This is a repost from my introduction post with some corrections and add-ons.
I'm going to get some pictures posted for a bit of visual aid.
I hope someone can use this info.
So, here's my contribution to this forum.
It's a completely original creation or idea, if you will.
Any other idea that maybe similar is purely coincidental.
Please let me know if you have heard of this idea before.
Read through this entire process once before you try to figure it out.
When I first got my ST1100, it was equipped with 1" handlebar risers, as many ST's that I've notice are also modded.
Great invention, these risers.
However, these risers cause the handlebar trim/cover panel to float up to 1" above the ignition/key switch.
This 1" gap causes the stock Honda keygrip to drag inside of the trim hole and sometimes bind.
It also offers less of the key to hold and turn comfortably.
I looked through many key blanks at many hardware stores for a suitable substitute that would help with this problem.
I had these many stores cut many experimental keys for me before I finally put together the right combination of
key blank and key cutting method to work perfectly for this configuration.
Go to a Lowes or Home Depot or any store where you can purchase at least two Axxess brand key blanks, number 30 only!!
Do not allow them to cut the key!!
The Axxess key cutting machine does not allow for proper locating of the key blank for this cutting.
Take these key blanks to your friendly neighborhood ACE hardware store.
You may also opt to take these blanks to a locksmith.
In any case, make sure that the store has the old style key cutting machine with the open cutters
where the operator can freely clamp the key into the machine.
First, you must convince the key cutting operator to be patient and you that know exactly what you want to achieve here.
You'll have to supervise the operation in order to have it done properly,
but it shouldn't be a difficult concept for an experienced key cutting operator to grasp.
Have the original/stock key clamped normally into the cutting machine to be copied,
then have the operator carefully clamp your number 30 key blank into the machine.
It must be clamped so as to match the shoulder of the keys to one another.
The original key's shoulder will be square, as oppsosed to the tapered shoulder of the #30 key blank.
Match the widest point of the taper to the square shoulder of original key.
It sounds complicated but, it's a simple concept, if you examine and compare the original to your #30 key blank.
The next and final cut is more critical than the first because it must match the first opposed cut perfectly in order to work in the lock/switch.
Make sure that the widest points of the tapered shoulder are used as the points of reference
for getting the cuts exactly opposite from one another.
Your efforts will be richly rewarded with an ST key, that is almost an inch taller where it counts.
This new key will clear your handlebar cover/panel, with a large, comfortable gripping surface and will operate all of your ST's locks.
If you take the project to a locksmith shop, they may know exactly what you're trying to achieve and cut it without too much supervision.
You want the length of the cut portion of the #30 key to precisely match the original.
Also both sides must be cut in symmetry in order for the key to work.
A cheap fix for what I found to be a very annoying problem.
Try it out and please let me know your comments.
This idea should work on most any bike that has the same problem.
You'll just have to find the compatible key blank.
I'm going to get some pictures posted for a bit of visual aid.
I hope someone can use this info.
So, here's my contribution to this forum.
It's a completely original creation or idea, if you will.
Any other idea that maybe similar is purely coincidental.
Please let me know if you have heard of this idea before.
Read through this entire process once before you try to figure it out.
When I first got my ST1100, it was equipped with 1" handlebar risers, as many ST's that I've notice are also modded.
Great invention, these risers.
However, these risers cause the handlebar trim/cover panel to float up to 1" above the ignition/key switch.
This 1" gap causes the stock Honda keygrip to drag inside of the trim hole and sometimes bind.
It also offers less of the key to hold and turn comfortably.
I looked through many key blanks at many hardware stores for a suitable substitute that would help with this problem.
I had these many stores cut many experimental keys for me before I finally put together the right combination of
key blank and key cutting method to work perfectly for this configuration.
Go to a Lowes or Home Depot or any store where you can purchase at least two Axxess brand key blanks, number 30 only!!
Do not allow them to cut the key!!
The Axxess key cutting machine does not allow for proper locating of the key blank for this cutting.
Take these key blanks to your friendly neighborhood ACE hardware store.
You may also opt to take these blanks to a locksmith.
In any case, make sure that the store has the old style key cutting machine with the open cutters
where the operator can freely clamp the key into the machine.
First, you must convince the key cutting operator to be patient and you that know exactly what you want to achieve here.
You'll have to supervise the operation in order to have it done properly,
but it shouldn't be a difficult concept for an experienced key cutting operator to grasp.
Have the original/stock key clamped normally into the cutting machine to be copied,
then have the operator carefully clamp your number 30 key blank into the machine.
It must be clamped so as to match the shoulder of the keys to one another.
The original key's shoulder will be square, as oppsosed to the tapered shoulder of the #30 key blank.
Match the widest point of the taper to the square shoulder of original key.
It sounds complicated but, it's a simple concept, if you examine and compare the original to your #30 key blank.
The next and final cut is more critical than the first because it must match the first opposed cut perfectly in order to work in the lock/switch.
Make sure that the widest points of the tapered shoulder are used as the points of reference
for getting the cuts exactly opposite from one another.
Your efforts will be richly rewarded with an ST key, that is almost an inch taller where it counts.
This new key will clear your handlebar cover/panel, with a large, comfortable gripping surface and will operate all of your ST's locks.
If you take the project to a locksmith shop, they may know exactly what you're trying to achieve and cut it without too much supervision.
You want the length of the cut portion of the #30 key to precisely match the original.
Also both sides must be cut in symmetry in order for the key to work.
A cheap fix for what I found to be a very annoying problem.
Try it out and please let me know your comments.
This idea should work on most any bike that has the same problem.
You'll just have to find the compatible key blank.
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