Looks like a ST1100 in my future!

Red was 95, 96, and 97 IIRC.
If I can be of help, just let me know - I have a little bit of experience with ST1100s ... ;)
If it sat that long and the carbs weren't drained, the idle jets will be stopped up.
The easy way to tell is to start it (once you can) and if it will not idle unless the 'choke' (technically a fuel enricher) is on that would be the issue.
If you put a hot battery in it, pull the fuel line off the filter and turn the key on - with a container handy as gas should squirt out if the fuel pump is working.

Thanks Phil, I just have to figure out how to get past the tupperware... ;)
 
Thanks Phil, I just have to figure out how to get past the tupperware... ;)
Well, here's the start -

1. Remove both saddlebags with the key - slide them back and lift up slightly.
2. Remove the big JIS screw in the middle bottom of the long side panels. There's a small tab at the back that snaps under the tailpiece,
one prong up front into the gas tank shelter, and two prongs at the back - gentle pull and they should come right out.
3. Two 5 mm socket heads on the gas shelter up near the handlebars - 5 mm t-handle will get them, two 10mm hex heads - one on each side of the lower part of the gas tank shelter - with the 4 bolts removed the gas shelter lifts right up.
4. Two 5 mm socket heads in the 'inspection' covers on each side, remove them and gentle slide the cover back.
5. 5 5mm screws in the gray fairing pockets - 3 under the cover, one on the side and one on the back. Then there is a little short 'sheet metal' screw in the tab that sort of sets under the air cleaner area - wiggle the fairing pockets a bit and they will lift right out.
6. If you need up in the speedo area, 5 5mm screws to remove from the windshield (I always leave the middle to last) and it lifts off.
7. The black garnish has 2 5mm screws - one on each side up near where the windshield attaches. Be careful of the tabs as you need to push it back to disengage the tabs then lift it up.
8. The remaining gray cover has two 5 mm screws at the top and two sort of buried at the bottom. And you have to wiggle it a bit to get out from under the speedo garnish.

If you need to remove the lower cowling, lower fairings or upper fairings I can walk you through those also.
If you plan on keeping the bike, I highly recommend replacing the center side panel screws with the hex socket replacement -

90112-MT4-000 - Honda

and the two hex headed gas tank shelter bolts with stainless steel socket heads of the proper length and size (Lowes usually carries them).
With those two 'changes' you can complete strip the ST1100 down to the tailpiece and upper/lower fairings with a single 5 mm t-handle. ;)
BTW, on the upper fairings there is a hex head bolt sort of 'buried' up near the headlight on each side.
You can reach it with long extensions and the fairing pockets removed.
Once I take them out I never put them back (100,000s of miles that way) because then all of the upper fairing screws and bolts are easy to reach.
In fact you can completely strip an ST1100 (except for the tailpiece) with a 5 mm t-handle, 10mm socket, 10 mm wrench and a JIS screwdriver. :biggrin:
 
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Excellent, I copied it to a doc and I'll print it out while working on it!

Thank You! :thumb:
I can probably remove the bodywork off a ST1100 blindfolded I've done it so many times... ;)
As I said, if you run into something just PM me or post it and I'll try to be useful as well as ornamental!
 
I can probably remove the bodywork off a ST1100 blindfolded I've done it so many times... ;)
As I said, if you run into something just PM me or post it and I'll try to be useful as well as ornamental!


LOL I'm like that with the ST1300s... :)

I will, Thanks again!
 
One minor Detail

It's a number 3 JIS screw (what were they thinking?) and you should definitely replace it with the one U.P. recommends.
What's always amazed me is they had the 'proper' one already - why not use it?
There's a 'dimpled' version also but I like the smooth one as the rest of the socket heads are smooth. ;)
 
I used the smooth versions as I did not need the extra dynamic boost the dimpled ones were supposed to provide. ;)
Guaranteed to add 4 mph to your top speed! You know about dimples on golf balls, right? :thumb:

John ( can’t find my old poST/thread on this with the other [CBR?] screws part numbers)
 
Update on the bike!

It is a 1996! :thumb:

I was just talking with my neighbor, he got home early this afternoon. And he parked it in the garage of the house next door to him (his son is moving in come late June)

He was wondering if we could get it running, we could sell it and split the profit. (that would be selling price, minus any thing I would have to put in it.)

So, Unless I want to pay him half of it's worth (after getting it running), I won't be keeping it.

One other catch.... there's always a catch.... The bike is in Probate, so I doubt if I'm going to touch it until my neighbor has the title in hand. :rolleyes:
 
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