1999 Honda Pan ST1100 won't start off the starter button

Dave Barrett

Dave Barrett

Joined
Feb 26, 2023
Messages
6
Age
77
Location
United kingdom
Please help. I am struggling to get my bike started. It has been running fine until last week it does not start up after a run. I have checked the battery, replaced starter relay and checked fuses. Ignition light working normally. When you pressed the starter button it does not click the relay. All lights are working ok and battery ok. Managed to turn the engine over with the starter motor but it won't fire up. Nothing coming out of the exhaust as if the fuel cuts off.
Any advice or help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
 
Welcome Dave.

You say that you don't get a click when you press the starter, it doesn't click the relay, but you managed to turn the engine with the starter.

I on,y ever hear the starter relay / solenoid click when there is not enough battery power to turn the motor. Normally, the motor masks it.

Apart from that, are you able to verify that the fuel pump is working when you turn on the ignition?
 
how are your troubleshooting skills with an electrical schematic?

I've attached a wiring diagram for the non-ABS model, if yours is ABS2, then there might be some differences, but probably nothing that would apply to the issue you're having.

Since you have a new starter relay, let's assume that its good. There are two ways the starter relay energizer circuit could go bad, either no voltage on the yellow/red wire, or no return to ground on the green path.

The yellow/red wire comes right off the starter switch, so put a meter on that wire at the starter relay, press the starter button, and observe if you get 12v or not. If that checks out, on to the ground path. If it doesn't, then there are a couple other things in the path to check. When you turn the ignition switch on, it energizes the bank angle sensor relay and then the kill switch is also in the path, so make sure you have the kill switch in the "run" position.

The ground path has two possible ways to travel. If the bike is in neutral, then it follows the path through the clutch diode and down through the neutral switch. If that doesn't work, make sure the sidestand is up and the clutch is pulled in and try again. That takes the other possible path with the clutch switch and sidestand switch, see the schematic for details. If it doesn't start in neutral, but does with the second method, then your neutral switch or the wiring to it is bad. Or, given that you're in the UK, maybe the switch itself is badly corroded and no longer making a good ground.

I've attached a complete wiring diagram schematic, plus a starter system specific schematic along with a picture that shows where the various components are located on the bike. Good luck and report back with your findings.

one page color 96-97 std wiring 3.jpgCapture.JPG
 
jfheath said:
Welcome Dave.

You say that you don't get a click when you press the starter, it doesn't click the relay, but you managed to turn the engine with the starter.

I on,y ever hear the starter relay / solenoid click when there is not enough battery power to turn the motor. Normally, the motor masks it.

Apart from that, are you able to verify that the fuel pump is working when you turn on the ignition?
Click to expand...

Hi,
The fuel pump is not working when the ignition is on, also ABS warning lights on the left hand side of the dash not working, everything else on the dash is working (fuel gauge, indicators and lights etc) I have checked the fuel pump with another power supply and the pump does work as does the starter motor. I have also checked the continuity of the red wire from battery to ignition switch which is also good. Thank you for your input.
Dave
 
I'm not an 1100 expert (I'm not a 1300 expert either, but here I am writing about things I know little of...)

Kill switch. Give it a flick, then try again. If ABS isn't lighting up on the '99, that takes it's power from fuse A. If you've already flicked the kill switch 3 times, check that fuse. Also check ABS fuse 1. Those two take power from the ignition.

You've checked the red wire, go on, give the kill switch another flick before you check the fuses. You know you want to. Red wire goes to ignition, which goes to the fuses I just mentioned.

Lastly, if it worked recently and suddenly stopped, anything unusual happen in the meantime?

PS. Welcome.
 
Simply, you can't conclude the switch is bad until you confirm that power is reaching it and not leaving it.

Replacing parts is a terrible troubleshooting method. And use an automotive test light, not a voltmeter.

You can also use it to test for proper grounds by clipping the wire to the positive battery terminal.

1677626479023.png
 
Al st1100 said:
my 97 turned over with the kill switch on.
Click to expand...
Mine doesn't, I checked it in the garage a few minutes ago. The schematic I posted earlier clearly shows the kill switch in the path, so I don't know how that would have been possible.
 
In this thread:
Red Wire trouble
Check John’s picture on post #14
How does that area look for you. Sometimes a couple of strands will still let some power through.
How are the ground wires. 2 major ones near the starter and up near the handle to get the bike on the centre stand.

ps my ‘97 will not turn over with the kill switch on.
 
dwalby said:
how are your troubleshooting skills with an electrical schematic?

I've attached a wiring diagram for the non-ABS model, if yours is ABS2, then there might be some differences, but probably nothing that would apply to the issue you're having.

Since you have a new starter relay, let's assume that its good. There are two ways the starter relay energizer circuit could go bad, either no voltage on the yellow/red wire, or no return to ground on the green path.

The yellow/red wire comes right off the starter switch, so put a meter on that wire at the starter relay, press the starter button, and observe if you get 12v or not. If that checks out, on to the ground path. If it doesn't, then there are a couple other things in the path to check. When you turn the ignition switch on, it energizes the bank angle sensor relay and then the kill switch is also in the path, so make sure you have the kill switch in the "run" position.

The ground path has two possible ways to travel. If the bike is in neutral, then it follows the path through the clutch diode and down through the neutral switch. If that doesn't work, make sure the sidestand is up and the clutch is pulled in and try again. That takes the other possible path with the clutch switch and sidestand switch, see the schematic for details. If it doesn't start in neutral, but does with the second method, then your neutral switch or the wiring to it is bad. Or, given that you're in the UK, maybe the switch itself is badly corroded and no longer making a good ground.

I've attached a complete wiring diagram schematic, plus a starter system specific schematic along with a picture that shows where the various components are located on the bike. Good luck and report back with your findings.

one page color 96-97 std wiring 3.jpgCapture.JPG
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay in replying, I eventually got the bike started!! It was a combination of clutch switch and bad starter fuse connection in the center of the fuse box. I found the diagrams and information you sent me very helpful, so thank you, as I didn't have it in my Haynes workshop manual. I have fitted all new fuses and have currently got a new clutch switch on order as it is still 'playing up' at times but will start if I hold the clutch lever in. Will up date progress later. Now I can get the bike an MOT. Thanks again Dave.
 
Dave Barrett said:
Sorry for the delay in replying, I eventually got the bike started!! It was a combination of clutch switch and bad starter fuse connection in the center of the fuse box. I found the diagrams and information you sent me very helpful, so thank you, as I didn't have it in my Haynes workshop manual. I have fitted all new fuses and have currently got a new clutch switch on order as it is still 'playing up' at times but will start if I hold the clutch lever in. Will up date progress later. Now I can get the bike an MOT. Thanks again Dave.
Click to expand...
If its in neutral it should crank over with out the clutch pulled in which implies the clutch is working. I do recall someone mentioning something about a clutch diode having something to do with not cranking in neutral.
 
Hello, it's me again!! Fitted a new clutch switch but still got the same fault, will only start with the clutch pulled in. Does anyone know where the clutch diode is on the bike? David Silver Parts cannot identify the diode from the diagram I sent him. Any help on this matter would be much appreciated. Dave
 
I have replaced the clutch diode over the weekend with one off another bike and still have the same problem. The only way the bike will start is with holding the clutch lever in and releasing it the bike still runs. Sometimes the neutral light will light up but when I go to start it will go out again, so there is an intermittent fault somewhere. I have rechecked all the fuses but still have not rectified the fault. Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks, Dave.
 
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