What to check ? Buying an older ST1100

bassman

Joined
Sep 22, 2012
Messages
6
Location
Plant City, FL
Bike
95' ST11
Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and not sure if the is the right place to ask. I am anticipating buying a used ST1100 soon. I would love a new ST1300, but budget only allows an older (91-98) model ST1100. I know the engines are pretty bullet proof, but what other systems/components are typically problematic on these models.

Thanks,

Hal
 
The 28 amper isn't bad, it does the job of running the electrical requirements on the ST. I seem to remember about 10 amps left over. If you're going to run heated gear, grips, extra lights, and/or ??? it may not be adequate. If the 28 amp unit goes out, it is about the same cost to replace it with the newer 40 amper. I think the labor may be a little more but worth it in the long term.

How big are you? What kind of riding are you going to be doing? For sport riding the suspension could use some updating. The front springs are a little soft. The rear shock is good for about 40K miles. The suspension is sufficient for regular riding, especially Florida riding. :D
 
My 91 is still running the 28 amp unit at 75k using heated grips. In Minnesota the grips are on for months at a time.
The only other item I have issues with is the hose back to the coolant tank. A quick & easy fix. Check to see if the
valve clearance has been checked and the belt has been replaced if the miles are up around 80-100K. These bike seems
to run forever. Most get crashed before wearing out.
 
Rear drive splines are VERY important to check, but the wheel has to be pulled. Not something you'd normally ask of the seller.
 
Have the owner pull the left side cover at the battery area and do a visual check on the electrical connections. The 1100's can melt the main connector if it is dirty. If you purchase one with no history records, then it would be wise to drain/purge and replace all liquids at minimum, clean/inspect/lube with dielectric grease all electrical connectors, clean the ground connections. If the bike sat a lot, run some "Seafoam" through the fuel system to clean it out. If it's close to 90k miles, then it will need a timing belt change. The rear wheel drive hub was mentioned, that's important because the splines can prematurely wear, and the match set is expensive.
Hope this helps
 
Ron, I am 5'10" about 185lbs. I will be using the bike to commute, weekend rides and hopefully ride to the mountains in the spring. Maybe a 4 corners tour someday.

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I have a much better idea now of what to look for..maybe also a bargaining chip.
This is a great forum..you guys rock!

Hal

"You meet the nicest people on a Honda"
 
Water pump not common. The coolant hoses and elbows under the carbs are fairly common at the age most of these are now. Not terribly difficult, but quite a time consuming job. (After a good ride you will smell that sweat smell of antifreeze, but won't see any evidence of a leak)

A common one is the coolant overflow hose. It cracks at the radiator cap neck, but is an easy fix, just cut it back an inch or so and re attach. (Not hard to replace either)

Check the swing arm for rust, I wouldn't call this one common in the southern states.

Check the rotors for wear/grooves. They are expensive!

If you can talk the owner into pulling the rear wheel to inspect the splines, that would be great, I would do it for a potential buyer if I got the feeling they were sincere. Probably wouldn't if the first word out his mouth were, ''will you drop the price 500?"

Good luck.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
I would go with a '96 & newer ABS just because the brakes seem better to most riders.

The vacuum fuel valve diaphram splits eventually. They can be repaired if you can find a kit. The replacement from Honda is a bit pricey. They can also be removed as many have done.

What are you riding now?
 
So '96 or newer would be best. May have to save a bit more cash...
Right now I'm riding a 2005 Shadow Spirit VT750DCB. Nice peppy bike but I hate the riding position.
I don't like forward controls any more than I like clipons and rearsets. Both are fun for<1hour (maybe 2 if you're
under 30, but what kind of ride time is that? I rode a GSXR to Bikefest in Leesburg (about 200 miles) and back a couple years ago and I was hurting bad. Neutral is best for a riding position IMHO.

Hal
 
The non-ABS bikes are pretty much the same across the years other than the 40 vs 28 amp alt. '96 was the model year for updated ABS and 40 amper.
 
JPrieST said:
Water pump not common. The coolant hoses and elbows under the carbs are fairly common at the age most of these are now. Not terribly difficult, but quite a time consuming job. (After a good ride you will smell that sweat smell of antifreeze, but won't see any evidence of a leak)
Click to expand...

Hello JprieST,

My 1999 ST1100A has the "sweat smell of antifreeze" and just like you described it, no signs of a leak anywhere. I also have not noticed the antifreeze level dropping at all at the bottle. My question would be, if one can live with the "sweat smell of antifreeze" what have you heard on how important it is to fix this apparently common issue? Thank you!
 
One nice thing about the ST1100 and probably all Honda's in general is that OEM parts are reasonable priced compared to other makes. And if you need a more expensive part, like the rear spline, etc. , you can usually pick up a good used part off Ebay. For example, I bought a spare ignition module for about $25 , and a spare starter for about $30.

If you can do your own work, a good used ST1100 is a good buy.

+1 on getting a '96 or newer model with the 40 amp alternator. I wouldn't consider an earlier model with the 28 amp unit.

I would consider even a high mileage ST1100 if it was maintained properly. There is a guy that has over 400K miles without any major engine work done.
 
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I was shopping for an ST1300 when I found (local Craig's List) a very low mileage garage queen 1991 ST1100 with only 17000 miles on it. The PO had gotten it running, had the carbs, brake cylinders, clutch cylinders rebuilt...fork seals, tires and battery replaced. Rode it home and for a month thereafter looking for potential problems. There were no indications of trouble. Took all the plastic off, then did ALL the periodic maintenance remaining, cleaned and lubed everything, inspected everything I could reach...replaced tubes and hoses, radiator cap, timing belt (mostly for peace of mind)...all according to the maintenance chart in the Honda factory manual. Reassembled, cleaned, polished and buffed anything that looked dingy. Much of the work was not necessary but I now have a 25 year old bike that I feel confident driving anywhere...and looks only a few years old.

I have put on just 1000 miles since I finished all this work at the end of September. It has no bad habits, no bad odors, no drips and everything works fine.

This is just my experience related to buying an older bike than I was shopping for. If an ST has been well looked after and has spent most of its life on top of its wheels, it's probably a good risk.
 
Twenty4valves said:
Hello JprieST,

My 1999 ST1100A has the "sweat smell of antifreeze" and just like you described it, no signs of a leak anywhere. I also have not noticed the antifreeze level dropping at all at the bottle. My question would be, if one can live with the "sweat smell of antifreeze" what have you heard on how important it is to fix this apparently common issue? Thank you!
Click to expand...

It could be something as simple as a loose hose clamp, or possibly the infamous split in the overflow hose at the rad fitting. Whatever, a leak shouldn't be overlooked, lest a leak turns into sudden loss of coolant in the middle of nowhere.
 
Bush said:
It could be something as simple as a loose hose clamp, or possibly the infamous split in the overflow hose at the rad fitting. Whatever, a leak shouldn't be overlooked, lest a leak turns into sudden loss of coolant in the middle of nowhere.
Click to expand...

:plus1: If you can smell antifreeze, you have a problem - find the source and fix it. I had a very small amount of weeping at the thermo sensor that screws into the thermostat housing. It was a really small leak, but I could smell the leak. Some teflon tape took care of the problem. Also check the small overflow hose that connects to the thermostat housing. That's been a common trouble spot. If you have a leak there, just cut back the tubing a half inch, or so.
 
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