Gonna try to install one of my 2x new SMC units...

Al st1100 said:
brake fluids like oil are heavily tested. They are all pretty good. I hope your not trying to start another oil thread :rofl1: see breakdown https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-fluid-comparison-chart.cfm
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Not trying to start anything :) Just figured if this is the first attempt he might need more fluid vs less, assuming the bleeding becomes a PITA etc. He also seems to like to have some exact direction vs choices, which I can agree is helpful when tackling something new. If others have done it and can make sound recommendations, that hopefully make your job easier, then why wouldn't you?
 
SMSW said:
Copper is fine. Alum crush washers are softer, thats the main difference. Neither are active enough in brake fluid to corrode. Do not overtighten and strip out threads.

Were you to find Lithium crush washers, now that might be exciting to watch.
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Thank you! This is helpful. I figured copper was softer but I'm not a metallurgist.
 
Obo said:
Not trying to start anything :) Just figured if this is the first attempt he might need more fluid vs less, assuming the bleeding becomes a PITA etc. He also seems to like to have some exact direction vs choices, which I can agree is helpful when tackling something new. If others have done it and can make sound recommendations, that hopefully make your job easier, then why wouldn't you?
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I'm not trying either but my point is in my opinion is that unless you are racing all the fluid with a dot 4 rating is basicly the same, they can be intermixed and it's not going to make your bike stop faster.:potstir1:
 
The Dark Shadow said:
Thank you! This is helpful. I figured copper was softer but I'm not a metallurgist.
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To make it even "Darker"....

Something else metallurgists sometimes look into when Cu and Al are in contact:


Understanding galvanic corrosion - Canada.ca

The resource explains galvanic corrosion and where it can be encountered in conservation. It also describes what can be done to minimize the problems galvanic corrosion might cause.
www.canada.ca www.canada.ca

Example:

"If aluminum is held in place with copper alloy bolts, the copper will cause galvanic corrosion in the aluminum. "
 
MidLife said:
To make it even "Darker"....

Something else metallurgists sometimes look into when Cu and Al are in contact:


Understanding galvanic corrosion - Canada.ca

The resource explains galvanic corrosion and where it can be encountered in conservation. It also describes what can be done to minimize the problems galvanic corrosion might cause.
www.canada.ca www.canada.ca

Example:

"If aluminum is held in place with copper alloy bolts, the copper will cause galvanic corrosion in the aluminum. "
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Yes... Thank you... That's why I was wondering. So it seems that aluminum is best... as per Honda's design.
 
The Dark Shadow said:
Yes... Thank you... That's why I was wondering. So it seems that aluminum is best... as per Honda's design.
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But then you have steel fittings against aluminum and aluminum against steel reacts galvanically in the same manner that copper against aluminum does. Galvanic corrosion is of so little concern on a motorcycle in general (Specifically there's no electrical path here and brake fluid is non-conductive) I wouldn't worry a bit over using copper or aluminum washers. Honda uses copper against aluminum with a steel bolt fastening both together threaded into the engine block!
 
The Dark Shadow said:
Heya All,

A quick update...

Please be patient and kind with me regarding my challenges overcoming this hurdle. I'll get there... I'll try not to cuss online, here. Apologies for expressing any dark thoughts. (I am "The Dark Shadow", after all... lol)

This has been the Holy Grail of bikes for me, and if I can get over my issues, I'm guessing I'll be keeping this bike as long as I can ride...

The local stealer has the crush washers available at the generous price of $10.13 each, after sales tax!! With great thanks, one of our members has kindly offered to send me some, since he recently went through the same issue.

My front wheel brakes are dragging (I might have posted this above) so I'm gonna have my bike parked until it is fixed, since I don't want to risk them seizing fully when riding.

I know I need "Dot 4", but there are 4 or 5 choices at my local Canadian Tire... (Screenshots posted in my original post) I could get Prestone 100% synthetic, or I could get "OEM Asian vehicle" or a few different choices.

So, I know I need Dot 4, but is there a difference between any of the choices I posted in the screenshots...??View attachment 333676View attachment 333677
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This entire scenario reminds me when IgoFar coached me thru my SMC install. I almost quit because of my anxiety. FWIW. Also:Aluminum Crush Washers.JPG
 
Probably would be better to go to more noble metals for crush washers. Silver or gold, anyone? Platinum is too hard. The lone stranger used silver bullets, evidently he was not worried about corrosion due to blood-silver contact. Whatever you use, gold, silver, aluminum or copper will be fine.
 
The Dark Shadow said:
Wish me luck...
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Best of luck,

Note the ST rides perfectly well without fairing. No need to be too anxious to have her all dressed up again to get back on the road.

Riding Without Tupperware | ST1300 Related

I'm planning on bringing my ST1300 to a local shop for some service that I don't care to do myself (fluid changes, etc.). In order to prevent inadvertent damage to the plastic bits and to make the shop work easier, I'm thinking about removing as much of the tupperware as possible myself, but the...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com


And regardless if you are missing preload fluid or not, crank it up to the max to help standing her up.
 
SMC changed. Still gotta do a full bleed. Serviced front brakes (ie: cleaned pistons and sliders).

Front right disc is getting warm with zero brake usage, and back brake is ever so slightly warm with no usage (ie: gliding to a stop).

With sliders and pistons clean, what could cause the brakes to continue to bind slightly...? Could this be something inside the brake calipers...?

Could it be the alignment of the front wheel...? I've noticed in the forums and in the service manual, that there is a necessary order of tightening axle and pinch bolts. And the guy who changed out my front tire was the sane guy who put 2 decent scratches in the rim. So it wouldn't be surprising if Honda's procedure wasn't followed.
 
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Look at you now @The Dark Shadow all grown up and doing mechanic stuff. Yeah! Nice going.

Proper diagnosis would probably be better after a complete sequenced bleed of the brake system.

More qualified brake techs will be along shortly to offer more/better advice.

Congratulations on the SMC swap.
 
Esti1300 said:
Look at you now @The Dark Shadow all grown up and doing mechanic stuff. Yeah! Nice going.

Proper diagnosis would probably be better after a complete sequenced bleed of the brake system.

More qualified brake techs will be along shortly to offer more/better advice.

Congratulations on the SMC swap.
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Thanks buddy! Appreciate your cheering on from the internet sidelines, so to speak... ✌
 
The Dark Shadow said:
I've noticed in the forums and in the service manual, that there is a necessary order of tightening axle and pinch bolts.
Click to expand...


Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Front & Rear Wheel Install and Front Axle Animation | ST1300 Articles

Animated sequence to show the correct procedure when installing the front wheel into the forks of a Honda ST1300. The right hand side of the bike is the side with the brake lever. Left is the clutch lever side. This is the convention used in the Honda manuals. The video and the photo below...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
Don't waste any time or effort trying to diagnose until you have successfully bled the complete brake system and are sure that there is no longer any air in the system. Once that has been accomplished, if there are still problems you can more accurately diagnose them.

Well done with SMC change!
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Don't waste any time or effort trying to diagnose until you have successfully bled the complete brake system and are sure that there is no longer any air in the system. Once that has been accomplished, if there are still problems you can more accurately diagnose them.

Well done with SMC change!
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I don't see how air in the SMC side could affect the right caliper.

But tomorrow I'm planning to bleed the brake lines as best I can.
 
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