2007 ST1300 - FI red light Code 26 Right Knock Sensor

2000daytona

2000daytona

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All,

Had my 2007 FI light come (12,000 Miles) on at different mileages. Not on all the time and Code 26-Right t Knock Sensor. I pulled off the fairings etc and looked at the wiring to the sensor and did not see any heat issues after doing my research. After a couple rides I reluctantly decided to take it to the dealer three weeks ago and when riding to the dealer it came on early in the ride. When the light comes on you can notice a change in the engine (slight hesitation or trouble spot). The "dreaded dealer" changed the right knock sensor and then call and told me that it was not the problem. They said they checked all the wiring, etc. and no shorts. Next option is the dreaded ECU. Told them to go ahead and they installed it and told me it is working up to specs. I picked it up on Saturday. $1,200 and change later.......no problems yet..................mechanic told me that 9 out of 10 times it is the ECU. Let's see. Anybody have any experience with this issue? I researched but saw only a few issues mostly with heat issues and left and ride sensor mix up on earlier models. The 2007 has a spiral metal clip that keeps the wires away from the engine.

You would think that Soichiro and his guys would have fixed this issue as an ECU is about $800 a pop.

Best to all.
 
Redfish

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Over in the ST1300 Tech section I have a thread going about this very issue. FI Code 26. From my research it appears that sometimes the heat kills the plug and wiring on the right sensor. Sometimes the ECU is faulty. I cannot help but wonder if one contributes to the other. For your information, the Knock Sensor fault occurs when the engine remains above 3900 RPM for more than 10 seconds. It apparently retards the timing to prevent knock or predetonation. It will cause a loss of power and horrible fuel mileage.
 
Blrfl

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2000daytona said:
The "dreaded dealer" changed the right knock sensor and then call and told me that it was not the problem. They said they checked all the wiring, etc. and no shorts.
Click to expand...
If all they checked for was shorts, they didn't do the entire job. A break won't show any shorts, either.

Let me ask you something about what you're seeing: Does the change in the engine's behavior continue after the light turns on, or does it just happen briefly and then the engine goes back to something resembling normal?

$1,200 and change later.......no problems yet ... mechanic told me that 9 out of 10 times it is the ECU.
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So if that's the case, why'd he soak you for for a knock sensor and not go straight for the ECM? I'm not sure what he could have been doing under there for $1,200 worth of parts and labor, because there really isn't that much to this problem: one ECM, two sensors, wiring and connectors at both ends. Maybe he's got a boat payment coming due. Tell your dealer to put his money where his mouth is and replace the ECM, charging you nothing if that doesn't resolve it.

The 2007 has a spiral metal clip that keeps the wires away from the engine.
Click to expand...
They all have that. There's also a small round heat shield around the area where the sensor bolts into the case.

You would think that Soichiro and his guys would have fixed this issue as an ECU is about $800 a pop.
Click to expand...
Until you confirm that it's the ECM, it isn't an $800 problem. ECMs don't have a high failure rate on this bike, and based on what I recall about this problem, you have a much better chance of it being with the wiring than what's on either end.

--Mark
 
stgolfer

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Mark - You know this bike as well as anyone out there, and certainly much better than I do, but almost all of the error code 26's I've seen turn out to be the ECM.
 
Blrfl

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stgolfer said:
Mark - You know this bike as well as anyone out there, and certainly much better than I do, but almost all of the error code 26's I've seen turn out to be the ECM.
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There was a handful of them early on that were wiring related, and those stick in my head. I'm not keeping close score, so you may well be right.

--Mark
 
stgolfer

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Consider yourself lucky, though. There was a guy near me, (not on the forum), who had the same problem. They replaced the sensor, then the front wiring harness, then the rear wiring harness, then the ECM, giving the bike back to him each time. With labor to take the body apart several times, they soaked him for over $4,000.
 
Redfish

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ALL of the first code 26 issues I found were related to heat damaged wire and plug at the sensor end. I had the Tupperware on and off and made myself feel like a complete idiot before I stopped following the Honda Service Manual and started acting like an Instrument Tech. The troubleshooting method I used was not in the Service Manual. Up until I had already made up my mind it had to be the ECU and I had to be the first one... And for what it's worth, Honda did make a change to the ECU. From'08 forward it is completely different. I cannot imagine there have been enough ECU failures to warrant a change.
 
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2000daytona

2000daytona

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All,

Thanks for your response and input and I apologize fro my tardy response. I rode a couple hundred miles this weekend, just came back from Key Largo, and guess what, no FI code 26 light issues. I guess the "dreaded dealer" was right about the deficient ECM. If the light came on they said to bring it back so I have an option.

Mark......just to address your questions...........yes, the engine just stutters for a moment then returns to normal when the light came on..........and yes, i did not get soaked with the cost new knock sensor..............in fact I got hosed which I think is worse.

Thanks again for your input. Best.......2000daytona!
 
Blrfl

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2000daytona said:
... the engine just stutters for a moment then returns to normal when the light came on.
Click to expand...
That's probably normal for the circumstances. With the knock sensors working, the ECM has lots of leeway to change the fueling and ignition timing to get the best burn without knocking. Without them, it will fall back to settings that were programmed at the factory for what should be average conditions. That switch may bring about an abrupt change in fueling, which could cause a stutter.

One other thing that might help: The knock sensor wiring is part of a subharness that connects to the main wiring harness. If the connector where they meet hasn't been cleaned, that's another point in the system that could cause the ECM to detect a fault.

--Mark
 

vinnyst1300

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Hi guys,
I have Fi code 25 on my 2003 ST. That is the left sensor. I unplugged the sensor on the RH just to make sure I am looking at the correct side and ran the bike, code 26 showed up. So it is the left side.
I unplugged both left and right sensors and the ECM and tested for continuity between two ends of the wire both on left and right sides and meter showed 0.00 which means the wires are not broken.
I replaced the left sensor with a brand new one.
Code 25 still showed up.
Now I am wondering if it is the ECM.
If the ECM is bad would it change the code to 26 when I unplugged the right hand side? seems like the ECM is giving out the correct codes for the respective sides.
Anyone has any idea what else I have to check to determine if the ECM is bad or another way to test the wires?
 
970mike

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vinnyst1300 said:
Hi guys,
I have Fi code 25 on my 2003 ST. That is the left sensor. I unplugged the sensor on the RH just to make sure I am looking at the correct side and ran the bike, code 26 showed up. So it is the left side.
I unplugged both left and right sensors and the ECM and tested for continuity between two ends of the wire both on left and right sides and meter showed 0.00 which means the wires are not broken.
I replaced the left sensor with a brand new one.
Code 25 still showed up.
Now I am wondering if it is the ECM.
If the ECM is bad would it change the code to 26 when I unplugged the right hand side? seems like the ECM is giving out the correct codes for the respective sides.
Anyone has any idea what else I have to check to determine if the ECM is bad or another way to test the wires?
Click to expand...
Did you follow the manual to reset the computer after replacing the sensor? I would give that a try.
 
David Ammons

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I get two fast flashes which seems to indicate a vacume line or a map sensor. I saw notes about a 5 way tee where is that?
 
skipcurt

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David Ammons said:
I get two fast flashes which seems to indicate a vacume line or a map sensor. I saw notes about a 5 way tee where is that?
Click to expand...
The vacuum lines and 5 way tee are under the gas tank cover (right where you put the gas in). Under the tank cover is a large, black plastic lid/cover that houses the air filter. Once you remove that you’ll see the tee and vacuum lines. It’s not difficult at all to get to. You can be in there in 10 minutes or less. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Skip
 
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