Article [11] ST1100 - How to do an emergency bypass of the fuel valve

CYYJ

Michael
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The ST 1100 has a fuel valve that is operated by vacuum from the engine. This valve has been known to fail, and like most failures, it won't happen in your driveway - odds are that it will happen when you are a long way from home.

The valve usually doesn't fail abruptly and bring you to a halt. Instead, you'll experience a loss of power, as if not enough fuel is getting to the engine (which is exactly the cause of the problem). The bike will decelerate, and after a little while, you will be able to accelerate again, only to have the bike once again lose power... the cycle repeats about once every 3 to 5 minutes.

The purpose of this article is to explain how to do an "emergency bypass" of the fuel valve in case you encounter this problem when you are away from home. It's a simple fix that only requires a Phillips screwdriver, a hex-key, and a pair of pliers.

The fuel valve on my ST 1100 failed way back in 2005. At that time, I did a write-up with pictures on Steiner's My-Mc forum, but that forum has since shut down. So, here's a repeat of the post I made just after carrying out my emergency roadside repair.

1) Remove the seat, the right side cover, and the false fuel tank cover.
You might have to remove the left side cover to get the false fuel tank cover off - but, maybe not.
To remove these covers, you need the Phillips screwdriver and the hex key.
The fuel valve is on the right side of the motorcycle (see the red arrow).
1.jpg

2) This is what the valve looks like once you get the covers off.
Fuel enters from the hose in the bottom left of the picture, goes through the filter, makes a 180° turn, goes through the fuel valve, then exits forward into the carburetors.

2.jpg

3) The 'emergency bypass' is really simple to carry out: follow the 3 steps in the picture below.
First, disconnect the hose that delivers fuel to the carburetors. That hose is partially hidden in the photo below.
Next, disconnect the hose from the forward end of the fuel filter.
Finally, connect the fuel delivery to the carburetor hose to the forward end of the fuel filter.
3.jpg

4) When you have finished, it should look like this:
The lower end of the 180° turn hose remains disconnected, and the hose that was connected to the outlet of the fuel valve is now connected to the outlet of the fuel filter. The arrows show the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetors, bypassing the valve entirely.

4.jpg

5) Disconnect (pull off) and plug the hose that supplies vacuum to the fuel valve.
The fuel valve is operated by vacuum sourced from the engine. Because your fuel valve has failed, it is possible that there might be an open path between the vacuum source hose and either the outlet or inlet of the failed fuel valve. The presence of a large vacuum leak like this will degrade engine performance, so, you should plug the vacuum line, just to be on the safe side.

As we know, the ST 1100 has zillions of little bolts holding Tupperware panels in place all over the bike. Locate a bolt that you think you can live without, remove it, and stuff it into the end of the vacuum line. That will prevent any vacuum leaks.
5.jpg

The procedure described above will get you back on the road again with a fully-functional motorcycle. Provided you have the 3 necessary tools (Phillips screwdriver, hex-key for the Tupperware false fuel tank, and a pair of pliers for squeezing the clamps on the fuel hoses), it only takes about 30 to 45 minutes to complete this roadside repair.

I don't know why the motorcycle has this fuel valve. My valve failed in May, I carried out the bypass in May, and rode for another 6,000 miles that year. When I dropped the bike off at the dealer for winter storage and maintenance, I had them replace the fuel valve. I didn't encounter any problems that summer riding around with the valve bypassed.

There are a number of threads here in our forum that discuss how to repair and/or rebuild the fuel valve once you get back home. Here are links to them:

ST1100-Fuel Shutoff Repair
ST1100 Vacuum Fuel Shutoff Repair Sequence
Vacuum Fuel Valve Rebuild

Michael
 
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The engineer may have a better reason/excuse for this valve, possibly an emissions requirement. From an experience with my 1991, it seems to prevent fuel from migrating into the carbs when the engine is off. I had an extremely 'loud' raw fuel smell in my garage after parking on hot afternoons so I rebuilt the vacuum valve and the problem was cured. Note that I also found the fuel cap vent was plugged so that was probably the issue that forced fuel through the aging valve when parked. Most owners who have removed their valve report no downside when riding.
 
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Thank you Michael, I'll remember that.
I can't remember the symptoms you reported in May, was there any warning or was it just a case of no fuel when trying to restart.
Upt'North.
 

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Thank you Michael, I'll remember that.
I can't remember the symptoms you reported in May, was there any warning or was it just a case of no fuel when trying to restart.
Upt'North.
If in fails 'in route', you just run out of gas. Sort of like when the carbs ice up or the fuel pump fails.
 

Ron

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quote "As we know, the ST 1100 has zillions of little bolts holding Tupperware panels in place all over the bike. Locate a bolt that you think you can live without, remove it, and stuff it into the end of the vacuum line. That will prevent any vacuum leaks."

I used one of the screws used to mount the valve to the air cleaner box. It's right there. Remove them both and you can put the valve in a more "suitable" place. Mine is about 40'off the south side of east I-40 somewhere in Arizona.
 
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CYYJ

CYYJ

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I can't remember the symptoms you reported in May, was there any warning or was it just a case of no fuel when trying to restart.
Well, don't feel bad about your memory - it was May of 2005, not this past May. :)

In my case, the valve didn't fail abruptly & cut off all fuel. What happened was that the bike would suddenly lose power, and decelerate from about 200 km/h (125 mph) to about 60 km/h (40 mph), and then struggle along at 40 mph. If I pulled over to the side of the road and let the bike idle for a few minutes, I could accelerate to high speed again, but the problem would return in 3 or 4 minutes.

I was in Germany, on the autobahn, at the time - the pictures above were taken at a service station in Germany.

Michael
 
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you can take the fuel valve apart very easily. Its a very simple valve. does it get gummed up or does the vacuum diaphragm start leaking??:think1:
 
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Well, don't feel bad about your memory - it was May of 2005, not this past May. :)

In my case, the valve didn't fail abruptly & cut off all fuel. What happened was that the bike would suddenly lose power, and decelerate from about 200 km/h (125 mph) to about 60 km/h (40 mph), and then struggle along at 40 mph. If I pulled over to the side of the road and let the bike idle for a few minutes, I could accelerate to high speed again, but the problem would return in 3 or 4 minutes.

I was in Germany, on the autobahn, at the time - the pictures above were taken at a service station in Germany.

Michael
Thank you Michael.
I can't remember a lot about 2005, errrrr, no nothing at all comes to mind.
But thanks for the update it could be invaluable to lots of us. I too ride in Europe most years and motorcycle mechanics are few and far between, especially on the Autobahns.
Talking of Autobahns, my recent experience is they are a pain in the Arris, roadworks, speed limits, German drivers trying to kill you if you dare to filter even at almost stationary speeds and traffic is worse than the M25! OK not quite that bad.
Upt'North.
 

ibike2havefun

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Great article! Even though I ride a 1300 and won't experience this issue, I enjoyed reading the clear, concise description of the problem and its solution.
 
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On my last group ride the riders behind me complained about the strong exhaust smell coming from my bike. After research on this forum I suspect a failed fuel valve that is letting fuel into the vacuum line.
 
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Mine failed on day one of a 3 day trip. I was close to a cycle dealer and had it towed. They said the vacuum diaphram needed replaced and so I let them. As I remember it was about $300.00 when finally done, then I saw an article when I got home about the bypass. Pays to keep up on the suggestions in this forum.
 
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you can take the fuel valve apart very easily. Its a very simple valve. does it get gummed up or does the vacuum diaphragm start leaking??:think1:
I removed mine because I was getting the strong fuel smell after shutoff symptom and eventually I noticed my #3 plug was fouled (from fuel leaking through the vacuum line). After removing it I opened it up to see how it had failed and the diaphragm had a small tear in it, which explained the fuel leak path into the vacuum line. Even with the failed diaphragm it was still allowing the bike to run normally, so I'm not sure what happens to cause the fuel flow to get cutoff and leave you stranded.
 
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I removed mine because I was getting the strong fuel smell after shutoff symptom and eventually I noticed my #3 plug was fouled (from fuel leaking through the vacuum line). After removing it I opened it up to see how it had failed and the diaphragm had a small tear in it, which explained the fuel leak path into the vacuum line. Even with the failed diaphragm it was still allowing the bike to run normally, so I'm not sure what happens to cause the fuel flow to get cutoff and leave you stranded.
Blocked vacuum pipe?
Upt'North.
 
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Mine failed abruptly out of town(ofcourse) tow home n next day that sucka was off,been in the draw for about 50k no probs
 

ChriSTian_64

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I removed mine because I was getting the strong fuel smell after shutoff symptom and eventually I noticed my #3 plug was fouled (from fuel leaking through the vacuum line). After removing it I opened it up to see how it had failed and the diaphragm had a small tear in it, which explained the fuel leak path into the vacuum line. Even with the failed diaphragm it was still allowing the bike to run normally, so I'm not sure what happens to cause the fuel flow to get cutoff and leave you stranded.
Thanks to confirm that dwalby.

Yeah... I have the symptoms that you are describing. I guess they are a kind of pre-fail warnings or early stages of a failing to come.
I guess, a tear or a hole in the diaphragm is the early stage. But the valve still works, eventhough it start to leak a bit thru the vacuum hose and into the cylinder #3.
Then, as it gets more damaged, it starts to work more erraticaly, or randomly. There is probably different factor playing.
 
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I suspect a slight hole in the diaphragm on the fuel shut off valve of Matron. Or maybe in the diaphragms in the carbs. This is a really useful roadside fix that I'll use as a quick check for the shut off valve. The symptoms I get are limited performance, and fuel smell after shut down. At 70-80mph she just becomes gutless and has nothing left to give/struggles to maintain speed on inclines. Don't really have the space to go into the carbs (for me this would be a multi day job as I steadily work my way though), so fingers crossed this is the culprit. If it is, I expect I'll rebuild/replace the valve.
 

jfheath

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I think the fuel valve is to prevent fuel flowing in the event of the bike landing upside down at the side of the road. The bank angle sensor cuts the engine, the lack of vacuum when the engine stops cuts the fuel.

I don't know if there's any risk of a fuel syphon when it is upright with the valve bypassed.
 
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I suspect a slight hole in the diaphragm on the fuel shut off valve of Matron. Or maybe in the diaphragms in the carbs. This is a really useful roadside fix that I'll use as a quick check for the shut off valve. The symptoms I get are limited performance, and fuel smell after shut down. At 70-80mph she just becomes gutless and has nothing left to give/struggles to maintain speed on inclines. Don't really have the space to go into the carbs (for me this would be a multi day job as I steadily work my way though), so fingers crossed this is the culprit. If it is, I expect I'll rebuild/replace the valve.
As John says, it is a safety feature designed to stop the fuel pump from pumping (when the key is still ON), if the bike ends up on the ground. I repaired mine, but it didn't last, failing again on the side of a mountain road. Now it no longer resides on my bike.
 
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