Getting to Know the Bike

[draser]

Be damned if I would send it to them.

Worst case scenario I can use a shop in the states but, where's the fun in that... I'll just order a line with proper end fittings and do it m'self.

You're a while away from this yet - but I'll post it while I remember. You may find it useful. There is s useful post for taking a fairing off and identifying the nuts and bolts so that you can put them all back together again. I provide a link to that.

Thank you, my fairings - while in good condition thank God - came with missing fasteners and/or wrong fasteners so your help will be appreciated!! When I get there I'll have to order what's missing. I did find a few fasteners within the bike as I was taking it apart but I feel I'm still short a bunch.

You can re-fill it just like the OEM Honda shock, which Honda, Penske, Progressive, and everyone else will tell you ONLY they can do it

My thoughts exactly...

Filling the fluid line for the rear shock is relatively easy. Theres a thread on here somewhere. I bought a brand new Honda replacement and it came with (about) 10 clicks of free space before it started to move the preload - so my very first job was to refill that. It is impossible for me to get it so that there is no air at all in there, but if you fill the lines up, move the piston a few times and bolt the banjo bolt with fluid flowing out as you tighten - well I got it to just two clicks. Standard OEM is 7 clicks.

Yeah, it reminds me when I rebuilt the rear shocks with fluid reservoirs on my Magna, main problem (obviously) was getting as much air out as possible while filling with fluid.

 

[draser]

Thank you all for your replies, getting there slowly but surely. It seems that my rear wheel "flange bearings" are missing a few balls here and there so the order went out, also added the needle bearing for the shock lower attachment point as there was some play in the bearing/bushing assembly. Working on pressing out the needle bearing.

 

[jfheath]

There are a couple of significant 'O' rings that fit in the disassembled wheel. Make sure that these are in place/replaced.

Parts 23 and 22 on this diagram. They will be numbered differently on other fiches.

 

[draser]

So today, having cleaned the clutch slave from all the crystalized fluid/moisture stuff, below - some corrosion on the outside of SC body but inside bore in shiny good condition, piston just have discoloration:



And the engine side of it, after several cleaning "sessions":



The clutch line form MC to the SC was previously flushed until clear liquid came out. Torqued SC by feel due to location and inaccessibility. Next the brake fluid went in, the vac pump went to the service port of SC and fun begun... Actually it went pretty fast, got all air out and lever feels harder than before, reminds me of the Magna after installing a Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs, definitely harder than when I bought it.

Noticed a lot of squealing while pulling the lever so I had to take it apart. Found an acorn (??) nut on the pivot screw:



and, just for kicks, looking at the brake lever... guess what... no nut (typical by now..):



Long story short, I ended up with 2 locking nuts (from my stock) for the levers. Looking at the brass piece that has the boss for the MC pushrod, there was ribbing/rough surface on the one side:



Which, after removing with some 1000 grit sandpaper, greasing and reinstalling, took care of the lever squealing.

And now I have a working clutch. Moving on to the brakes next, let the fun begin..

 

[draser]

Checking on the slave for leaks... none found:



On to the rear wheel - drive flange bearings... supposed to be 2 but I'm at 1.5:



The seal on the one side looks like this now:



And still waiting on parts to arrive....

 

[draser]

Parts came in today from Carolina Cycle, so I started assembling the swingarm - installed the new needle bearing for the shock and respective dust seals. Also, installed the swingarm pivot bearings packed with fresh grease and cleaned the rubber boot for the output shaft. Swingarm ready to go in first thing tomorrow.

Called Technafit - a company I used in the past to order custom made brake and clutch lines. They have a manufacturing site in Indiana, use good quality materials and have decent prices. They're suppliers for several auto manufacturers (Subaru, Volvo, etc.), and the lines I have on my bikes work beautifully. Unfortunately, they use distributors now and don't take online orders like before.

They recommended this supplier in Florida (BAT Industries), which I called and they took my order for the monoshock fluid line. Of course I could've used Apex, Galfer and such, pay a lot more and not sure where the part came from (China, US...).

While I had the swingarm off, I thought I'd clean and lube the Heim joints for the shifter linkage, I should have ordered the dust boots but the thought came late - Moly grease for the Heims and cleaned and siliconed the boots. There seem to be no looseness/play in there. Linkage/shifter went back in.

 

[Sidekick]

Not supposed to use Rotella T4 as I recall. I have used Rotella T6, Honda GN4, Mobil 1-4T. Also, the wires running under the seat, one is on top and seems to have some bare wire exposed. If you change out the oil and filter (remember to strap clutch handle in depressed position), your clutch should return to life. Other members will voice opinions soon.

"clutch handle in depressed position", why if I may ask?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

"clutch handle in depressed position", why if I may ask?

To allow the oil that is trapped between the clutch plates to drain out during the oil change.

 

[draser]

And the swingarm went in...



All I need to finish the rear is the preload adjuster line for the shock... meantime I'll finish the wheel (bearing changes) and overhaul the rear caliper (cleaning, boots, etc.). Need to order tires as well, haven't decided what brand yet... I found a set of Pirelli Angel's over in England, cheaper than here (if you can find the set here..) The vendor is "The Visor Shop", which has good reviews over there, anyone from across the pond has used these guys?

Now that I'm nearing completion of the rear end overhaul, the main conclusion was that whoever serviced the wheel used a ton of moly grease, since there was grease everywhere... The instruction for moly grease usage is to use sparsely. Also, wheel o-rings need replaced to keep the grease in there.

 

[draser]

The rear shock preload line came in and the shock in now complete:



Which, after filling up with oil, reinstalling on the bike, gives me about 10mm adjustment max:



Am I in the ballpark? What are you guys getting?

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

What are you guys getting?

That's about right.

Preload Adjuster Distance | ST1300-Suspension

I was looking through the service manual and cannot find MM of travel for the preload, any chance some knows this or can measure: fully off/ fully on? Thank you in advance.

www.st-owners.com

 

[dduelin]

So today, having cleaned the clutch slave from all the crystalized fluid/moisture stuff, below - some corrosion on the outside of SC body but inside bore in shiny good condition, piston just have discoloration:



And the engine side of it, after several cleaning "sessions":



The clutch line form MC to the SC was previously flushed until clear liquid came out. Torqued SC by feel due to location and inaccessibility. Next the brake fluid went in, the vac pump went to the service port of SC and fun begun... Actually it went pretty fast, got all air out and lever feels harder than before, reminds me of the Magna after installing a Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs, definitely harder than when I bought it.

Noticed a lot of squealing while pulling the lever so I had to take it apart. Found an acorn (??) nut on the pivot screw:



and, just for kicks, looking at the brake lever... guess what... no nut (typical by now..):



Long story short, I ended up with 2 locking nuts (from my stock) for the levers. Looking at the brass piece that has the boss for the MC pushrod, there was ribbing/rough surface on the one side:



Which, after removing with some 1000 grit sandpaper, greasing and reinstalling, took care of the lever squealing.

And now I have a working clutch. Moving on to the brakes next, let the fun begin..

Good work, looking good.

BTW Honda does put an acorn nut on the pivot bolt.

The stock Showa shock preloader applies about 10mm travel when filled and purged of air.

 

[MidLife]

The rear shock preload line came in and the shock in now complete:

Did you install it as shown?

I suppose the black screw on the bottom is the rebound adjustment, that would be facing outwards, putting the hose on the engine side of the shock?

Would have thought easier routing would be with the hose on the other side, by the MC reservoir?

 

[draser]

BTW Honda does put an acorn nut on the pivot bolt.

I saw that in the parts view, they just didn't install one on the front brake lever...

Thanks all for the info on preload adjuster travel!!

Moving on to the rear caliper, well... it's not all great. We're not talking lack of maintenance now, it's just neglijent installation. When they serviced the rear caliper they forgot to reinstall the guide clip in the caliper bracket - the one that locates the brake pads - #6 below. Also, pin #13, below, was loose - below is a pic of "as found" condition:





Which, consequently, had the pads dig into the bracket:



And the loose pin:



Talk about a "floating caliper".... Anyway, the pistons seem to be okay (afa corrosion/pitting) so the parts are now in the ultrasonic, then we'll see in the final inspection.

 

[draser]

Ordered a bracket from ebay... waiting on parts again.

 

[draser]

The matter of the SMC - it seems that this component is responsible for brake dragging, have read a lot about it, always wondered how is it different than any other master cylinder.

So, off went the SMC and the left caliper, due for cleaning and inspection anyway. Started out with the SMC, and will describe as found condition below, will leave out the caliper which was probably covered before.

Upon removal of the SMC first inspection points were the bore and the mesh filter piece, below:



Some deposits can be seen and I was hoping is just that and not corrosion. The general condition of the piston and push rod was excellent, no corrosion there. The ports on top correspond with the mesh filter (I thought) location below. All (gentle) attempts to remove the filter with air were unsuccessful, so to the ultrasonic it went.



After ultrasonic it was still difficult to remove the filter, turns out there was some light corrosion in the bore were it's located. Finally the filter came out:




As one can see in the bore where filter was located resides the return port of the MC (now history repeats itself as I had a similar condition on the clutch MC). So, the return port was partially blocked as I was chasing the hole with a copper wire and finally it got in (this will cause late or no pressure release and consequent brake drag). But the main problem was the double mesh filter which, at best, will restrict flow and prevent pressure release. Since I was unable to clean all that rust film and deposits I took the filter apart:



Now, it seems there's a spring loaded mini-valve in there which covers a return port in the plastic body, below, so now this acts like a "proportioning valve" of sorts, and it needs flow to work. Again, removing all these deposits was partially successful so I dropped these in Evaporust, as I was doing some other rust removal as well. Meantime I cleaned the filter location and ensured the return port was open:



I also cleaned the piston bore and it's condition is as new.

Next, on to the calipers. The left side, after initial scrubbing, shows as new, the bores are pristine and the pots have no pitting whatsoever. Hoping the right side is similar.

 

[draser]

While fiddling with the filter/valve body to get all rust out, turns out the top mesh pops off revealing yet another return port for the fluid, below:



Then, the whole thing goes back together and into the SMC:



That's factory clean. Then the SMC/caliper assembly ready to go back in service:

 

[Sadlsor]

I agree, your SMC looks close to factory clean now. You'll be the rare exception who manages to successfully rebuild one.
Wishing you the best of luck.
In the end, be just as careful when refitting the rubber boot into the top of the SMC when back on the left fork leg.

 

[klaproth]

Well done! I agree with @Sadlsor above, you will likely be the rare exception to the rule about just replacing the SMC- I suspected it could be done, and I see why not everyone could do it. I'll be eagerly awaiting results!

 

[draser]

Thanks guys, I just wonder why people don't try fixing it (rather than replacing) as the only thing different than a regular MC (being that a clutch or brake) is the mesh filter in the pressure release circuit of the device - I see people replacing the piston (as if there isn't pressure build up) when, in fact, the pressure release circuit has a problem. Anyways, time will tell... Along the same lines, I wonder about the 2 proportioning valves, should they have similar filters that will be a problem. I'll leave them alone for now, but should I experience any issues I'll open them up.