certainly makes for a richer learning experience
I don't have a mechanical background. My first car in 1987 a 73 Volkswagen Super Beetle was either fixed by me or it wasn't fixed at all.certainly makes for a richer learning experience
WRONG! The vacuum side of the Air Suction Valves (aka PAIRs) is a sealed, closed system. That 'line'/hose splits and leads to both ASVs' vacuum chambers with a diaphragm on one side. These diaphragms in the valves are drawn up in their sealed chambers only during periods of high intake manifold vacuum provided by #2 and #4 intake manifold vacuum ports. This occurs during engine deceleration after quick throttle roll off and engine braking like downhill running..... If I'm understanding this rightly you're sucking on the line that goes to the pair system, when you should be blowing...this,in order to mimmic air flow....
N.B. Read my tip in this picture's caption/text: http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=833#top_display_mediaI have the flatbar mounted on the bellhousing beads attached and am hydrating before I drill the crossmember for mounting the servo cable.
Tip noted. Did the arm you installed on the bellhousing hit the tank until you bent it slightly away?N.B. Read my tip in this picture's caption/text: http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=833#top_display_media
Short answer: no. There should be no interference in the CC's operation with this install method.... Did the arm you installed on the bellhousing hit the tank until you bent it slightly away?
Hmm, mine did. The bump on the front of the tank, '91 black model. My arm went straight down 1.25" from the bellhousing. Now, there wasn't a problem til after I'd replaced the tank and worked the throttle, then it scraped along the front of the tank at half throttle. At this point, to correct it with a different connection, I would have had to pull the tank OR put a 10° bend away from the tank. If the test ride doesn't prove successful, I will pull the tank and attach the beads differently.Short answer: no. There should be no interference in the CC's operation with this install method.
No, it was in fact the pull lever I installed on the throttle bellcrank that I was referring to:.... I remember you referring to putting in a bend somewhere, it was probably the bracket for the servo cable to better align a straight pull to the bellhousing.
Without having to remove the lever...I also put a couple of bends in the attached lever so I could remove the throttle cable swagged end from its recess, if necessary (not yet, ha).
No, IMO. The canister in normal operation has constant vacuum applied to it and when vacuum from the intake manifold(s) drops off, the one-way check valve snaps shut to retain the vacuum for the servo to use. However, a long hose to the vacuum reservoir does have a small risk of crimping/pinching, leaking, and/or collapsing. I know of one STrider who used a sealed tin container of some kind (coffee or cookies..?) for his vacuum reservoir only to soon find it crushed by the vacuum generated.do you think it matters my vac canister is in the right front pocket ...?
I saw the picture of that vac container, it still worked as I remember. It also seemed smaller than the volume of my vac container. I think my system vac isn't able to produce meaningful vacuum for use or storage.I know of one STrider who used a sealed tin container of some kind (coffee or cookies..?) for his vacuum reservoir only to soon find it crushed by the vacuum generated.
John
Correction - Jim Neagle, STOC #8083, used the info and pictures of Paul Wilhelm, aka NikonHonda, STOC #8598, to repair his:My friend Jim Neagle documented his repair to return his servo to function...
The 1.25" figure is the distance measured from the center of the bellcrank to the hole/attachment point for the AudioVox pull cable (the ball cage piece). The arm should be mounted on an angle as mentioned in the text/caption for the install picture (http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=813#top_display_media) and shown in the next (http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=814#top_display_media), NOT straight down. At about the 7:30 o'clock position.My arm went straight down 1.25" from the bellhousing.
No resistance binding or friction in the throttle control, it's beautiful. No effort to roll the throttle on, it feels as though nothing is attached to the throttle. Full on to closed throttle is consistently smooth.- resistance, binding, or friction somewhere in the ST's throttle control system (handlebar grip housing, cables' tension or return spring or sleeve, carbs' linkage). How much effort does it take to roll the throttle on? When released does it return smoothly/easily to the idle stop?
- vacuum leak. Unplug the hose from the check valve and apply vacuum to this hose (that leads, is connected, to the servo and reservoir) with a MityVac, or other tool with a gage. Wait and watch the gage. If it bleeds off you've got a vacuum leak. Until you do this you can't claim you don't have a leak.
- defective servo. There are a few cases that I know of where the servo vacuum solenoid started to bind, but only on old, hard used ones. My friend Jim Neagle documented his repair to return his servo to function (I'll look for it if asked). But I doubt that's your problem.
Something's missing...
John
The range is good. When my throttle is at zero, the servo cable is completely extended and there are 1 or 2 balls of slack as to not put any burden on the servo cable, keeping the throttle from returning to zero. It has been cutting out about mid throttle, well before any cable tension would develop in the servo.The 1.25" figure is the distance measured from the center of the bellcrank to the hole/attachment point for the AudioVox pull cable (the ball cage piece). The arm should be mounted on an angle as mentioned in the text/caption for the install picture (http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=813#top_display_media) and shown in the next (http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=814#top_display_media), NOT straight down. At about the 7:30 o'clock position.
Just to be clear. The CC has to have that range of movement to operate correctly, IMHO.
John
Not to beat a dead horse here but... you've reduced the range by half. On mine, that first 30° of rotation are just getting the throttle to the middle of its range. On yours you may be just reaching it and can't rotate any further. Did you follow my install tip... where was the end of your lever with the throttle set wide open?The range is good.
I did look at the repair post and like the idea of the attention the solenoids might need. I don't know how long the Audiovox sat in it's box before I came into it. I should have time after next Sunday to get into the servo.Not to beat a dead horse here but... you've reduced the range by half. On mine, that first 30° of rotation are just getting the throttle to the middle of its range. On yours you may be just reaching it and can't rotate any further. Did you follow my install tip... where was the end of your lever with the throttle set wide open?
This may not even be your big problem but it's an important part of the mechanical install.
Have a look at the repair thread I posted. Maybe you should look at a sticking solenoid in the servo...
John
Just noticed this. My arm is at the same angle as your with 0 throttle. I probably meant that's the position it was making contact with the tank.The 1.25" figure is the distance measured from the center of the bellcrank to the hole/attachment point for the AudioVox pull cable (the ball cage piece). The arm should be mounted on an angle as mentioned in the text/caption for the install picture (http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=813#top_display_media) and shown in the next (http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=814#top_display_media), NOT straight down. At about the 7:30 o'clock position.
Just to be clear. The CC has to have that range of movement to operate correctly, IMHO.
John