Aftermarket Regulator (28 amp)

[sirepair]

Don,
Thanks for the pics and measurements, that helps! I'm thinkin the GL alt will fit, just gotta check the output shaft w/the replacement and make the adapter.

This project will get more attention when the MC shop is up and running.

Thanks again!!

 

[wjbertrand]

Here are some pix of each. I think it could be done even if it requires some custom fabbed components.

First and second shots are the 1100's 40 amper.

The third and fourth are the 1300 alternator.

The mounting boss locations look different. Even if you mentally rotate each alternator so that the two bosses that are closest together are at the top, the third boss appears to be skewed oppositely between them. Also, and it may be an optical illusion, the 1300's alternator looks longer. Even if the mounting bosses were correct I'm not sure there would be enough room on the 1100 to accept the additional length.

Oh well, seemed like a good idea.................

 

[Martin_b]

15.1 is probably just fine.

A battery charge of 12.48 indicates an undercharged battery. Perhaps that's why you're getting 15.1. With a full charge on the battery (12.6 to 12.8, perhaps that number will go down.

Remember, when checking battery voltage, you must do it after the battery has been off of any kind of charging for a minimum of 1 hour, preferably 2 hours. Otherwise, you are getting an artificial reading. I'd put your battery on a good charger like a Battery Tender, charge it overnight, and then after it sits an hour or two off the charger, then check the battery voltage. If it's below 12.6, I think your battery may be on it's way to the graveyard. Once you get a full charge on your battery, I'd be interested to know what the 2200 rpm charging voltage is.

 

[sagedrifter]

15.1 is probably just fine.

A battery charge of 12.48 indicates an undercharged battery. Perhaps that's why you're getting 15.1. With a full charge on the battery (12.6 to 12.8, perhaps that number will go down.

Remember, when checking battery voltage, you must do it after the battery has been off of any kind of charging for a minimum of 1 hour, preferably 2 hours. Otherwise, you are getting an artificial reading. I'd put your battery on a good charger like a Battery Tender, charge it overnight, and then after it sits an hour or two off the charger, then check the battery voltage. If it's below 12.6, I think your battery may be on it's way to the graveyard. Once you get a full charge on your battery, I'd be interested to know what the 2200 rpm charging voltage is.

After a couple hours the battery shows 12.61 volts, I'll put it on the charger and see what happens. It has been sitting for a full week. I just did the VRR, front brakes, oil change, fuse block, changed the dot 4 in the brakes and clutch, new spark plugs too. It has been sitting with the tupperware off.

But, your right. The battery is not fully charged, its around 90% though. Its a brand new battery, i've put about 1,000 miles on it. I'll try my battery tender and see where it tops off at. I was hoping everything would run fine after a week of nights working on the thing. I still need to do the final drive and fork oil. illeak1:

 

[Martin_b]

12.6 or above is considered a healthy battery. Unless it's real new, you're likely not going to get it up to 12.8. Also, a lot depends upon how it was originally prepared. The ideal way is to add the acid yourself. Wait the proper amount of time before putting it on the charger (usually a couple hours), properly charge it with a proper charger, and only then use it. That will usually get you 12.8 and the ability to get back to 12.8. Putting the acid in and not charging it before using it will damage the battery somewhat as will not doing all the other ideal things. But is sounds like you're doin' just fine.

Can you report back after you've spent some time riding around and let us know how the new VRR is working?

 

[sagedrifter]

12.6 or above is considered a healthy battery. Unless it's real new, you're likely not going to get it up to 12.8. Also, a lot depends upon how it was originally prepared. The ideal way is to add the acid yourself. Wait the proper amount of time before putting it on the charger (usually a couple hours), properly charge it with a proper charger, and only then use it. That will usually get you 12.8 and the ability to get back to 12.8. Putting the acid in and not charging it before using it will damage the battery somewhat as will not doing all the other ideal things. But is sounds like you're doin' just fine.

Can you report back after you've spent some time riding around and let us know how the new VRR is working?

Yep, I did bring the battery to life properly. I followed the directions to the letter when filling it and gave it a good 10 hours on the battery tender. Then I had to take a quick trip and put around 600 miles on the bike in one day. The tender was in storage mode when I took it off. When I got back and put it back on the tender, it went to storage mode. I'm pretty good to my batteries and I change them out every three years. I'm hoping the new VRR will settle down, I don't want to be overcharging the battery. I'm not sure if 15.14 to 15.22 volts is hurting anything? I'll find out soon if the battery charge helps lower the output. Its back off the charger now and I'm letting it rest, its at 12.94 volts right now, I'm going to give it an hour and check again.

 

[sagedrifter]

:hyp1: Ok, the latest info on the $100 Oregon VRR. I charged the battery, let it set 1 1/2 hour. Voltage came out to 12.84. Cranked up the bike, at 2,000 rpm I got 15.22 volts. At idle I got 15.12 or so with it bouncing.

After the bike warmed up fully, the voltage at 1500 to 2200 plus rpm stayed at 15.04. When the cooling fans kicked on, the voltage rose to 15.22, fans kick off and it settles back to 15.04 after bouncing from 14.90 to 15.15 for short period.

At a 1200 rpm idle I get 14.70 to 15.02 volts and it finally calmed down and stayed at 14.99 volts. Fans kick on and it drops to the low 14's. Rev it back up to 1500 rpm and it holds 15.04 steady.

So with the bike hot and with the fans cycling, I'm getting a steady 15.04 above 1200 rpm and 14.99 at idle till the fans cycle. With the high beams (I've got the 65 watt bulbs) and the fans I saw it drop to 13.76 and it pulled the motor down a bit. It recovers and stays around 14.36 till the fans kick off. At 1500 rpm the lights flicker when the fans come on but, the engine stays steady and the voltage stays in the high 14 to 15.04 range.

So, I think its safe to run and see how it does with more than 10 mins of running. I couldn't take the Co2 from the exhaust anymore, it raining here in NC tonight. Had to work in a small garage in my Toy Hauler. :hyp1:

 

[sagedrifter]

This problem is easily solved. Get yourself a relay and instead of using the wire that feeds to the black wire for sensing purposes for just that, use that wire to trigger a relay that will turn on a much shorter (fused) wire direct from the battery. That way you eliminate all wire length and corrosion based voltage drops in the current stock wiring. That wire circuit goes from the battery, through the 30 amp fuse at the starter relay, up to the ignition switch, back to the fuse box through another fuse and only then to the black wire on the VRR. That's a lot of length, to say nothing of all the connections that can oxidize and corrode. Use that circuit instead to simply trigger a relay and get a more direct and fresh feed straight from the battery through the relay.

Wire as follows:

From positive terminal to fuse (5 amp is fine - it's only sensing voltage). From fuse to relay. From relay to black wire on VRR.

Use the wire from your stock wiring that used to go to the black wire on the VRR to trigger the relay.

If that doesn't take care of the problem, something else is going on.

I added the relay, my new VRR is producing 14.22 volts now, battery is staying charged at 12.71 after 300 miles of riding. The 14.22 is steady from 1200 rpm on up. Lights are brighter, turn signals don't make the head light flicker, all is fine so far.

 

[Martin_b]

Cool! Glad it seems to be working for you.

 

[rulbe]

Adam

Here are a few photos I took from your 40 amp alternator upgrade. Glad everything is working well and you are ready to ride!

Enjoy!
Randy

 

[juddspaintballs]

Those pictures are pretty tiny. Got any larger pictures? BTW, congrats Adam! Doesn't it feel good to have all that power coursing through your wires?

 

[BigTom]

Judd

Haven't you done yours? You ought to recognize those pictures, tiny or not I know I do!

 

[93NJST]

Thanks Randy,
I road the bike in this morning and had no problems with it. Yes it does feel great to have a working system. I'll keep her now for at least another 10 years!!!!!

HAY, I just noticed. Any pic of my bike on this forum is those of it in pieces...


Need to change that, time to ride!!!!!!
Adam

 

[rulbe]

Try this again selected the small size to fit.

Adam all the photos with your bike in pieces is just a reminder to ride more since the bike was not 100%

:biker:

Enjoy!
Randy

 

[juddspaintballs]

I certainly recognize those pictures, but I still like looking :

 

[BigTom]

Nice pics, looks almost exactly like mine at that stage. Except for one thing.


You know what pi$$#$ me off? Adam's bike is cleaner sitting there on that lift than mine has ever been. I was really lucky last month, I'd ridden some gravel roads, then we got really rained on at Hannigan Meadows, so I didn't have to put a hose to mine when I got home

 

[juddspaintballs]

Looks like he had time to make muffins too

 

[rulbe]

That is a great thing about cooking them in a pan when done you can use the pan for bolts! Besides it makes the night go quicker.

 

[93NJST]

The bike being clean is all an illusion...........

Also sitting in the garage for 4 months gives you time to wipe her down. Now it's time to get some road grunge on her!

 

[Bush]

Resurrecting this thread to see if Sagedrifter has anything further to report, good or bad, about the aftermarket VRR he installed two years ago??