Article [13] ST1300 - Rostra Cruise Control Installation

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I wouldn't want a bike without it! I had the vacuum version on my 2000 ST1100. The Rostra electronic kit works fine if you can install it. Takes a lot of patience and time, some creativity and ingenuity. Also takes a bit of adjustment to get it working smoothly. I would do it again.
 
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I ordered the cruise control...with control pad. Was it difficult to install? Or should I leave it to my Honda dealership?

Tony
 
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I ordered the cruise control...with control pad. Was it difficult to install? Or should I leave it to my Honda dealership?
If you can do basic mechanical work and competent wiring, you can do it with our help.

I would expect a dealer to decline for liability reasons, but I'd rather do it myself anyway.
 
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Thanks for the info...I am good at stuff like that and will look at vids online first and go slow. I am doing the USA 4 corners ride next year so I want to be ready.
 
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Thanks for the info...I am good at stuff like that and will look at vids online first and go slow. I am doing the USA 4 corners ride next year so I want to be ready.
I'm in VA if you happen to pass this way.

The main installation steps are finding a good place to mount the servo, connecting the throttle cable to the throttle, and connecting the wiring. The last part is my specialty. I've been installing car stereo and CC since the days of 8-tracks.

I have bought, but haven't yet installed the Rostra on my 1100, but I did put one on my Nighthawk 750.
 
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I'm in VA if you happen to pass this way.

The main installation steps are finding a good place to mount the servo, connecting the throttle cable to the throttle, and connecting the wiring. The last part is my specialty. I've been installing car stereo and CC since the days of 8-tracks.

I have bought, but haven't yet installed the Rostra on my 1100, but I did put one on my Nighthawk 750.
Thanks Larry...I will keep you posted when I do my 4 corners ride...I will be coming right through Richmond.
 
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I am writing this for others that may look at this and be intimidated by the wiring instructions. I really appreciate all that have contributed to this thread as each post has helped me get to the point where I finally bit the bullet and did the deed. I will add some of my insights and pictures that may help others.

I had previously installed the vacuum type of cruise control so I was not worried about the mechanical aspect. The wiring was my worry.

First there are wires on both the cruise control unit (CC) and the Goldwing switch (GWS) that are not used. These I wrapped carefully with electrical tape, some I cut shorter for convenience. The Centrodyne divider had all wires connected. In the next few paragraphs I will try to list each wire from each unit and where it attaches.
I will use the following abbreviations for colors.

Black- Bl
Blue- Bu
Brown- Br
White- W
Red- R
Yellow- Y
Gray- Gy
Green- G
Violet- V
Sky Blue- SBu
Light Green- LtG
Orange- O
Light Blue- LtBu
Pink- P

CC (cruise control unit)
Gy- to W on Centrodyne divider
Bu- to Bu on the left coil or Bu/Y on the right coil
Br- to a 12v switched + from the Quartet harness (Q) or other (+) source
Bl- to ground in Q harness or other (-) source
V- to brake switch cold, G/Y from 9 pin connector from right handlebar switch
R/Br- to Bl/G from GW switch
G- to W/Y from GW switch
Y- to W/Bu from GW switch
O- not used
LtG- not used
J Auxiliary speed connector- not used
K 4 pin switch cut off and not used with GW switch
L 2 pin connector- not used


GW switch ( Goldwing switch- #35130-MCA-A21 with back light)
W- to Y/Bl in 9 pin connector
Bl/W- to Bl in 9 pin connector
G/Y- to G/Y in 9 pin connector, this is the brake cold wire
W/G- to Y/G in 9 pin
Br/R- to Bl/R in 9 pin
Y/R- to Y/R in 9 pin
Bu/W- to Bu/W in 9 pin
Bl/G- to CC- R/Br
W/Y to CC- G
W/Bu- CC- Y
Bl/Y- to (+) from Q (switched)
LtBu/Bl- to (+) from Q (switched)
G-to gound (-) from Q
Y/W- not used, available for another circuit on the reverse on/off switch
Bl/R- not used, available for another circuit on the reverse on/off switch
Br- not used, available for another circuit on the reverse on/off switch
Bl/Br- not used, available for another circuit on the reverse on/off switch
G/W – not used

Other end near GW switch
W/G- attached to brake switch
G/Y- attached to brake switch
Bl/Y- not used, capped off
G/W- not used, capped off

Centrodyne Unit
W- to Gy from CC
G- to P/G found at the 27 pin connector on left of bike under gas tank area
R- to (+) in Q harness
Bl- to (-) in Q harness


I will attach a copy of my wiring diagram.

All (+) sources should be switched, in other words no on when the key is off and each should have an in line fuse. I used the Quartet harness for most of mine.
My Centrodyne divider is set at divide by 2 and high gain and I did not clip off the #8 capacitor, the newer units may not need these settings.
My throttle grip needed to be cut off by about ? inch as the GW switch is wider.
Hi everyone, I have been planning this project for a while now. Unfortunately, the switch i was able to source has a green connection not blue and the housing dosen't have anything printed on it. Does anyone have wiring explanation like 4jranch did for this type of switch, some of the wires do not seem to correspond correctly?
16213938166078006730610551389460.jpg1621393901867359919359570993730.jpg
 
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Shelton, WA
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Moto Guzzi V7 850 Sp
I'm trying to get some of the prep work done for my Rostra installation this winter and need some advice. The GW switch I've got is the 35130-MCA-A21 and I've deconstructed the blue connector. I'm ready to cut off the old connectors and crimp on the new ones and was wondering if anyone, having done the install, has shortened up the rather long cable that comes with the GW switch, and if so, how much did you cut off?
 

Sadlsor

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That's on my list, complete with the requisite GoldWing pod.
Meaning, I have not done this yet.
However, it would seem that you want enough cable to allow lock-to-lock handlebar movement, but not much more than that.
I've read this entire thread shortly after joining, so I will have much to revisit.
Which specific cable are you referring to in the GW switch?
I foresee following the path of the existing cables coming from the right grip, just bundling them together as best you can.
 
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