New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

[st11ray]

Thanks. I went back and read the sticky. It's much easier when you depress the tabs! Got my new Evitek's in and wow! There is one major problem though. Now I'm going to have to replace my Hella FF50's, they look like a dim yellow candle next to the G6's.

 

[cwenten]

I put together a long drawn out description but did not click the correct button so all narrative was lost. In a nutshell, I got my lights...They are awesome and in my haste to get the second one installed, I clipped the TOP tab. I did use some JB weld and reattached it but decided to try using the Honda OEM 45/45 mounting plate. I was able to separate the bulb from the plate and after some grinding and nuance, was able to fit the plastic sleeve from the Evitek mounting plate into the Honda OEM bulb plate. The only thing I need to explore is I had to slide the plastic sleeve in from the front rather than attach it from the back as it is done on the Evitek plate. This will cause the bulb to be inserted about 1/8 inch deeper in the headlight assembly so I will need to evaluate the potential of changed light pattern due to the bulb being inserted further and any problems with additional heat in the headlight assembly becasue it is in further. Time will tell. If problems to present, I still have the Evitek base plate so I can still use that.

Ride Safe.

 

[spiderman302]

I think on the ST1300 you could cut all the tabs off and still mount the light. You just have to make sure that the shields are on the bottom. The tabs are to make sure that the correct side is up. The bulb is held in place by the remaining lip of the base plate. It will not fall through.

 

[cwenten]

I (tried) installing the LED headlight with my great idea for a base plate but because the plastic sleeve was deeper into the housing, I could not get the LED bulb locked in place because it had to be inserted further than the retaining clip and the ribber cover would allow. I replaced the plastic sleeve in the original plate and installed it. Light works great but are the bulbs supposed to canted/turned to the approximately 6:30 - 7 o'clock position when looking at them from the front, with the reflectors on the bottom of the bulb? When I was checking the high/low beam difference, the right side high/low didn't seem to be any different. I'll have to look through this post as I recall some discussion of the reflector position. Any assistance in pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.

Ride Safe.

 

[spiderman302]

the "6:30 - 7:00" twist is only true in cars. All motorcycles remove the twist and the bulb should be vertical with the led emitters pointing horizontally. Your beam pattern should be level.

if the bulb is not where it is suppose to be then the high/low beam will not work correctly.
the high beam emitter is slightly lower than the low beam emitter so the high beam will project above the low beam.
the high beam is at the focus point and the low beam is just forward of the focus point.
the shields "reflectors" should be on the bottom.

 

[cwenten]

Thank you for the info. After rereading all posts I was able to twist it a little more and they are now vertical and WOW they look great. Initially, I had been apprehensive about twisting them further than I thought the stops would allow but it worked like a champ. I have replaced the turn signals with dual color LED and clear lens and replaced the position lights with the equivalent LED bulb. Although the bike really looks great, my goal is increased viability during the day and night.

Ride Safe.

 

[ST Gui]

Although the bike really looks great, my goal is increased viability during the day and night.

Yeah yeah increased visibility and conspicuity are all great and all but coordinated LED lighting really does look great! A pic or short vid would be the cherry on top!

I recently put an EMS strobe in place of the reflector (not a Whelen or Federal) on the back fender and connected to my brake light— four quick (not rapid) pulses and a pause and repeat. It's a little bright so I'm off the brakes on level ground. My ST riding buddy says "hit your brakes and look in the mirror!" I see the reflection of the strobe of the car's grille behind me— about 2.5 car lengths behind me. I think he wants one now.

 

[cwenten]

Funny you should mention the rear LED strobe running/brake light. I installed a hyper light strobe LED combo red/amber running/brake light and turn signal. I was concerned that the OEM running/brake lights weren't visible enough during the day or in poor weather. I was riding in some really hard rain with really poor visibilty and when I saw a car coming up behind me, I'd just touch my brakes for about a second or two and they would back off. I left the light in constant strobe as opposed to strobe for 5 seconds then steady brake light as I can release the brakes on a flat surface. Similar to you, I can see the strobe LED in the grill of the car behind me.

I've attached a picture of one 50/65 halogen next to the Evitek LED....Stunning difference.

Ride Safe.

 

[SmashVol]

I think on the ST1300 you could cut all the tabs off and still mount the light. You just have to make sure that the shields are on the bottom. The tabs are to make sure that the correct side is up. The bulb is held in place by the remaining lip of the base plate. It will not fall through.

What about for a fjr1300? I believe I spoke to you at the BRG about these and was wondering what if anything needed to be done for these to fit my bike. Appreciate it and nice meeting you.

 

[RaYzerman]

They slide right in to an FJR..... direct fit. You'll need a flashlight.

 

[Tdinova]

What about for a fjr1300? I believe I spoke to you at the BRG about these and was wondering what if anything needed to be done for these to fit my bike. Appreciate it and nice meeting you.

Sent from my SGH-M919V using Tapatalk

 

[hoowasat]

Put one in a buddy's Kawasaki 1500 Nomad. Did not need to cut tabs nor make any rotational adjustments. He's loving it.

 

[SmashVol]

Thanks a bunch and will put a set of these on mine next!

 

[DeanR]

Regarding the fan cooling of these lights. Just wondering, with all the LED lighting on newer cars, are they also fan equipped?

Also, is it as easy to switch to LED headlights on cars as it is to do on our bikes?

 

[ST Gui]

I'd think that car manufacturers would lean toward passive heatsinks instead of fans. Cheaper in the long run and one less bit to fail.

Converting cars to LED is probably a By Guess and By Golly kind of thing but shouldn't be particularly hard. Evitek for example makes some LEDs for common car headlights. Still getting an LED bulb that places emitters exactly in the same position as the halogen filament in an enclosure it wasn't designed for just may not happen. You might have to rely on the Close Enough for Guvmint Work doctrine.

 

[Northernkm]

I just installed NightEye H4, heatsink, no fan. I'm happy with them so far. Good light pattern, bright and white.Only required a slight modification to the dust cover.

 

[st11ray]

Got my Eviteks installed. They seem to be very bright. The only problem I have with them is hat my right side high beam seems to be aiming high. Both bulbs are fantastic on low beam. Any ideas as to my high beam problem?

 

[cwenten]

Check to make sure the reflectors are facing directly up. When I "locked" mine into the sleeve they were both turned to about a 1:30 - 2:00 position when looking at the lights from the front. It's pretty easy to twist the bulbs to ensure the reflectors face up. Earlier posts describes how to do it very well. It worked for me.

Ride Safe.

 

[spiderman302]

ST11ray

I am not sure why your right side would be different than the left if both low beams are good. check the mounting and make sure that the mounting plates are flush and that the bulb is level and square. I did get one bulb that was not centered in its mounting (leaning tower of Pisa). post pictures of the beam pattern on a wall so I can see how far it is off.

Now there are more lights available and I am testing these. So far I am happy with them and they give you other choices.

I am running one H4 in my ST1300 and a pair of 9006 in my suburban. Very sharp cut off pattern and tight beam.

https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Headlight-Conversion-Bulbs-TrueBeam/dp/B01EY6KXK2?th=1

and I am trying one of these in my DRZ400. It has a fuzzy cut off pattern and a broad beam (the big COB problem) but it is 22 watts lo and 37 watts hi beam. great for off road or canyon carving.

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Headlight-Conversion-Lifetime-Replacement/dp/B01EWJA3N8/ref=pd_sbs_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EWJA3N8&pd_rd_r=NJA1PWFEK3MFRKARB9BG&pd_rd_w=9HhsF&pd_rd_wg=D591C&refRID=NJA1PWFEK3MFRKARB9BG&th=1

Nice to have choices.

 

[RaYzerman]

Question on those DEDC's..... do they come apart like the G6 to make it easy to install (i.e., fan separates). I'm looking for a sharper cutoff than the G6 has, although it is acceptable... thanks.