is contacting the sleeve. Repeat/keep sanding until you have maximum contact.

When you're satisfied, put the VC back on the bike and install the thumb lever. Check the on/off operation while you tighten the lever's adjustment screw. Don't tighten the adjustment screw too much -- you must be able to move the throttle in an emergency while the VC is "on."

Now you can install/adjust the mounting bracket for your 'optimized' VC.

This leads me to another binding problem I had during my ST installation. It was caused by the mounting bracket (which keeps the VC and throttle from rotating when "on"). No matter how hard I tried to "modify" it, the VC canted one way or the other (not exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the throttle sleeve). I finally ended up destroying the bracket so I made my own out of thin sheet-metal (full-size JPEG pattern avail). It was simple to make and it really works slick.

I cut 2 half-circle "notches" in opposite sides of a flat piece of sheet-metal for the throttle cable housings to fit in. I cut off the right angle portion on the bottom of the VC and made a rectangular hole in the sheet-metal projecting out from the underside of the switchgear housing to match it. The mounting plate looks like this:

[edit: I can't get the damn schematic to come out right. Looks just fine in the edit window but not when saved. I've attached something below that should give an idea of what it should look like]

I made the rectangular hole so there is some PLAY allowed parallel to the bar (no binding now) but none in the direction of throttle rotation (precise throttle hold). This lets the VC "float" while OFF but insures a positive lock when ON, with no RPM drop-off.

Final VC installation is then just a matter of dropping the VC's now straight "tab" into this hole and tightening up the throttle cable nuts to hold the new mounting plate tight. Do a final recheck of the thumb lever adjustment screw and you're done. Works like a charm!

BTW, don't put any lube on anything in an attempt to relieve a VC's binding. Its plastic shim doesn't like it..., and a VC should NOT bind "dry" - if installed/adjusted correctly.

HTH

Regards, John OoSTerhuis
STOC 1058
91 ST1100 std, Sparkling Silver Metallic
"The Grey GhOOST"
Bettendorf, Iowa

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Attachments

  • VistaCruiseMountingPlateSchematic.txt
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Thanks for that John, that's likely the route I would take since I'm cheap. I'll save this link for future reference once I am ready for cruise. I've booked many miles in the past without cruise control.

But do you know how well the Throttlemeisters work? They look simple and sound like they would be a direct fit.
 
Thanks for that John, that's likely the route I would take since I'm cheap. I'll save this link for future reference once I am ready for cruise. I've booked many miles in the past without cruise control.

But do you know how well the Throttlemeisters work? They look simple and sound like they would be a direct fit.

Jed. IMO the Throttlemeisters are too expensive, not to mention that they are really hard to work, especially if you have small hands, trying to twist the damn thing on with my stubby little finger. They can also be difficult to use if you have a Throttle Rocker installed. With the VC you just flip your thumb, without any chance of disturbing the handling of the bike.

Sorry, I can't get the damn little ASCII diagram in my text file to show up correctly here on ST-Owners. :confused: Give me your email and I'll send you the txt file as an attachment. [edit: see the attachment I added to my post above] Basically it's just a small triangular shaped plate with notches to fit between the throttle cables and a slot for the VC's tab to fit into.

John
 
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I want to thank everyone for there quick responses. I'm new to this forum and just love it. That said. I am a guy that can't nail two boards together.
So I guess no cruise control for me.

Bill
 
FWIW, you can see my VC in this picture from my XM radio install album:



Looks OEM. :) And here's another pic that just shows the mounting plate under the handlebar (just to the left of my Middleton parking brake lever):



John
 
Your not nice. All I want is a curise control. You do great work! Looks outstanding.

Bill
ex-USAF
10yrs
SSGT
ATC
 
Your not nice. All I want is a curise control. You do great work! Looks outstanding.

Bill
ex-USAF
10yrs
SSGT
ATC

Thanks. Amazing what one can do with some scrap metal, hack saw, bench vice, files, drills, and sandpaper. :) BTW, the VC is really just a throttle lock. Here's a real "cruise control" install that only cost me a few more dollars than a VC:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/553578014cCRzLj

John
MAJ, Avn
US Army, Retired
Master Army Aviator
 
I glued mine on..... No brackets.. Nada..
I did have to trim the flange on the handgrip a bit...

Putt...
 
I have a ThrottleMeister and find it easy to use and it is also hidden, a plus for me. In general I like the ThrottleMeister, but find that at times it slowly slips and the bike slowly slows down (a lot of slows!).
 
Thanks for that John, that's likely the route I would take since I'm cheap. I'll save this link for future reference once I am ready for cruise. I've booked many miles in the past without cruise control.

But do you know how well the Throttlemeisters work? They look simple and sound like they would be a direct fit.

Keep in mind when adpting the VC to the 1300 it will be different than the 1100.It is easy on the 1100 because the cables exit below, the 1300 is more of a challenge because the cables exit to the front, 90 degrees difference. Where that comes into play is the final location of the thumb lever used to activate.
I find the Throttlemeisters work good but do require a little technique.
The Breakaway are nice but expensive around 200.00.

Good luck,

Larry
 

Yup, positioned the Vista Cruise where I wanted it, applied Gorilla glue
to the to the bottom half of the Vista Cruise on the switch boss side,
used some rubber bands to hold it in place till the glue set up...
Don't glue both halves of the Vista Cruise, just the bottom half..
Worked just fine... Even survived the "crash of '07"...

Putt...
 
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