New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

[DeanR]

These Evitek bulbs have been great so far. Particularly the bright pure white light for being seen, as a number of people have commented on that.

One thing got me thinking. As I turn the key, you hear the LED fans kick in. They run all the time. So if the LEDs have a lifespan of a gazzillion hours, how about those fan motors?

 

[spiderman302]

The fans are brush-less. So the only thing that will wear out is the bearings. These are the same type of fans that are cooling the CPU in your desk top computer and those things run 24/7 for years. Unless they get clogged with dust and dirt. Maybe blow them out with compressed air once a year and you should be fine.

 

[SupraSabre]

Yeah, but don't run them off a non-LED modulator for any length of time (like all day), One dead modulator and one dead LED lightbulb!

 

[spiderman302]

SupraSabre:

Sorry it did not work out for your modulator. I know that you want to make it work. I would try connecting the modulator between the regulator module and the LED.
If that does not work, if I could get a schematic, I could modify the circuit to make it work for you...

 

[SupraSabre]

SupraSabre:

Sorry it did not work out for your modulator. I know that you want to make it work. I would try connecting the modulator between the regulator module and the LED.
If that does not work, if I could get a schematic, I could modify the circuit to make it work for you...

I'm still using the ones in the 2010. Since they are only running an hour and a half at the most, they seem to be okay. It's when I was on my trip that the ones on the 2012 failed.

The one LED headlight that failed, neither the highbeam nor low beam would come on. If you want, I can send that light to you and maybe you can figure out what happened to it?

 

[spiderman302]

Your best bet is to contact Signal Dynamics and explain your situation. It looks like they might be working on a LED modulator. You would be a great beta tester for them if they have a new product...

But I am not too sure they will be very successful. Since the regulator will compensate for any 100% to 30% voltage fluctuation. The only way to do it from in input side is to drive the light on/off with a solid state relay. but that would not meet the DOT requirement. Maybe one could emulate the effect by switching between hi and low beam at the 4 hz rate. or flashing one of the two leds. Major surgery required....

To dim the led you have to control the power between the regulator and the led. The Evitek has a bunch of wires in the bundle. the red wire is for the low beam and the yellow wire is for the high beam. I cut the red wire and the low beam leds went out but the fan kept running (a good thing).

The black a white wires are the negative returns one for each side. This maybe where you could flash one side of the bulb..... I will try some resistors tomorrow to see if i can get the leds to dim.

now last year when I last talked to Evitek one of the several improvements that I had suggested to them was to bring out an extra wire from the regulator that if grounded it would either just dim the light or better it would modulate the light at the 4 hz rate...

Since you have been using a Modulator that "is not suppose to work with LED's" for a while. I am thinking that the one that died may have overheated. so make sure that it is located where it and the regulator gets good air flow.

 

[SupraSabre]

Your best bet is to contact Signal Dynamics and explain your situation. It looks like they might be working on a LED modulator. You would be a great beta tester for them if they have a new product...

But I am not too sure they will be very successful. Since the regulator will compensate for any 100% to 30% voltage fluctuation. The only way to do it from in input side is to drive the light on/off with a solid state relay. but that would not meet the DOT requirement. Maybe one could emulate the effect by switching between hi and low beam at the 4 hz rate. or flashing one of the two leds. Major surgery required....

To dim the led you have to control the power between the regulator and the led. The Evitek has a bunch of wires in the bundle. the red wire is for the low beam and the yellow wire is for the high beam. I cut the red wire and the low beam leds went out but the fan kept running (a good thing).

The black a white wires are the negative returns one for each side. This maybe where you could flash one side of the bulb..... I will try some resistors tomorrow to see if i can get the leds to dim.

now last year when I last talked to Evitek one of the several improvements that I had suggested to them was to bring out an extra wire from the regulator that if grounded it would either just dim the light or better it would modulate the light at the 4 hz rate...

Since you have been using a Modulator that "is not suppose to work with LED's" for a while. I am thinking that the one that died may have overheated. so make sure that it is located where it and the regulator gets good air flow.

Yeah, I've been told SDC is working on a LED Modulator. I'm on their "Can't have it soon enough" List.

In the meantime, I'll just leave things as they are until something else quits!

 

[ST Gui]

The only way to do it from in input side is to drive the light on/off with a solid state relay.

As a DIY alternative to a commercial LED compatible modulator (who makes one?) that's how I'd roll. I'm considering separate small LED lights instead but that would be just as illegal and more importantly- obviously illegal. No gray area to attempt to debate.

True it's not DOT legal. But here in CA I'd be tempted to trust that most street and even traffic officers would buy it as modulation and not be likely to consider modulation vs On/Off. Used intermittently and not full time would help keep me off the radar so to speak.

In limited use couldn't the On/Off cycling be somewhat masked by leaving the low beam on? Or would this be too hot. Maybe keeping the off portion of the cycle a little longer than the On portion?

 

[SupraSabre]

As a DIY alternative to a commercial LED compatible modulator (who makes one?) that's how I'd roll. I'm considering separate small LED lights instead but that would be just as illegal and more importantly- obviously illegal. No gray area to attempt to debate.

True it's not DOT legal. But here in CA I'd be tempted to trust that most street and even traffic officers would buy it as modulation and not be likely to consider modulation vs On/Off. Used intermittently and not full time would help keep me off the radar so to speak.

In limited use couldn't the On/Off cycling be somewhat masked by leaving the low beam on? Or would this be too hot. Maybe keeping the off portion of the cycle a little longer than the On portion?

I mostly use them when Lane Splitting or if I'm driving around off the freeway. I want people to see me. And like you, it is really a fine line between modulation and off/on. And besides, who's going to sit there and stare at your lights (LED lights) to determine if they are legal?

 

[spiderman302]

Sorry, got busy at work with real work. I only got a few minutes to try to put a resistor between the regulator and the Led. I was hoping it was just using a voltage source but it turned out to be a current source. Putting a resistor in the circuit caused the input power to increase and the current through the led to be the same. That is no change in brightness. The problem here is the input current is 1.6 amps and the current through the LEDs is 2.6 amps. (20 watts) To dim the leds I would have to put the resistor in parallel with the LED to siphon off the power. This would be very power wasteful and would create a lot of heat in the added shunt resistor (15 watts). Time for more surgery...

The regulator is potted with a black sticky goo. I will see if I can clean it out and see if I can find the feedback resistor in the current control loop... It is just a simple buck switching regulator... (the best solution)

I will also measure the switching frequency and check the startup and hold up times to see if we could just pulse width modulate the input power. (the sloppy solution)

Sorry for the tech talk, - it is part of what I do for a living...

Now where is my big hammer......

 

[SupraSabre]

Sorry, got busy at work with real work.

Don'tcha just hate it when that happens!

I only got a few minutes to try to put a resistor between the regulator and the Led. I was hoping it was just using a voltage source but it turned out to be a current source. Putting a resistor in the circuit caused the input power to increase and the current through the led to be the same. That is no change in brightness. The problem here is the input current is 1.6 amps and the current through the LEDs is 2.6 amps. (20 watts) To dim the leds I would have to put the resistor in parallel with the LED to siphon off the power. This would be very power wasteful and would create a lot of heat in the added shunt resistor (15 watts). Time for more surgery...

The regulator is potted with a black sticky goo. I will see if I can clean it out and see if I can find the feedback resistor in the current control loop... It is just a simple buck switching regulator... (the best solution)

I will also measure the switching frequency and check the startup and hold up times to see if we could just pulse width modulate the input power. (the sloppy solution)

Sorry for the tech talk, - it is part of what I do for a living...

Now where is my big hammer......

Yeah, that makes perfect sense! (Someone want to tell us in plain English, what he just said?) As you can tell, I know very little about electronics!

But that doesn't stop me from trying things

 

[mcycleboy]

Thanks to All - I have one question about the rubber boots.

Made the conversion to the Evitek LED lights and I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. The job was easier than changing my regular Halogen bulbs thanks to the detachable base design of these LEDs. In my installation I made the beam angle correction by doing the cut of the plastic nib that Spiderman302 showed in pictures (post #18) and it worked perfectly to allow me to level the beams. The rubber boots went back on easily with no mods. I was able access the light simply by removing only the Rt and Lf black inside cowling pieces which gave me enough room to do the job mostly from below. I found that everything worked exactly right the first time. The beam height was good, the focus was good and the low beam cut-off was spot on. I got no oncoming vehicles flashing me with my beams on low. Results are a marked improvement in my ability to see and I am satisfied that this is a long term solution. I do have one question that I did not see addressed anywhere, and that is this: Because the rubber boots don't need a modification does anyone know if the LED fans are restricted in flowing air to the bulbs as I am not sure how air-tight the boots are? I expect they probably allow enough air to flow out but I am not sure they don't impede the cooling of the LED bulbs at least a bit. Anyone with opinions on that ?

 

[ST Gui]

My guess is that the bulbs themselves (the LEDs inside the headlight shell) don't really need the cooling. It's the base with the electronics in the base that need it.

 

[Northernkm]

Hi All,

So OK, like countless other ST Owners at one time or another, I'm looking at a fried left low beam (DRL) on my 05 ST1300. I'm looking to replace both lamps with LED, but the EVITEK G6 H4 is not available for shipment directly to a Canadian address. And the border ain't close in my case...

So with all the numerous conversations about H4 bulbs and tabs and LED light dispersion... I have found this to be available for shipment to me. It looks like it might work, if I can manage the tabs of course. Comments before I go ahead and order?

https://www.amazon.ca/NIGHTEYE-Headlight-Conversion-Driving-8000LM/dp/B01J7KJF0E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1476819018&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=evitek+H4+led&th=1

 

[spiderman302]

Northernkm:
The bulb that you can get looks like it will work. It does not seem to have a fan, however on the st1300 this heatsink will get a lot of air flow so you should be OK. I had a similar fanless light (G7) on my St1300 since last March without any problems (i never put a fan on it). see

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?151403-New-quot-G7-quot-H4-LED-bulb-with-a-SHIELD-by-GENSSI-III-Elite-is-almost-there-buyer-beware&highlight=

I just swapped out the G7 with one made by DEDC. The left side still has the Evitek g6 but I have another bulb coming in that I will put on the left to evaluate. There are now a lot of H4 shielded bulbs by other vendors that will work. The nighteye will give you a nice thin beam (like the G7) that will really light up the horizon. let us know how it works out for you.

Mcycleboy:
The LEDs get very hot (~100 C). The heat is conducted back to the heatsink via a thick aluminum, or copper bar. The heat is removed from the heat sink by moving air. the electronic regulator is very efficient (90%) and does not get hot maybe warm (2 watts). The fan on the G6 sucks air through the back and out the sides. So the rubber boot does not restrict the cooling of the bulb. The St1300a has a lot of air flow where the heat sinks protrude. Some bikes put covers over the back of the headlight and would restrict the air flow this would reduce the life of the bulb. if you have a cover drill lots of holes to get some air flow.... a thermal photo will answer a lot of questions.

 

[beeker]

I believe this is the one I got from Amazon.com who delivered to me in Ontario. If I remember correctly I was not eligable for free shipping but the cost was not onerous.
Dennis
https://www.amazon.com/Evitek-Headlight-Bulbs-Motorcycles-9003/dp/B017M566T4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476874914&sr=8-1&keywords=evitek+led

Hi All,

So OK, like countless other ST Owners at one time or another, I'm looking at a fried left low beam (DRL) on my 05 ST1300. I'm looking to replace both lamps with LED, but the EVITEK G6 H4 is not available for shipment directly to a Canadian address. And the border ain't close in my case...

So with all the numerous conversations about H4 bulbs and tabs and LED light dispersion... I have found this to be available for shipment to me. It looks like it might work, if I can manage the tabs of course. Comments before I go ahead and order?

 

[Northernkm]

Northernkm:
Let us know how it works out for you.

Thank you, I will. Respect for all the work you've done to blaze the path.

I believe this is the one I got from Amazon.com who delivered to me in Ontario.

Thank you for the input - I amend my comment - the amazon link indicates shipment not available to my location in Qc. Maybe it's a GST/PST/HST thing. In any case, I will go with the path of least resistance and order from amazon.ca.

 

[beeker]

Thank you for the input - I amend my comment - the amazon link indicates shipment not available to my location in Qc. Maybe it's a GST/PST/HST thing. In any case, I will go with the path of least resistance and order from amazon.ca.

Just when I thought it couldn't get any worse!
\

 

[The Dan]

I will go with the path of least resistance and order from amazon.ca.

send a e-mail to cindy@evitekhid.com and order them direct. I used the subject line "G6 H4 led headlight from Cindy" I have ordered 3 sets direct from her.

 

[st11ray]

Has anyone done a step by step article on this install?