Article [13] ST1300 - Maintenance - Fairing Installation

jfheath

John Heath
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1586437533979.pngA set of notes about putting the fairing back onto the ST1300. It covers most of the fitting gotchas, which might otherwise catch you out and/or result in broken tags. Also lists all of the fasteners - photos, description,, part numbers, where they fit and why it matters.

Very useful for learning what goes where and why.

Link related to Fairing Removal

The attached pdf was updated 20 Nov 2020
 

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  • ST1300 Refit Fairing.pdf
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thanks very much. I was thinking about asking this very question lately.
 
Wonderful, John. Thanks a lot. I especially find the listing of the push rivets and pics of the differences between the screws helpful. Haven't we all (well, most of us) used the wrong screw only to go back and sort through them to get it right?
 
John,

Thanks for taking the time to put this article together. I appreciate your efforts. I've owned three 1300's and you've given me a few tips that will make the job easier.

Best regards,

Len
 
I didn't look at the PDF as I have done this more times than I can count, but I would strongly suggest putting all fasteners in a baggie and keeping it with the part removed. I still do it and it does help.
 
I didn't look at the PDF as I have done this more times than I can count, but I would strongly suggest putting all fasteners in a baggie and keeping it with the part removed. I still do it and it does help.

This is my method as well. Pretty fool proof.
 
I didn't look at the PDF as I have done this more times than I can count, but I would strongly suggest putting all fasteners in a baggie and keeping it with the part removed. I still do it and it does help.

I try to keep the pins and bolts with the parts too, minus the baggie. Good idea though....

Can we buy a plastic pin kit? Or do we need to buy the individual pins every time?
 
I try to keep the pins and bolts with the parts too, minus the baggie. Good idea though....

Can we buy a plastic pin kit? Or do we need to buy the individual pins every time?
I used to take several baggies. The one for the lower middle cowl for instance would have a note saying 'lower middle cowl' with any notes to myself and contain just the four fasteners securing it. Each significant fairing piece would have it's own bag.

If you are careful all of the fasteners go back in the bike, no need to replace them each time. Many of mine are still original after 11 years 168,xxx miles.
 
I've heard tell of the Egg Carton Method the Baggie Method the Pile the Bits on the Tup Method and Push the Parts into Cardboard Method. All inexpensive and extremely practical.

I'd like to get a slab or three of 1-1.5" acrylic and attach laminated fastener worksheets to the bottom. Then drill recesses over the appropriate fastener locations with a Forstner bit tailored to each type of fastener.

Wholly unnecessary and more expensive than the above Methods but it would really make excellent use of those worksheets that someone took a lot of time to draw. Not to mention they'd be pretty trick looking.
 
I didn't look at the PDF as I have done this more times than I can count, but I would strongly suggest putting all fasteners in a baggie and keeping it with the part removed. I still do it and it does help.

Or just have a boat load of extras handy for anytime you miss place, loose down the void or break (a plastic rivet)! ;)

Great job on the write up!

I just went through sorting a bunch of ST1300 nuts, bolts, screws, washers and other stuff this weekend, that I had bought off ebay a couple of months ago!
 
I used to take several baggies. The one for the lower middle cowl for instance would have a note saying 'lower middle cowl' with any notes to myself and contain just the four fasteners securing it. Each significant fairing piece would have it's own bag.

If you are careful all of the fasteners go back in the bike, no need to replace them each time. Many of mine are still original after 11 years 168,xxx miles.

I tried to be careful but it's pretty chilly in my garage so some of the plastic fasteners were brittle and broke and some were missing.I'll have to shop around for some I guess.I was hoping to find a type of kit with all the fasteners in an area of the bike, so I don't have to try and find the piece in the "busy"parts fiche.
 
If you ask I'm sure that someone will reply with the Honda part numbers of the exact fasteners you need by fairing part and location.
 
I tried to be careful but it's pretty chilly in my garage so some of the plastic fasteners were brittle and broke and some were missing.I'll have to shop around for some I guess.I was hoping to find a type of kit with all the fasteners in an area of the bike, so I don't have to try and find the piece in the "busy"parts fiche.

John's write up, linked above, has all the part numbers at the end (assuming they're not different for a Pan :D). Great job on the write up John. :bow1: It's going into my reference file.
 
Many thanks for the comments.



I used to have coloured plastic boxes arranged on my bench for the bits as they came off but nowadays I don't bother. I know exactly what goes where and I just put them into a magnetic tray. I still use paper towels and plastic bags for brake pads, and these get labelled left and right so that they go back on the same disc rotor. Whatever works. The article is of little consequence to those of us that are familiar with it and have our own techniques. It's really aimed at people doing it for the first couple of times.

Of course, putting them into a plastic bag assumes that whoever put the fairing on before put everything back as it was ! I've had 2 ST1300 from brand new, and neither of them were properly put together when I got round to removing the fairing. So errors during manufacture or during its pre-delivery or first service must have been the cause.



Oh, yes. Although it is less easy to get it wrong on the 1300 than it was on the 1100. Honda have used different thread sizes for the different types of bolt on each component. (eg the side panel bolts. One near the pannier is longer and has a larger shoulder, so they made it a 6mm thread. Similar on the lower cowl where shoulderless bolts on the 1100 could be used where a shoulder was required to protect the plastic.



If you use the part numbers on ebay, there are a few people who get these manufactured at a much cheaper rate. I bought 50 of the shorter headed push rivets 90657-SBO-003 for ?9.00 UK. I looked again as I was re-organising the article, and they now do the push rivets with the larger head. I can't find any cheaper versions of the pin type fairing clips though.

Occasionally I just put in an order for a few of each. I hate it when I am finishing off a job and I spot that a bolt needs replacing or a clip breaks and I have to spend ages working on an alternative solution. If I have the parts in, I just throw anything that looks dodgy and replace it. Those round head, hex socket bolts with the shoulder are very soft metal and seem to tighten themselves. As soon as the socket looks a bit worse for wear, I get rid and fit a new one.

I'm not sure why Honda chose to use a longer push rivet for the maintenance panel on bike equipped with the optional wind deflectors. The standard push pin rivet 90116-MCS-G00 is an exact fit even with the deflectors installed.
 
Wow! A first-class article, John, and really helpful. I wish I had found this article earlier, when the ST 1300 was new to me.

Michael
 
dduelin said:
I'm not sure why Honda chose to use a longer push rivet for the maintenance panel on bike equipped with the optional wind deflectors.
I'll look up that part number. The devices used on the front dash (as viewed from the front - one in each corner) are too short and bobble around until they fall out. But they don't secure anything to anything at least on my bike.

This is the culprit - Clip Splash Shield Is there a longer version of this clip used anywhere on the 1300?
 
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