Fork oil changed

I had a Tech at a dealership try and tell me that I could simply remove the front wheel, and put a K&L jack under the engine, then lower the front end until for forks were "almost left" then measure the oil. "that's how we do it"....its scary I tell ya!
:rofl1:
 
dduelin said:
True dat. The measuring cup only gets you in the ball park. For OCD work you'll need a fork oil gauge to set the levels the same on both sides. I made this one out of a syringe and a piece of plastic tubing cut to a length so the level is set at 65 mm. I made mine but Motion Pro makes a nice one.

The pics show my homemade fork oil gauge at work and the set of OEM and custom spacers.
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I think I'll try the longer spacers when I pull mine apart to replace fork seals Dave. I'm about the same weight as you.
 
Throttlejockey said:
I think I'll try the longer spacers when I pull mine apart to replace fork seals Dave. I'm about the same weight as you.
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If you do this look for 1.5" outside diameter PVC pipe or just go to the sink plumbing section at a hardware store and look for PVC sink drains. They are 1.5" OD and long enough to cut a spacer from. The wall thickness is thin but they are plenty strong for this job. It is important to cut the end as square as possible.
 
dduelin said:
If you do this look for 1.5" outside diameter PVC pipe or just go to the sink plumbing section at a hardware store and look for PVC sink drains. They are 1.5" OD and long enough to cut a spacer from. The wall thickness is thin but they are plenty strong for this job. It is important to cut the end as square as possible.
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When I installed Sonic springs recently, I used my electric miter saw to cut the PVC---works great with a perfect smooth square cut. (measure twice and use edge of saw blade to find it's mark before cutting)
 
dduelin said:
If you do this look for 1.5" outside diameter PVC pipe or just go to the sink plumbing section at a hardware store and look for PVC sink drains. They are 1.5" OD and long enough to cut a spacer from. The wall thickness is thin but they are plenty strong for this job. It is important to cut the end as square as possible.
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Thanks for the size info. Now I can get everything before I pull it apart.
 
A cautionary note about longer spacers ........ the extra preload on the spring means it is a bit more difficult to get the fork cap pressed down and the extra fine threads on the tube and cap started when the legs are reassembled. It can be done but at first it may seem impossible without a helper or a spring compressor.
 
A few follow ups from my fork spring/fluid exchange....I went with RaceTech springs (a bit heavier for my weight - 210 lb with gear).

As mentioned, pump the fork many, many times to help remove fluid. Then let it hang overnight to drain more. Pump a few more times and call it good.

I went with the RaceTech 10w fork oil, which they recommended. As mentioned in a previous post, there are no standard weights/viscosities for fork and suspension fluid. one man's 10w is anothers 15w. However, I'm happy with the feel I've gotten from this combination. I prefer a stiffer ride to a plush one (but nothing is as stiff as what my Ducati once was).

A graduated measuring cup (such as one uses to do 2-stroke premix) will get you pretty darn close to the right amount of fluid in each leg. To get it to the right level, I take a simple cooking baster (turkey baster), and mark an appropriate point from the bottom. I then wrap a strip of duct tape around it, with the 'upper' edge of the tape aligning with the point I'd marked on the baster. The baster is clear, this way you can see if you are above that level or not? Simply squeeze the baster tube and insert the baster into the fork tube (tubes collapsed) until the top point of the tape aligns with the top of the fork tube. Then release the bulb and it will suck up any fluid. No fluid in the baster means you either haven't put in enough fluid or its at the right level already. Fluid in the tube is how much excess you need to remove. I do this a couple times just to make sure I'm at the right amount. Also, you don't want to stick the baster in, then squeeze the bulb or you end up with air bubbles in your fluid that will alter the fluid height.

Also, put the fork caps back on before you put the tubes in the bike and the tire back on...much, much easier that way.

Pretty easy stuff once you've done it.
 
All done. New fork seals, oil change and longer spacers. Used my miter saw to cut the spacers.

The hardest part was getting the torque wrench on the lower pinch bolts. Next time I'll remove more tupperware. How much did you guys remove when pulling the forks?
 
You guys have me thinking I should try this soon. I have 65K on the original everything. If Darin Doolin used 216mm spacer at 150lb I guess I'll try 432mm and see what happens. How hard was it to get the fork out of the clamp(s)?
 
Dinkie Diesel said:
You guys have me thinking I should try this soon. I have 65K on the original everything. If Darin Doolin used 216mm spacer at 150lb I guess I'll try 432mm and see what happens. How hard was it to get the fork out of the clamp(s)?
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432mm.....that's funny!
They come out easy. I couldn't believe how tight the fork caps were though. Be sure to have a 17mm allen wrench to remove them. The oil change is simple.
 
On the 3 sets I've done this month, I just put a couple drops of PB Blaster on them, let them sit for a couple minutes, then they easily came loose with hand pressure and a large allen key.
 
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Loosen the fork caps before you remove the forks from the triple clamps. Follow the instructions for removing the front tire, then loosen the top clamp bolts, then the fork caps (just loosen, don't remove), then loosen the lower clamp bolts. Once you remove the fork tube (it should slide right out...if not, 'twist' the upper tube a bit), then you can put the tube in a soft vise and finish removing the fork cap (have the tube pointed up). Pretty easy stuff.
Replacing the tube is the same process in revers. Just get the cap started in a vise, then put the tube back into the triple tree clamps. Tighten the fork cap before tightening the top clamp bolts.
 
Providing the front wheel is still removed, you can use a standard length torque wrench on the lower pinch bolts by using a short or standard length socket and coming up from the bottom of the fork leg. Its a tight fit, but can be done on the (4) lower bolts, as far as the top pinch bolts go, the trick here is to use a 6 inch extension with the forks turned full lock in each direction, the extension allows the torque wrench to clear the body work (glove box) and nothing has to be removed.
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Igofar said:
Providing the front wheel is still removed, you can use a standard length torque wrench on the lower pinch bolts by using a short or standard length socket and coming up from the bottom of the fork leg. Its a tight fit, but can be done on the (4) lower bolts, as far as the top pinch bolts go, the trick here is to use a 4 inch extension with the forks turned full lock in each direction, the extension allows the torque wrench to clear the body work (glove box) and nothing has to be removed.
.02
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I was looking down at the fender and tire as I was trying and realized I should have done it before they were on. Now I know for the next time.
 
Igofar said:
Providing the front wheel is still removed, you can use a standard length torque wrench on the lower pinch bolts by using a short or standard length socket and coming up from the bottom of the fork leg. Its a tight fit, but can be done on the (4) lower bolts, as far as the top pinch bolts go, the trick here is to use a 6 inch extension with the forks turned full lock in each direction, the extension allows the torque wrench to clear the body work (glove box) and nothing has to be removed.
.02
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And here is proof to the sceptics that you can torque the upper clamp with all the tupperware installed.

20130209_165457[1].jpg
 
I did not need to use an extension on the upper bolt. There is plenty of clearance to use a torque wrench on the upper bolts with just a socket on the torque wrench, at least with my torque wrench. It is the lower ones that require me to remove the inner cowlings because I assemble and tighten the pinch bolts with the wheel in place.

I assemble the wheel into the forks before tightening the 6 clamp pinch bolts because I raise the forks up in the clamps before torquing the pinch bolts to regain some of the original steering geometry lost when setting the sag at 36mm with the new spacers. Reducing sag raises the ride height which changes the steering geometry and makes the bike turn in a little slower from the extra rake.

Having the axle and wheel in place ensures there is no binding or stiction in the forks from one leg or the other slightly out of alignment when assembled separate from the wheel. I still have the jack under the oil pan when I assemble the fork and wheel in the clamps, then let the jack down slowly. The fork tubes slide up in the clamps together as a unit as the jack lowers and it is easy to measure and set at 4 or 5 mm drop. The axle and clamps are perfectly parallel and aligned when done like this. Tighten and torque the clamp pinch bolts.

After torquing the pinch bolts in the clamps, remove the jack and get the bike off the centerstand. I loosen the left side axle pinch bolts, bounce the forks to align the fork tubes in parallel to each other, then torque the left axle pinch bolts. Install the inner cowlings to finish the job.
 
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