Escaping from Italy into Africa…

CYYJ

Michael
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
2,398
Age
69
Location
Toronto & Zürich
Bike
None any more.
STOC #
2636
In an earlier post, I mentioned that I had booked passage on a ferry from Palermo, Italy to Tunisia, but the ferry company cancelled the booking.

I rode to Palermo Friday, and found out that the ferry operator had changed the departure time from 1:00 PM to 10:00 AM the same day – so, their highly sophisticated computer system cancelled my booking entirely, rather than sending me an email or SMS saying the departure would be 3 hours earlier than planned.

I should have expected something like that – after all, in Europe, once you get south of the Alps or the Pyrenees, you’re in the third world.

So, I bought another ticket, and took note of the big warning on the ticket to “Show up 3 hours before boarding time”.

7 AM Saturday morning, I arrived at the port, to find all the gates locked and no-one there but the night watchman. He told me to get lost and come back at 9:00 AM when the port opened. I did that, and when I returned I found a poverty-stricken mob of vehicles waiting outside the port gate. With all their belongings piled up on the roof of their cars, they reminded me of refugees fleeing some war-torn or plague-ridden environment. One little car (far left of photo) even had a motorcycle lying sideways up on the roof under a pile of kitchen chairs.

I then remembered that Italy is, at this moment, a plague-ridden environment. The government shut down all the schools in the country this week, and imposed a quarantine on about 11 million people up in the north, and just in the last day, reported a jump in China-virus cases from 1,200 to a little over 5,000. News reports advise that the virus presents the greatest risk to people over 65. That is a relief, I don’t turn 65 for another 12 days, so I should be OK until then.

Waiting for the Port to Open
Ferry Lineup.jpg

Around about 9:30, someone opened the gate to the port, and we all proceeded to the ferry. It was at this time that I figured out why no-one was in a hurry to load the boat – there were only 25 vehicles and a total of about 60 people sailing on that voyage. The ship has a capacity of 600 cars and 1,200 people. I guess it must be the off-season for travel.

There are two ferry companies operating in Italy – GNV and Grimaldi. I travelled on GNV a few years ago, and swore “never again”. Grimaldi was no better.

What the Ferry Company Website Promises
Cruise Ship.jpg

What the Ferry Was Actually Like
Ship 4b.jpg

After a 12 hour passage, the ship arrived at Tunis. Clearing customs and immigration was complex and time-consuming, as it often is in former colonies, but all the officials were polite & helpful.

I arrived at the hotel around midnight. The hotel was deserted – only 3 guests. Again, this virus business is just killing tourism. After a bit of discussion, the manager gave me a suite that normally sells for $200 a night for only $60 a night. The hotel looks like something out of Arabian Nights – or perhaps an Egyptian cathouse, I’m not sure which description fits best.

The Hotel in Tunis
Hotel.jpg

Tourism in Tunisia is suffering not only from the fear of coronavirus, but from concerns about terrorism. On Friday, a couple of people on a motorcycle (not a ST) blew themselves up in front of the American embassy. There are also unconfirmed reports that someone farted in front of the Canadian embassy. This kind of nonsense is unfortunate – 99.999% of Tunisians are friendly, welcoming people who want no part of this kind of thing.

Today, I bought a prepaid Tunisian SIM card for my phone - $1.25 for the SIM card, and $6 for 5 gigabytes of data and 500 minutes of talk, both good for 30 days. Makes me wonder why cell phone bills are so high in Canada.

Tomorrow, I need to figure out where to go to buy insurance for the moto – the insurance booth at the port was closed when I arrived.

I'll keep y'all posted.

Michael
 
MSN just reported that Italy locks down much of the country's north over the Coronavirus.
Lets hope Mike makes it out of there safely.
 
Glad you made it. Hope you have a good trip.

99.999% of Tunisians are friendly
We have a holiday booked in Tunisia in the summer. I'm selfishly hoping tourism continues to be hit - it'll be a lovely quiet holiday!

The same day that Tunisia announced their first case, I bought enhanced insurance. If the planes are flying & the borders open, we'll be there!
 
Good luck on your upcoming adventures. May your luck continue to hold heading forwards.

So what does the entire adventure look like at this point? All of us that live vicariously would like to know.
 
So what does the entire adventure look like at this point?
So far, so good.

Things move slowly here - it's Africa. I spent today getting liability insurance for the motorcycle (cost me $40 for 3 months). Tomorrow I am going to head down south towards the desert, where hopefully it will be warmer. It's surprisingly cool here in Tunis - about 15°C (59°F) today. Sunny, though.

The people here are very nice, very gracious, as they are in all the North African countries. Tunisia uses a funny system for noting prices, there are three digits to the right of the decimal point. So I took a taxi today, and the meter read "1100", and I handed the driver 15 dinars. He gave me a strange look, and spent the next few minutes explaining that I could hire him for the whole day for that price, that the actual fare was only 1.1 dinars (about 50¢). So I invited him to join me for coffee and cake at a cafe near the taxi stand, and we enjoyed each other's company for a little while.

Michael
 
So I invited him to join me for coffee and cake at a cafe near the taxi stand, and we enjoyed each other's company for a little while.
Excellent idea, good on you. Doing such things is what usually leads to having the best experiences.
 
Last edited:
Excellent timing, Italy have just announced country wide lock down, even temporary visitors (holiday makers) well be asked to "justify their movements" when flying home.
 
Excellent timing, Italy have just announced country wide lock down, even temporary visitors (holiday makers) well be asked to "justify their movements" when flying home.
Wow - that was a close call. I was getting worried that the ferry service would suffer a schedule reduction before I got on it on at Palermo last Saturday, but now it appears that there will be no ferry service at all out of Italy after today.

It's going to be interesting trying to get out of here (Tunisia) in a couple of weeks. There are only ferries from Tunisia go to either France or Italy, and Italy is now shut down. I wonder if the Tunisian government will pull the plug on the ferry service to France, in an attempt to isolate this country, which so far has only recorded 1 case of COVID-19. If they do that, I'm going to be here for a long time. There is no point riding west into Algeria because their border with Morocco has been closed for years (political dispute), and the next country to the east is Libya, which is in the middle of a very serious civil war.

Heck, I might be here long enough to start up an African RAN list. :biggrin:

Michael
 
It's going to be interesting trying to get out of here (Tunisia) in a couple of weeks.
I have a holiday booked in Tunisia in a few months (UK to Tunis really isn't a problem right now), so have a vested interest in keeping up to date on the areas.

Might I ask, what were your plans for the return trip (approx dates as well)?

I was talking to a friend (works for Italy's Ministry of Foreign Affairs) about you last night. If I get wind of anything that might be of help to you, I'll happily PM you directly.

For now, definitively wise to try make alternate arrangements.
 
Was it raining in Tunisia when you arrived? (hotel pic). What do they speak there Arabic, and French?
Yes, it rains a little bit every night. Not during the day, though - at least, not so far.

The primary language is a Tunisian dialect of Arabic, although everyone also speaks French. So do I, which makes things easy. A small number of people - primarily in the hospitality industry - can get by in English. But I think it would be stressful for a unilingual English speaking person to spend a lot of time wandering around here.

Michael
 
Yes, it rains a little bit every night. Not during the day, though - at least, not so far.

The primary language is a Tunisian dialect of Arabic, although everyone also speaks French. So do I, which makes things easy. A small number of people - primarily in the hospitality industry - can get by in English. But I think it would be stressful for a unilingual English speaking person to spend a lot of time wandering around here.

Michael
Bet, less then hands full of folks in Tunisian can speaking Lao :biggrin: Have a great trip posting some pix as you traveling eh.
 
Back
Top Bottom