’06 ST1300P Police Model - Details - right hand switch box

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I recently bought a retired CHP 1300 (California Highway Police). It is my first ST and my first decommissioned police bike. I’d love the idea of having a tidy “factory” switch to control some accessories with one thumb, on the fly.

I’m trying to gather as much info as to which switch did what to which downstream connector, before I start to take things apart. I’l mention that I am moderately color blind and in turn somewhat “tone deft” to DC automotive electric. I understand relays, amps, polarity and fuses, etc.

Does anyone know what the numbered switches in the photos did, originally, and if there was a standard decommissioning process that was used?

I’ve been searching the forum and have found some references of folks using it for cruise controllers. That is not on my list of goals. But I do a lot of my backroad riding in the predawn hours so I utilize three layers of extra lights. Standard, more and blinding. So that would account for Off, 1, 2, and 3.
That leaves #4 & #5. My heated gear would likely run from #5 (on / off). I’m not sure how switch #4 was operated or for what. And the switch next to #4 & above #5.
Actually, its kind of fun getting a bike that I know nearly nothing about ;)
Any help to find this info or even a copy of the “Police Owners Manual” so to speak … would be a big help. Thanks
 

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Willsmotorcycle

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Congratulations, this may be a good place to start;

 

Hound

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As far as I remember, 1 was front blues; 2 added the siren; 3 (which is a momentary switch) changed the siren to a yelp. 4 and 5 were rear blues and headlamp flasher.

This was on an 1100. In the UK, 1300s didn't use the multiple switch but had a separate controller on the left handlebar.

mode1.jpg

Many, many years ago I created this diagram - might be useful in conjunction with the link Willsmotorcycle posted.

unnamed.jpg
 
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Thanks guys ! Both very helpful.
I've still got some time (and riding to do) before I put this bike up for some maintenance and do-dad mods. I'd love to know if there was a standard decommissioning prceedures as the moved to civilian life. Any CHP mechanics among us?
 
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From posts here, the decommissioning procedure was to cut all the wires at the most inconvenient point in the shortest time possible. One bike was even sold with all of the police hardware, including siren, flashing lights and, I think (if my memory has not pulled a fast one) a police radar. This was by an officer in Texas(?) who said it was a legal sale and he owned everything - bike, accessories, etc. I would expect that depending on who did the removal of PD equipment, the tech either cut the wires near the item or dug into the wiring harness and cut everything at once. Someone reported all the wires were cut near the handlebar although I would think it is easier to cut the siren wires at the siren, since that is what is coming off.

Regardless, any service manual for 1300's has what you need to know. Mine (manual said '03-2011) had a special section for police bikes. Changes were made in '08, so if you do get a manual like mine, check for the updates in the back, and look elsewhere on this site for corrections to the errors made in the HSM (honda service manual).

Meanwhile, read this....
 

Sadlsor

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I was going to mention the wiring, insofar as what I've seen reported here, but I guess the snipping of connections will vary from bike to bike and from reseller to reseller. Besides, I have no personal experience with owning a pre-owned police bike.
 

Uncle Phil

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It appears that the switch is the 'standard' police switch.
Just remember when 1 is on 1 is on, when 2 is on, 1 & 2 are on, when 3 (momentary) is one, 1,2 and 3 are on.
Usually the switch has two main wiring harness - one to main connector for starting, etc. and the other that you can wire as you please and use the switches as you like. There is a way to 'separate' the 1 & 2 into individual switches with the use of relays.
I do that for a high and low on my heated grips.
 
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It appears that the switch is the 'standard' police switch.
Just remember when 1 is on 1 is on, when 2 is on, 1 & 2 are on, when 3 (momentary) is one, 1,2 and 3 are on.
Usually the switch has two main wiring harness - one to main connector for starting, etc. and the other that you can wire as you please and use the switches as you like. There is a way to 'separate' the 1 & 2 into individual switches with the use of relays.
I do that for a high and low on my heated grips.
Thanks I'm seeing snips here and the mention of the "mast" on the rear of the bike. Is the one I've marked below that switch?
Can I guess that the middle position is off, the upper position is rotating, and the bottom position is just stationary on?
My 14th to the last question is where "geographically" are the harness connectors located? Under tank? / seat? / tail section?PD Light switch.png
 
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'THIS ONE' turns my headlight/parking lights off/on on my ST1100s as the switch comes 'originally' wired.
I would think that it would do the same on the ST1300 but I am not sure since I don't have a ST1300.
Thanks. Since I asked the question I've learned that A: my 1300 P switch was stuck from crud B: this switch has 3 positions, All off, parking lights only, parking lights and headlights on. I read an article about the Kawasaki PD vs the ST. The Honda could be running while on a stakeout without the lights tipping off its' location. A feature the police wanted.
 

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What's nice about that is if you are working on the bike and need to leave the key on, you can turn off the lights and the current draw is minimal.
It also works if you get stuck in traffic jam - you can leave the key on, motor off, and lights off - then just hit the start when it's time to go. :biggrin:
 

aniwack

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As far as I remember, 1 was front blues; 2 added the siren; 3 (which is a momentary switch) changed the siren to a yelp. 4 and 5 were rear blues and headlamp flasher.
HOUND IS INCORRECT.

Hi and thanks for calling the Blue Courtesy Phone. From the nature of your post, you have a very simple question. Well, let's get to it.

In the world of police motors, there's no such thing as a standard removal. A mechanic will haphazardly open up the body and start slaughtering connectors and lights. If connectors somehow survived, consider yourself blessed. My customers come in with slaughter victims and I'm tracing wires for about an hour to find the cuts.

Let's assume your connectors survived the slaughter. Let's start with the handlebar. Each switch position has it's own task:
1- Rear Warning Lights
2- 360* Warning Lights
3- Momentary Switch for horn
4- Wail/Yelp
5- Yelp/Phaser
So that's how agencies order their setup. Here's where as an upfitter I change up that combo. One and two always work together. If you put a horn on 3, it will not work unless one and two are on. Four and five can support accessories but the #5 is notorious for gumming up and wearing out the fastest [as the bottom switch].

Let's talk about the harness:

If your connectors survived this is the default Honda setup. On the front left and right side you'll find a white and yellow wire that runs thru the harness to the rear. Use that for routing your items.



I routinely rebuild the harness and even upfit non-PA's. Major thing about these switches, THEY ARE NOT DESIGNED TO TAKE THE LOAD OF YOUR ACCESSORIES!! They only provide the 12V to turn your items on and off. Always power your accessories from the batteries [PA have two]. Use your accessory battery for this and make sure you have a working relay between your starter and accessory batteries.

That last switch turns the headlight on and off.
*Facetime walkthru's available upon request
 
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ST1100Y

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That's how both my UK police ST1100s were wired.
Same on the police switch(es) I had gotten over here...
There is the OEM setup (also seen the p-spec workshop manual)... and then whatever the individual local squads/divisions like to have...
re-pinning the connector shells to anyone's liking is done under a minute...
 

Willsmotorcycle

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