Aftermarket Regulator (28 amp)

Your bike is over charging. This is usually caused by a voltage drop between the red and black wires. The red wire is the output from the rectifier but the charging voltage is sensed at the black wire. The problem is usually caused by corroded contacts in the ignition switch but can be from corroded connections anywhere in the system.


This problem is easily solved. Get yourself a relay and instead of using the wire that feeds to the black wire for sensing purposes for just that, use that wire to trigger a relay that will turn on a much shorter (fused) wire direct from the battery. That way you eliminate all wire length and corrosion based voltage drops in the current stock wiring. That wire circuit goes from the battery, through the 30 amp fuse at the starter relay, up to the ignition switch, back to the fuse box through another fuse and only then to the black wire on the VRR. That's a lot of length, to say nothing of all the connections that can oxidize and corrode. Use that circuit instead to simply trigger a relay and get a more direct and fresh feed straight from the battery through the relay.

Wire as follows:

From positive terminal to fuse (5 amp is fine - it's only sensing voltage). From fuse to relay. From relay to black wire on VRR.

Use the wire from your stock wiring that used to go to the black wire on the VRR to trigger the relay.

If that doesn't take care of the problem, something else is going on.
 
I've been looking at options in this regard also. One point which may be worthy of consideration is that a replacement alternator need not be of 40 amps output. As was mentioned in a previous post, the only requirements are that the alternator be able to seal engine oil, connect to the drive, and fit in the area.

Another option may be to modify the original mounting flange to exclude oil and accept the new alternator front housing, replace the bearing with a sealed one and use the original rotor shaft to carry the new alternator's rotor assembly.

I will be working more on this when we return from Mexico. Please keep us posted as to your progress.

Question: Why did you select the Wing alternator as a possible donor? I haven't had the opportunity to examine one.

Norm
 
Back in the old days, an ST'er looked into the 40 amp alt for modifying. He found a 60 amp. amature (or what ever you call the shaft part), from a fork lift, that fit in place of the 40 amp shaft. The problem was what to do about the VRR. It was dropped for lack of interest from the group. When a 28 amp upgrade was done, people found a 40 amp'er to buy. I'll look to see if I can find any of the info. George, John O, Jeff, anyone remember any of this?
 
Back in the old days, an ST'er looked into the 40 amp alt for modifying. He found a 60 amp. amature (or what ever you call the shaft part), from a fork lift, that fit in place of the 40 amp shaft. The problem was what to do about the VRR. It was dropped for lack of interest from the group. When a 28 amp upgrade was done, people found a 40 amp'er to buy. I'll look to see if I can find any of the info. George, John O, Jeff, anyone remember any of this?

Hi Ron,

IIRC, it was Tony Pepenella, STOC 522; and it had to do with tooling/startup cost and manf of a whole new alternator shaft base plate (or was it the front casing of the 55amp fork lift alternator?). And it wasn't a done deal by any means... he and his machinist(?) friend didn't have it all worked out, the solution/prototype, etc.

I'd be interested to hear how much these salvage GL15 alts actually cost. A salvage ST11 OEM 40amper should be no more than ~$170...

HEY! Some of you other old-timer/ST1100 savy folks... does the authority/police version ST1100 have its own, higher amp alternator?

Regards, John
 
The police ST11 has the same 40 amp alternator as the civilian version (the 28 amp version had a better voltage regulator). The wiring has the police variations (voltmeter, switches, wiring loom changes), and one grade oil higher in the forks. I was surprised myself at how stock the police version is. I was hoping for heavy grade suspension and bits, but no luck. I own a 96 P version.
 
If the GL alternator can be made to fit it would a second source of used parts. I'm concerned that it is physically too large to fit between the frame rails. Even if it would work, pulling the engine out to make the change kind'a negates the deal. Of course, both mine already have 40 ampers so I'm not a candidate.

IIRC, the idea for the fork lift unit was dropped after the 40amper came on line.

Another option would be to buy a completely new alternator with a 1300 wrapped around it. Kinda like the old joke about jacking up the radiator cap and driving a new car under it. :D
 
OK, here's what I have so far, sorry, no pics. "Where's that dang digital camera...."

I have dismantled the 2 alternators. The GL 1500 alt does have an internal regulator. The front of the shaft is splined. It also has a "seal plate" (or whatever you want to call it) that keeps engine oil out of the alternator.

I believe that it is a little longer than the 40amp upgrade unit, but really can't tell without dimensions.

The "seal plate" of the GL alt is about 2-3mm smaller diameter than the ST's. It looks like the original ST mounting plate could be machined out to accommodate the seal plate of the GL unit, thus giving a way to keep oil in the engine.

It has yet to be determined if the GL alt can use the ST's upgrade plate/shaft as a potential way to mount. I may go ahead and order these two parts, just to see if it could work.

Biggest difference between the GL alt and the ST 40 amp alt appears to be "clocking" of the mount holes (and overall length) It may just be too tight, I don't know.

I have also be looking at other alternators (automotive) and found this one: http://www.ecae.com/alt1.html
Check out the "Ultra Mini 2025" (would use the 2026 if possible) I may call these folks for some more information.

DOES ANYONE HAVE THE LENGTH DIMENSION, SAY FROM THE MOUNTING SURFACE TO THE REAR OF THE 40 AMP UPGRADE ALT??
 
I've wondered if the alternator from the 1300 could be adapted. It doesn't seem to be any longer and just might fit. Of course, some custom designed and machined parts might be necessary.
 
I've wondered if the alternator from the 1300 could be adapted. It doesn't seem to be any longer and just might fit. Of course, some custom designed and machined parts might be necessary.

Looking at the service manual for my 1300, I've wondered the same thing. The mounting ears and forward housing with the oil sealing o-ring all look very similar to the 1100's 40A unit. I'm not sure if the drive is the same splined engagement used by the ST1100 or the blade/star-like engagement used by the GL series though. I'd sure like to have an ST13 and 40A ST11 alternator side by side and study them.

If the one from the 13 will fit, that would be an easy 65A upgrade for the ST1100.
 
Here are some pix of each. I think it could be done even if it requires some custom fabbed components.

First and second shots are the 1100's 40 amper.

The third and fourth are the 1300 alternator.
 

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(snip)
DOES ANYONE HAVE THE LENGTH DIMENSION, SAY FROM THE MOUNTING SURFACE TO THE REAR OF THE 40 AMP UPGRADE ALT??

Hi Pat. I recently got one of the ST1100 40ampers (we're doing Mick Turley's upgrade here at my house in Jun during his travels from MT). Looks to me like the distance from the bolt bosses on the engine case to the back of the 40amper is ~5?"*.

The other key dimension is the distance between the upper and lower frame crossmembers that the alt (OEM 40amper OR any other alt) has to fit through. This appears to be ~4?"*

[edit: see Don's posts below...]

HTH

Regards, John
 
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I currently have my bike open for the 40A Alternator upgrade. Perhaps some pics will help to see how much room there is. These pics show how tight the side clearance is with the 40A installed. The clearance is only 0.055in.
 

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Here's some more pic's. Also, the distance from the upper to lower crossbar is 132 mm or 5.2in. They are not directly above each other so they are actually closer vertically. The alternator needs to be angled down to fit between the crossmembers. Let me know if you want any specific measurement, I'll wait to close it up till Tuesday night or wednesday.:)
 

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Oh, by the way I measure 5.25 in. from the bolt mounting point on the engine to the back of the 40A at the 12 o'clock positon. The real length limitation is at the 7 to 8 o'clock position as the rear cover actually needs to be trimmed there.

Martin B., I'm gathering up my 8ga. wire and connectors for the other upgrade you mentioned in the other post.
 
Isn't 16 V a little high? Thinking of the battery here.

I still have 2 28amp units and (I think) one good VR/R if anyone is in need for the short term.

But, if ya gotta replace the alternator anyway I strongly suggest doing the upgrade. ~$450 ain't gonna kill ya and it could avoid a failed ride.

That being said, I managed to salvage a failed ride with lots of help from members of this board, _and_ introduced a small shop in Clarksville, AR to the ST. Never having seen one before, they were able to enjoy _4_ at one time on their small lot about 4 years ago.

Thanks again for the loan of the VR/R, Robert. :D
 
One thing I haven't tried yet is providing a better ground for the alternator. A separate wire from the housing to the battery.

On the 1300 alternator into a 1100 swap, I figured that even if the housing wouldn't mate up to he 1100, it might be possible to machine a custom one. Or install some of the 1300 internals into the 1100 housing. Or some such combination. But only by having the two alternators side by side for measurement and analysis could this be determined. Maybe someday.
 
I just installed the Oregon Motorcycle Parts regulator/rectifier and it raised my 1200 rpm voltage from 13.66 volts to 14.56 volts. At 2200 rpm I'm getting 15.14 volts. The battery usually stays around 12.48 volts, its now in the 12.80's after a breif run on the center stand. The 15.14 volts seems high to me... Stock was 14.96 at 2200 rpm.
 
I just installed the Oregon Motorcycle Parts regulator/rectifier and it raised my 1200 rpm voltage from 13.66 volts to 14.56 volts. At 2200 rpm I'm getting 15.14 volts. The battery usually stays around 12.48 volts, its now in the 12.80's after a breif run on the center stand. The 15.14 volts seems high to me... Stock was 14.96 at 2200 rpm.

I've been thinking about doing the Regulator upgrade kinda scared to. Wish i had the $$$ to foot the 40amp upgrade. But on ebay they have one of these reg upgrades for $99.50 Linky http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...011QQitemZ320227047688QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 
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