Replacement Header Pipes For A ST1100

Hi Phil, can I assume that time has been folded somehow and I missed your recovery time? You know, the time the mature you took to make sure you recovered completely from your latest adventure in the surgical ward? :)
 
Uncle Phil said:
That's just the lighting, they are actually nice and shiny stainless.
I found some metal polish called White Diamond at the auto parts store.
I decided to clean them off since they hadn't been cleaned in probably 10 years and they were off the bike.
That stuff is pretty amazing as it gets all the junk off but the scratches. ;)
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+1 on the White Diamond polish. That stuff is THE BIZ for aluminum to get a beautiful and fast finish!
 
GGely said:
Hi Phil, can I assume that time has been folded somehow and I missed your recovery time? You know, the time the mature you took to make sure you recovered completely from your latest adventure in the surgical ward? :)
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There's a lot a feller can do with one good arm if he can figure it out! :biggrin:
I ain't much on sitting around doing nothing - and I've got left-handed wrenches and ratchets ... ;)
 
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Hi Uncle Phil!! Since you have recently worked on your exhaust..........I'm currently replacing the timing belt and having a heck of a time removing the right downpipes. Any suggestions? Does loosening the silencer to downpipe connection really help all that much? Also, silly question somewhat related, is draining the oil really necessary? I haven't read the procedure all the way through so perhaps it will become evident. I have just recently completed an oil change.
Thank you sir!!
Be well,
Mark
 
I would suggest heavy doses of PBBlaster on the nuts.
I found removing the heat shield bolts were more of an issue that the actual header bolts.
I have never done a timing belt change myself but I believe Jeff B figured out a way to remove the timing cover without removing the oil pan.
Search for ST1100 Timing Belt on this forum and you will probably find the answer you need (several good videos about it).
 
UP said:

I have never done a timing belt change myself but I believe Jeff B figured out a way to remove the timing cover without removing the oil pan.


The timing belt cover can come off without removing the oil pan. I've done it but I don't remember the details as it was probably 10 years ago. I do know there is a mod where you grind off a small section of the plastic and it will slip right on and off the next time. It probably can be found in the link.

ST1100 Archive of Wisdom

History, Technical Articles, Farkles, and Ancient wisdom from the ST1100 Gurus.
www.st-riders.net

EDIT

I did a quick search and found this tip.

Tip#7: The Honda service manual says that the clutch cover must be removed in order to get the timing belt cover off. Not true, thanks to Jeff Bertrand's explanation:

"Loosen the two clutch cover bolts where that cover overlaps the timing belt cover. You can then kinda pry the cover upward with a screwdriver wedged between the rib on the timing cover and the edge of the clutch cover. You will have to work a little to get the cover up over the crank pulley bolt, take the little timing cover off so you can see what you are doing. A little wiggling pulling a cussin' and you'll have it out. Once out, I took a Dremel to mine and carved a notch in the plastic to clear that bolt. This simplified reassembly and should make removing it the next time much easier."
 
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rjskipper said:
Hi Uncle Phil!! Since you have recently worked on your exhaust..........I'm currently replacing the timing belt and having a heck of a time removing the right downpipes. Any suggestions? Does loosening the silencer to downpipe connection really help all that much? Also, silly question somewhat related, is draining the oil really necessary? I haven't read the procedure all the way through so perhaps it will become evident. I have just recently completed an oil change.
Thank you sir!!
Be well,
Mark
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I replaced my timing belt about seven years back, right after I picked up my 1991. I watched some Youtube how-to's before hand. One that was especially helpful showed the job with the engine out of the bike and on a work table. Everything was clearly visible. I did not have to remove either headers or clutch cover as I recall. I did have to modify the small plastic timing bolt cover to clear the clutch cover.
 
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Many thanks to you all. I had taken the "weird background conversation" YouTube how-to as gospel after seeing it referred to. Then searched here (once again!!) to find other solutions that were a great deal less involved. I'm at the point of loosening the clutch cover bolts and am confident (ha ha) that the rest will move right along.
Thank you again!!
Mark
 
You don’t have to drain the oil, loosen header or remove clutch cover to replace the timing belt.

Unless that’s something you want to do, in which case go for it!

Modifying the timing belt cover is the only thing you should do and that’s probably the easiest part of the job.
 
GGely said:
You don’t have to drain the oil, loosen header or remove clutch cover to replace the timing belt.
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I agree, having done two R&Rs. Here’s some info (scroll down for the timing belt):

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *
www.st-riders.net
and some pictures of mine:

Error - ST-Riders Media Gallery

www.st-riders.net www.st-riders.net
HTH

Edit: use the Honda Service Manual, the gold standard. The correct order of install is crank pulley, water pump, left driven, idler, right and tensioner. Use my tip of 51 teeth between the driven pulleys.

John
 
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Edit: use the Honda Service Manual, the gold standard. The correct order of install is crank pulley, water pump, left driven, idler, right and tensioner. Use my tip of 51 teeth between the driven pulleys.

John

When you say crank, left driven, etc., do you mean facing the bike or riding position? The KaTOW how-to would indicate clockwise install when facing the job. Does this make sense? I'm heading out to the garage shortly so will reference the Honda manual when I'm out there.
Thanks again to all.
Mark
 
I mentioned the order because Adam K’s picture caption had it wrong.

About the orientation: always from the rider’s position. Looking at the front of the bike with the belt exposed, the driven pulley at your upper right is the Left Driven Pulley. So… counterclockwise install when facing the job. IOW, leave taking up the slack in the belt in the last run of the belt between the Right Driven Pulley and the Drive (crank) Pulley. HTH

When you take up that slack the Right Driven Pulley should line up with it’s mark (after installing the belt with 51 teeth between the driven pulleys with the Left Driven Pulley fixed/aligned with its mark).

John
 
Thanks again for the clarification. I believe your 51 tooth count is from "UP" arrow to "UP" arrow?

I hope to have this buttoned up by end of day. This all started with the installation of a McCruise I got a crazy-good kijiji (craigslist type site here in Canada) deal a few years back. Figured since I had the plastics off I would check the valve clearances and undertake the TB. I'll also have to move my power block from the tail to up front now. Several "might as well" later......hope to get riding "Red" this week.
Cheers all!!
Mark
 
51 teeth between the marks on the driven pulleys. But you should count them on your old belt before removing it to confirm (as I suspect you will).

From my gallery:

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Mark - On the MCCruise, if it is one with the vacuum actuator, you can put that thing in the front and make it work.
I've done that on all four of my ST1100s and it saves a lot of space in the tailpiece.
I've got pictures around somewhere of what I did if you need them.
 
Thanks to you both for speedy input!! I'll count the teeth before installation. Great method!
The cruise is installed so I'll get to moving the power block. Thanks for the input though. Yes, it is the one with the vacuum canister. I have my Autocomm SuperPro Avi box in the tail as well.
Man!! I have to get riding!! The GL1800 is fun BUT, its not the ST!!
Mark
 
The vacuum canister actually fits very nicely up on the left side near the fairing pockets beside the fairing 'upright'.
You have to lengthen the wire but it frees up all that space in the tailpiece.
Beware if you put anything 'electrical' up near the headlight, the opportunity for water intrusion is great.
And you want easy access to your fuse block without having to remove a lot of bodywork.
For example, I was a trip out west and one of the glove wires from my heated jacket liner broken and kept popping the fuse after it 'warmed up' a while.
It took me a day or two to finally trace down the short but it was cold and I needed the heat.
So blown fuses are not always caused by the circuit wiring but what ends up plugged into it. ;)
 
Got the belt and pulleys replaced. 51 teeth took a bit of effort to attain but with the tensioner fully retracted, the belt went right on. Trimmed the crank "opening" as suggested.

Although the "old" belt had been replaced about 45K miles ago, it was also 18 years ago!! The new belt is clearly more pliable, particularly the teeth. The upper surface on the old (Honda OEM) belt was ok compared to the teeth. No cracks or anything like that. As I was putting it back together, I mused about the gaskets on the belt and pulley covers. Are these typically replaced or perhaps a smear of silicone gasket? They don't seem to protrude much beyond the surface. It looks like the PO had the thin layer of silicone gasket.
Thanks for all the valuable input. I appreciate your time.
Mark
 
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