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Article [13] ST1300 - Maintenance - Front & Rear Wheel Install and Front Axle Animation
- Thread starter jfheath
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Looking to confirm tool sizes for the front and rear axle
Front - 17mm hex for the left side of the axle and 21mm (22mm?) socket for the right side?
Rear - 27mm socket
Front - 17mm hex for the left side of the axle and 21mm (22mm?) socket for the right side?
Rear - 27mm socket
To remove the front wheel you’ll need a 6mm Allen socket for the pinch bolts(if civilian model) and SMC mounting points, and a 12mm socket for the right caliper mounting points, and the pinch bolts on PD models, and a 17mm axle tool, and a 22mm socket.
For the rear wheel you’ll need a 27 mm socket, 8mm Allen socket to hold the axle, 14mm socket to tighten stopper plug BEFORE axle nut is tightened, and a 5mm Allen to remove all the pad retaining pins unless it’s an 08 or newer, then you’ll need an 8mm wrench.
For the rear wheel you’ll need a 27 mm socket, 8mm Allen socket to hold the axle, 14mm socket to tighten stopper plug BEFORE axle nut is tightened, and a 5mm Allen to remove all the pad retaining pins unless it’s an 08 or newer, then you’ll need an 8mm wrench.
Last edited:
Sidekick
Save Ukraine Stop War!
Larry is just indefatigable and always accurate...
Thank you sir!
Thank you sir!
Another great "save your butt" article!
The last associated front fork PITA I've done was my V65 Magna. The ST is generations removed from that.
Thank you. I had to change the front tire on it just yesterday (used bike purchase). Got it all in right, but have lots of new-pad drag. I'll loosen up the axle and do these steps again. MUCH better than the cryptic manual, for sure!
Thank you.
The last associated front fork PITA I've done was my V65 Magna. The ST is generations removed from that.
Thank you. I had to change the front tire on it just yesterday (used bike purchase). Got it all in right, but have lots of new-pad drag. I'll loosen up the axle and do these steps again. MUCH better than the cryptic manual, for sure!
Thank you.
Nice !!!!!
Thanks to all for the advice. I have to change the rear wheel on my new to me bike for the first time. This article and additional input provide me with the information and confidence to at least try to change it myself.
Sadlsor
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Just take your time.
I bet you'll come to appreciate the no-chain approach.
It's a luxury I've come to take for granted.
I bet you'll come to appreciate the no-chain approach.
It's a luxury I've come to take for granted.
Sidekick
Save Ukraine Stop War!
I am maybe missing something obvious or just not understanding the purpose of the process.
I have been watching this a hundred times and I still can't understand the logic.
How can you modify the alignment of the wheel when:
- the right side of the axle clamp on the right fork leg shoulder stop and the right spacer and then the bearing on the hub shoulder
- the left side of the axle have a shoulder pushing on the wheel spacers and the left bearing
I don't see any play possible or the wheel being able to move laterally in any direction?
The only thing I see able to move laterally is the left fork leg axle support from the vertical play of the tube, not the wheel.
Were is the variable or possible play?
I have been watching this a hundred times and I still can't understand the logic.
How can you modify the alignment of the wheel when:
- the right side of the axle clamp on the right fork leg shoulder stop and the right spacer and then the bearing on the hub shoulder
- the left side of the axle have a shoulder pushing on the wheel spacers and the left bearing
I don't see any play possible or the wheel being able to move laterally in any direction?
The only thing I see able to move laterally is the left fork leg axle support from the vertical play of the tube, not the wheel.
Were is the variable or possible play?
OP
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It is to make sure that everything is settled into its proper position
The axle which is clamped to the right fork leg, can be twisted slightly in relation to the left hand fork leg, or the fork legs can be strained slightly - think of the fork leg as a separate component and it is secured to a fixed axle by its pinch bolts. the fork leg is in an upright position, not attached to anything else. The axle is held firmly . It cannot move. Now imagine pushing on the top of the fork leg - trying to move it like a clock hand from the 12 oclock position. You will have some success. Some reasons:
The axle will twist slightly. Yes, metal bars will twist. Think torsion bar suspension, beam type torque wrenches
The moving parts will exhibit some 'play'
The fork leg and tube will bend slightly.
Fork legs were not facing quite the same way - one is pressing on the back of the axle, the other on the front.
Fork legs were not quite level - one pressing on the top of the axle one on the bottom
Those tiny misalignments could be locked in place by friction and the weight of the motorcycle.
As soon as you clamp the left fork leg, the tiny misalignments are locked in place - so before you do that, you bounce the forks a few times to help the components to settle into a more relaxed position. To overcome the friction and take the weight off the front wheel momentarily.
Have you ever seen a motorcyle after a drop. Forks and wheel seem to be twisted, but sometimes they are not damaged. The forks have twisted in their tubes, the axle has rotated on one side, and one fork has compressed more than the other. And the tubes have twisted in the yoke. All that needs to be done is for everything to be undone, rearranged and tightened up again
You must have got on mechanical weighing scales, looked down and thought - thats not right. So you get off and try again. Or you put a foot in the scales and take it off quickly to make sure that the mechanism is free to move. Then you try again and all is well with the world. It shows the correct reading.
What you are doing with the scales is exactly what you do when bouncing the forks. Freeing things up making sure that they are moving properly, before applying the final securing bolts to lock the settings into position.
Now if only weighing scales had such a locking device ...
The axle which is clamped to the right fork leg, can be twisted slightly in relation to the left hand fork leg, or the fork legs can be strained slightly - think of the fork leg as a separate component and it is secured to a fixed axle by its pinch bolts. the fork leg is in an upright position, not attached to anything else. The axle is held firmly . It cannot move. Now imagine pushing on the top of the fork leg - trying to move it like a clock hand from the 12 oclock position. You will have some success. Some reasons:
The axle will twist slightly. Yes, metal bars will twist. Think torsion bar suspension, beam type torque wrenches
The moving parts will exhibit some 'play'
The fork leg and tube will bend slightly.
Fork legs were not facing quite the same way - one is pressing on the back of the axle, the other on the front.
Fork legs were not quite level - one pressing on the top of the axle one on the bottom
Those tiny misalignments could be locked in place by friction and the weight of the motorcycle.
As soon as you clamp the left fork leg, the tiny misalignments are locked in place - so before you do that, you bounce the forks a few times to help the components to settle into a more relaxed position. To overcome the friction and take the weight off the front wheel momentarily.
Have you ever seen a motorcyle after a drop. Forks and wheel seem to be twisted, but sometimes they are not damaged. The forks have twisted in their tubes, the axle has rotated on one side, and one fork has compressed more than the other. And the tubes have twisted in the yoke. All that needs to be done is for everything to be undone, rearranged and tightened up again
You must have got on mechanical weighing scales, looked down and thought - thats not right. So you get off and try again. Or you put a foot in the scales and take it off quickly to make sure that the mechanism is free to move. Then you try again and all is well with the world. It shows the correct reading.
What you are doing with the scales is exactly what you do when bouncing the forks. Freeing things up making sure that they are moving properly, before applying the final securing bolts to lock the settings into position.
Now if only weighing scales had such a locking device ...
Last edited:
Sidekick
Save Ukraine Stop War!
I always took literally the notion of "front wheel alignment" and there is not a such thing on the ST. The right hub shoulder/bearing is the only absolute centering point and there is no optional way to modify it. If I now understand the mounting process correctly, it is more a structural alignment of the front end.
Thank you so much for taking the time for answering my question.