Article [11] ST1100 - Solving the 'hot left leg' problem

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Michael
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
2,398
Age
69
Location
Toronto & Zürich
Bike
None any more.
STOC #
2636
Way back in 2001, when the earth was still cooling down and we used 300 baud modems to connect to the interweb, fellow forum member Roger Heap and I were trying to figure out ways of solving the 'hot left leg' problem on our ST 1100s. At the time, I wrote up a post about it on Steiner's forum.

I still have the pictures from that effort, and perhaps it might be helpful to other ST 1100 owners if I wrote up our modifications here.

There are three different modifications involved. I did all three of them, and it solved the heat problem.

1) Installing a second cold air hose
When the ST 1100 first went into production, Honda installed cold air deliver hoses on both sides of the engine. Around the second year of production, Honda stopped installing the hose on the left side of the engine. Folklore has it that this was because of carburetor icing problems, but I think that is just folklore. I measured the ambient temperature in the carburetor area of my ST 1100, and it was always higher than 100°F once the engine had warmed up. If the motorcycle was left idling for a long period of time (the condition most conducive to formation of carburetor ice), the ambient temperature surrounding the carbs was as high as 150°F. In any case, I haven't encountered carburetor ice problems in the 17 years since I added this hose.

The hose, Honda part number 64280-MT3-000 ("Duct, Cold Air Intake"), is the same part for both sides of the engine. When you order it, you'll need to order two small screws to attach it to the front fairing. The screw part numbers are 90114-KW7-900. The hose costs about $35 USD.

Installing the hose is pretty straightforward. Routing and attachment of the hose is a mirror image of the OEM right side hose. You'll need to remove the false fuel tank cover, and remove a little bit of Tupperware at the front of the bike. It helps to have a couple of tie-wraps on hand to secure the hose in place once you install it, this will prevent it from blocking re-installation of the false tank cover, and also prevent the hose from getting in the way of the left side fairing pocket when you remove and replace the left side Tupperware.

Air Duct 2018.jpg

Air Hose 2018.jpg

2) Removing the two plastic panels at the front of the false fuel tank
For reasons unknown (perhaps to keep dirt or water out of the front of the engine, or perhaps to route more air up behind the windshield), Honda installed two plastic baffles on either side of the steering stem of the motorcycle.

If these baffles are removed, the airflow that was previously directed up the large opening where the forks are is now permitted to flow straight back under the false fuel tank cover, and from there down either side of the engine, aft of the ventilation openings on the side panels.

I removed both baffles. I've since ridden over 120,000 miles, and never had any problems with water or dirt entering the area behind where these baffles used to be.

The photo below shows the baffle in place (each one is held on by one screw), and the photo below that shows both baffles once removed from the moto.

Baffle 2018.jpg

Baffles removed 2018.jpg

3) Secure the rubber flap (heat shield) above the carburetors with Velcro
Honda provides a rubber heat shield that fits across the frame at the front of the motorcycle. Unfortunately, the rubber is not secured to the frame tubes, which means that quite a bit of hot air can migrate upwards.

I attached Velcro to the frame tubes and the bottom of the heat shield, this to prevent hot air from migrating up past the shield.

Before modification
Heatshield 1.jpg


Heatshield 2.jpg

Velcro Installed
Heatshield 3.jpg


Together, these three modifications have resulted in a considerable drop in temperature of the false tank cover and of the Tupperware panels that go down each side of the motorcycle towards the rider footpegs.

Michael
 
Great information and thanks for the show!
I bought my 1991, only slightly used but just out of 20 year garage storage, three years back. Rode it home 80 miles then around town for a few weeks, making note of rattles and leaks (there were none except for rattling saddle bags...another story). Making a long story medium, I pulled the plastics off, did all the maintenance in the Honda manual because I wasn't certain of anything and noticed the rightmost air duct had been squeezed shut, into a 'U' shaped cross section the entire length between the ends. I replaced it with new from Partzilla.
Your article shows hard plastic baffles up front that mine did not have installed but no mods that I can identify. My bike is only uncomfortable in stop 'n go traffic on over 90 degree days. Should removal of these two parts make that much difference?
 
My 1997 has the left hose installed but not the right. It's possible the PO switched it when they took off the vacuum petcock. The right side is much warmer.
 
Two other techniques that I recall being done was to adhere some self-sticking heat reflective material to the inside of the faux tank cover (top shelter) and left side panel and using some of that material to specifically close the gap between the side panel and the top shelter. For me installing the left side air duct was enough to solve the problem to my satisfaction.
 
Thank you. Its not as bad now but in this summer my ST1100 was like a hair dryer. I think I will give this a try.
 
My 1991, manf 10/90, only had one snorkel so I added a second, just because. My baffles are still installed and I have left the Hondaline fairing wind deflectors on year-round for years now. Never noticed a heat issue on mine, even at 115°F, but I always ride with Stich RC 2/pc pants on.

Nice article and pictures. I remember your original on STeinar’s ST1100.org, Michael.

Regards, John
 
I have not really had any heat issue on my 97 St1100. I feel a little warmth sometimes but not a real problem. I did install some aluminium foil under each side cover below the tank cover. I basically sealed the area around the valve cover where it can vent into the side covers using heavy gauge aluminum foil. Just fold it and form it to the frame under the covers. Seems to work well.
 
...I have left the Hondaline fairing wind deflectors on year-round for years now.
Hi John:

The optional Honda wind deflectors make a HUGE difference on both the 1100 and the 1300. They create a strong low-pressure area just forward of the deflectors, and "just forward of the deflectors" is the location of the air outlet vents at the side of the engine.

It is unfortunate that Honda is no longer manufacturing the deflector kits for either model of ST.

Michael
 
I have not really had any heat issue on my 97 St1100. I feel a little warmth sometimes but not a real problem. I did install some aluminium foil under each side cover below the tank cover. I basically sealed the area around the valve cover where it can vent into the side covers using heavy gauge aluminum foil. Just fold it and form it to the frame under the covers. Seems to work well.
I'm not too handy, so your aluminum foil sounds about my speed. Do you have any pictures you can post? Tim
 
Way back in 2001, when the earth was still cooling down and we used 300 baud modems to connect to the interweb, fellow forum member Roger Heap and I were trying to figure out ways of solving the 'hot left leg' problem on our ST 1100s. At the time, I wrote up a post about it on Steiner's forum.

I still have the pictures from that effort, and perhaps it might be helpful to other ST 1100 owners if I wrote up our modifications here.

There are three different modifications involved. I did all three of them, and it solved the heat problem.

1) Installing a second cold air hose
When the ST 1100 first went into production, Honda installed cold air deliver hoses on both sides of the engine. Around the second year of production, Honda stopped installing the hose on the left side of the engine. Folklore has it that this was because of carburetor icing problems, but I think that is just folklore. I measured the ambient temperature in the carburetor area of my ST 1100, and it was always higher than 100°F once the engine had warmed up. If the motorcycle was left idling for a long period of time (the condition most conducive to formation of carburetor ice), the ambient temperature surrounding the carbs was as high as 150°F. In any case, I haven't encountered carburetor ice problems in the 17 years since I added this hose.

The hose, Honda part number 64280-MT3-000 ("Duct, Cold Air Intake"), is the same part for both sides of the engine. When you order it, you'll need to order two small screws to attach it to the front fairing. The screw part numbers are 90114-KW7-900. The hose costs about $35 USD.

Installing the hose is pretty straightforward. Routing and attachment of the hose is a mirror image of the OEM right side hose. You'll need to remove the false fuel tank cover, and remove a little bit of Tupperware at the front of the bike. It helps to have a couple of tie-wraps on hand to secure the hose in place once you install it, this will prevent it from blocking re-installation of the false tank cover, and also prevent the hose from getting in the way of the left side fairing pocket when you remove and replace the left side Tupperware.

View attachment 231629

View attachment 231630

2) Removing the two plastic panels at the front of the false fuel tank
For reasons unknown (perhaps to keep dirt or water out of the front of the engine, or perhaps to route more air up behind the windshield), Honda installed two plastic baffles on either side of the steering stem of the motorcycle.

If these baffles are removed, the airflow that was previously directed up the large opening where the forks are is now permitted to flow straight back under the false fuel tank cover, and from there down either side of the engine, aft of the ventilation openings on the side panels.

I removed both baffles. I've since ridden over 120,000 miles, and never had any problems with water or dirt entering the area behind where these baffles used to be.

The photo below shows the baffle in place (each one is held on by one screw), and the photo below that shows both baffles once removed from the moto.

View attachment 231631

View attachment 231632

3) Secure the rubber flap (heat shield) above the carburetors with Velcro
Honda provides a rubber heat shield that fits across the frame at the front of the motorcycle. Unfortunately, the rubber is not secured to the frame tubes, which means that quite a bit of hot air can migrate upwards.

I attached Velcro to the frame tubes and the bottom of the heat shield, this to prevent hot air from migrating up past the shield.

Before modification
View attachment 231633

View attachment 231634

Velcro Installed
View attachment 231635


Together, these three modifications have resulted in a considerable drop in temperature of the false tank cover and of the Tupperware panels that go down each side of the motorcycle towards the rider footpegs.

Michael
Thanks for the info. Just pulling the two plastic panels solved my problem.
 
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