Mine too. I use HawksHead.
Max Min tire pressure settings in TPMS App
- Thread starter AV8R
- Start date
Yes, I was looking at HawksHead when I started to look at dash units.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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Guilty as charged.
Still, this 90’degree valve stem is too high and it hit something.
Still, this 90’degree valve stem is too high and it hit something.
from that picture it looks to me like the FOBO unit could interfere with the caliper, is that what hit it?
I was thinking it looked like the FOBO added to the length of the arm and something tweaked it enough to spin it on its axis.dwalby said:
Easy enough to check. Line it up and with the front end off the ground rotate the wheel. Otherwise just leave the stem rotated enough out of the way. The new FOBO T-valves are small and the sensor wouldn't project out as much I'd reckon. The Slo-Boy/Ariete (sp?) valves would help too.
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Post-mortum and resolution...
The FOBO bike sensor just barely didnt make the clearance. I should have in hindsight, did this beforehand. My pain, your gain.
Adding locking nut
Sensor to locking nut wrench
Easy solution and resolution: rotate the stem 45-90* from facing out
Happy ending
Still I wonder, is there enough mass here to either rotate the valve stem or even affect wheel balance. The weights on the wheel arent that much different me thinks.
The FOBO bike sensor just barely didnt make the clearance. I should have in hindsight, did this beforehand. My pain, your gain.
Adding locking nut
Sensor to locking nut wrench
Easy solution and resolution: rotate the stem 45-90* from facing out
Happy ending
Still I wonder, is there enough mass here to either rotate the valve stem or even affect wheel balance. The weights on the wheel arent that much different me thinks.
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The manual give the weight of the sensor along with a warning about checking clearances. 
I think the sensor is around 10grams or .35oz. IIRC wheel weights can be had at .25oz so re-balancing might be worth a look.
I'd check the orientation before and after each ride for awhile but it'll probably be OK until the next tire change when you can install a better choice of stem. Besides better clearance a T-valve is more convenient as well.
I think the sensor is around 10grams or .35oz. IIRC wheel weights can be had at .25oz so re-balancing might be worth a look.I'd check the orientation before and after each ride for awhile but it'll probably be OK until the next tire change when you can install a better choice of stem. Besides better clearance a T-valve is more convenient as well.
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Next tire change
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Still running strong and the rotate the stem trick is working well, it’s not moving back outward. Locknuts help too.
Only issue thus far, is I haven’t seen the app overlay work over the Google Maps app. Should see an icon on the app I’m using and a pop up if a warning messages occurs. Maybe I didn’t set it up or Google doesn’t support it.
Took this measurement soon after riding home a few miles at night. Rear tire is hotter. Hmmmm
Dragging brake maybe?
Only issue thus far, is I haven’t seen the app overlay work over the Google Maps app. Should see an icon on the app I’m using and a pop up if a warning messages occurs. Maybe I didn’t set it up or Google doesn’t support it.
Took this measurement soon after riding home a few miles at night. Rear tire is hotter. Hmmmm
Dragging brake maybe?
Overlay works okay on my phone, on top of Google Maps. You do have the overlay option box checked, yes? (Noticing that your screen shots are from the bike-specific settings and not the General settings accessed from the app's main screen):
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@ibike2havefun
Probably not correctly done, but Ill check again. Thank you very much for the detailed response, Im anal/focused like that and appreciate it in return. If not too much trouble, can you show me pictorially how your sensors & stems are configured, please? Next tire change, I plan on getting the T-stems so I dont have to remove the sensor to add air.
I see your rear tire is 10* hotter too. This normal?
Probably not correctly done, but Ill check again. Thank you very much for the detailed response, Im anal/focused like that and appreciate it in return. If not too much trouble, can you show me pictorially how your sensors & stems are configured, please? Next tire change, I plan on getting the T-stems so I dont have to remove the sensor to add air.
I see your rear tire is 10* hotter too. This normal?
Hi-
Happy to help. (I've already edited my post above to show you where to access the General settings; you were too quick on the draw.
)Would be happy to show you photos of the sensors and stems, except that the bike went to winter storage yesterday and is 3 miles away.
But I can give you a description:I have the Ariete knock-off angled stems, oriented parallel to the axle / transverse to the rim for easiest access with my El Cheapo air compressor chuck.
As for tire temps: yes the back always warms to a higher temperature than the front. I've hypothesized (without any proof) that it is the result of that tire being the driving tire so it's generally "working harder" than the front, which is more-or-less just along for the ride except of course under braking and cornering situations. As I say, though, I have no science or engineering data to back this up- it's just a supposition. But the rear tire is always warmer than the front, once I've started riding. Overnight they cool to about the same (maybe a degree or two difference, which to me is probably reflective of the minimum level of precision the units can support).
Really I want to know whether the tires are or are not holding air over the course of a ride (I had one develop a slow leak and found the remains of a deck screw in it; thanks to the TPMS I was aware of the situation before it became a problem) and it's a fast/easy way to check the cold pressure before I set out.
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rear tire is hotter for two reasons,
1. its applying all the torque, the front is just along for the ride, and
2. the front has a constant supply of cooling air flowing over it, whereas the rear is in a wind shadow behind the rest of the bike.
1. its applying all the torque, the front is just along for the ride, and
2. the front has a constant supply of cooling air flowing over it, whereas the rear is in a wind shadow behind the rest of the bike.
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The tire pressure as measured yesterday, which is some 20*F ambient degrees lower than the other older postings in this thread
Note that the tire pressures read some 4 psi lower when the bike is cold (not run in a few days). There does seem to be the start of some uneven tire wear, so I guess that this is due to the 10% less pressure on colder periods of time.
This is news to me, but I guess I have to keep the 42 psi “cold pressure” regardless of the ambient temperature difference. Which means in the colder season, I need to add air to get the 42 psi to compensate for Boyles Law.
Note that the tire pressures read some 4 psi lower when the bike is cold (not run in a few days). There does seem to be the start of some uneven tire wear, so I guess that this is due to the 10% less pressure on colder periods of time.
This is news to me, but I guess I have to keep the 42 psi “cold pressure” regardless of the ambient temperature difference. Which means in the colder season, I need to add air to get the 42 psi to compensate for Boyles Law.
your previous post was a month ago, tires lose pressure over time regardless of ambient temperature, when was the last time you topped them off?
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been awhile, and I get what your sayin Dwalby, but I guess the point Im making is that barring leakage - that due to the pressure lost to lowering of the ambient temperature, I still have to maintain the 42 psi to protect the tires.
No harm in keeping them as close to 42 as possible, but I'd be very surprised if 3psi difference between 39 and 42 is going to affect the way your tires wear, so I wouldn't worry about "protecting the tires".
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Im seeing the start of some uneven tire wear which started only after this 10% reduction in tire pressure for about 1000 miles. So Im not convinced yet that 38 psi is a safe place to be.