Article [13] ST1300 - Brake Fluid Replacement

What a huge help this was. I was having an issue with a knock sensor and thought while I got all the plastic off I might as well bleed the brakes and replace all the pads since I've never done either. Let me tell you my brakes are working great and the fluid was brown. I also did the clutch. You'll need two pints of fluid and a power bleeder sure does help too. This was something I was always afraid to do because of the complexity of the linked/ABS brakes. I was shocked at the cost of the pads about $40/pair and you need 3 pairs ( 2 for the front and 1 for the rear).
 
I really fluffed this one up. First the LH top nipple emptied the the reservoir. I managed to get it back to clear. Then I mistook the RH mid nipple for the top and emptied the rear reservoir entirely. I started from scratch from the beginning but returning to the top LH nipple there's so much air it s unreal. And I flushed over a litre of fresh fluid.

I'm using a Mityvac.

Any suggestions very very welcome gents.
 
Using a mightyvac or similar pulls air in around the threads of the nipple. Many folks mistake that for air in the lines. Try the level pump method, pressing the lever then closing the bleed valve before releasing the lever. Chances are that it runs clear (but verify).
 
I made sure the seal was complete around the nipple and i tried using the traditional method with the lever too.
 
You can use what ever device you want, I use the motion pro check valve as per reading on here. The trick is to just slightly crack the bleeder screw and work the fluid out slowly. If the screw is loosened too much, air is drawn past the bleeder screw threads and it "looks" like there is still air in your system.
 
You can also just pull the retainer pin and compress the pistons again. It's not a big deal with the caliper already off the bike. Did it today, infact.
 
I made a shim out of a wooden kitchen spatula and used credit cards to take up the last few mm of free space.. it worked
 
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