My name is Justin 41yrs old, Iowa/Nebraska native.
I'm new to the forum, new ST owner (91), back to riding after 15 years out of the saddle.
I did some trading and ended up with a 91 ST1100, 6750 miles, but has had very little maintenance from the looks of it.
Pretty sure it had the original tires, left front fork seal blown, rear shock was way weak, among other things... The dreaded 28 amp alternator was leaking around where the connector goes through the housing.
So I started looking into the 40 amp upgrade. The kits are not easily sourced from what I could find on the web. They can be pieced together, but the adapter plate is nowhere to be found without scouring these forms for the off chance of someone having custom cnc'd a batch.
So, I decided to try and repair the one I had, it still worked, just leaky. I don't plan to do any winter riding so no plans for heated gear etc the 28amp will be powerful enough for my riding. Enough of a leak that I didn't just want to top off the bike every so often, I was worried about oil on the back tire, not my idea of a good time.
Removal of alternator was a pain. Tear the bike apart, then take some more stuff out of the way.
A tip that helped me get the alternator through the frame. After you have the gas tank and swing arm off remove the ground wire and starter wire from the left side of the bike, these are kind of tucked up behind the exhaust and under a heat shield. Then remove the rear brake hose from the frame cross member and bend the left tab up out of the way. I don't like to bend stuff and bend back, but it made such a difference in letting the alternator pass through the frame. The 60* tilt/turn helps the alternator pass through as well.
Drain the oil out of your bike first. You'll thank yourself later. I didn't and my garage floor looks like a junior version of the Exxon-valdes spill. Plus you need to drain the oil to do the lewis pin method.
All of this is mentioned in other posts I'm sure, here's where my repair differs a bit I think.
Once I got the alternator removed, I thought I should remove the stator windings so I could access where the connector passed through the housing. The windings would jiggle inside the housing but would not pop out. I would soon find out why... I threaded some bailing wire through the loops in the windings clamped the bailing wire in my vice and began to tap gently on the housing to free the stator windings. A few raps later and the windings are free of the housing. Then I noticed that the windings were soldered to the connector and I had just really broken some stuff.
After a very thorough cleaning of the housing and windings I attempted to pop the connector out of the housing. It was in there tight, after snapping one little corner of the connector I decided to go for plan b. As in plan jb...weld. I mixed up a fair amount of the gray goodness and carefully laid it inside the housing, making sure to cover the connector very well but not far enough to the tabs that the windings solder to, for fear of a short and an electrical/oil fire out on the road.
After the first batch of jb had set up enough not to run, I moved to the outside of the housing. Mixing up a batch and applying it liberally to the outside where the wires poke into the housing. I screwed the metal tab/protector into place while the jb was still quite runny. Let it set overnight, checked the next morning, it had set up fine and looked like it would hold.
After work I took the housing and wiring downstairs to see if I could fit/jam my soldering iron far enough into the gap to solder the 3 winding wires back to the tabs on the connector. There was just enough room to get the job done. 2 of the wires fit right in, and I looked like the 3rd was in place as well, but it was riding the top corner of the tab, not wanting to de solder and re solder I just laid a good amount of solder onto the 3rd wire and connector then called it good.
Getting the alternator back in was a real pain. I used thin stainless steel wire rope and a 1/4 cotter pin in place of the lewis pin. I would suggest getting the real deal. The method I used worked, but was a real pain to get the alternator gears to mesh with the drive gear well. I tried to use the 4 mounting bolts to line it up and walk it in. I was met with great resistance. I backed everything out and took the alternator out, looked in the crank case to see if there were any witnesses marks that I could tell where it was binding up. Nothing. I readjusted the cotter pin and gave it another go, this was probably the 6th time I had the alternator in and out of the frame, I was frustrated. This time I was able to wiggle the stinking thing in and I could tell it was feeling better than it had the other times I attempted. I again used the bolts to help keep it aligned and not back out so I wouldn't have to start over. It walked right in nicely. It took a very stout yank on the wire to dislodge the pin from the alternator gears, I ended up wrapping the wire around a prybar and giving a very swift strong yank with both hands. The wire and pin both popped right out and flew right out of the oil drain hole. A relief washed over me.
I buttoned up the alternator and began taking the fuel pump out of the gas tank for inspection of the tank and filter screen, etc. Everything looked pretty good, couple tiny little spots of surface rust, no crummy bummies, or weird gunk in the tank. I hit the pump and screen with some parts cleaner and using a new tank gasket buttoned it up. New fuel filter in place of one the previous owner had cobbled in line.
Hooked the electrical connections back together using dielectric grease. The bike fired right up from the gas left in the carbs. A little sputtering for a few moments for the fuel lines to prime etc, but she runs! The headlight is nice and bright as well, seems brighter, but that may be my mind playing with me. Will put a volt meter on the battery and see what it says.
I put a new progressive 465 rear shock on, I didn't like to spend that kind of $$ but it's probably worth it. I'm 320# and having adjustable preload is nice. I have the rear of the bike put back together, but got in a hurry and didn't put the new brake pads on. Should I do a new rotor? Or just run the new pads?
Front forks are off the bike I am going to use 10wt oil and cut a little longer spacer for the left fork to give a bit stiffer ride, due to my weight and wanting a bit of a "sportier" ride, less dive under braking etc. I will install new pads up front when this goes back together. Planning on brake fluid flush as well.
New Dunlop roadsmart tires installed. Local bike shop did it for $20 cash per tire. I thought that was pretty good. I had to take the old tires with me for that price though.
Well, that is about it for now. Looking forward to getting the old gal out on the road before the weather gets too cold.
I'm new to the forum, new ST owner (91), back to riding after 15 years out of the saddle.
I did some trading and ended up with a 91 ST1100, 6750 miles, but has had very little maintenance from the looks of it.
Pretty sure it had the original tires, left front fork seal blown, rear shock was way weak, among other things... The dreaded 28 amp alternator was leaking around where the connector goes through the housing.
So I started looking into the 40 amp upgrade. The kits are not easily sourced from what I could find on the web. They can be pieced together, but the adapter plate is nowhere to be found without scouring these forms for the off chance of someone having custom cnc'd a batch.
So, I decided to try and repair the one I had, it still worked, just leaky. I don't plan to do any winter riding so no plans for heated gear etc the 28amp will be powerful enough for my riding. Enough of a leak that I didn't just want to top off the bike every so often, I was worried about oil on the back tire, not my idea of a good time.
Removal of alternator was a pain. Tear the bike apart, then take some more stuff out of the way.
A tip that helped me get the alternator through the frame. After you have the gas tank and swing arm off remove the ground wire and starter wire from the left side of the bike, these are kind of tucked up behind the exhaust and under a heat shield. Then remove the rear brake hose from the frame cross member and bend the left tab up out of the way. I don't like to bend stuff and bend back, but it made such a difference in letting the alternator pass through the frame. The 60* tilt/turn helps the alternator pass through as well.
Drain the oil out of your bike first. You'll thank yourself later. I didn't and my garage floor looks like a junior version of the Exxon-valdes spill. Plus you need to drain the oil to do the lewis pin method.
All of this is mentioned in other posts I'm sure, here's where my repair differs a bit I think.
Once I got the alternator removed, I thought I should remove the stator windings so I could access where the connector passed through the housing. The windings would jiggle inside the housing but would not pop out. I would soon find out why... I threaded some bailing wire through the loops in the windings clamped the bailing wire in my vice and began to tap gently on the housing to free the stator windings. A few raps later and the windings are free of the housing. Then I noticed that the windings were soldered to the connector and I had just really broken some stuff.
After a very thorough cleaning of the housing and windings I attempted to pop the connector out of the housing. It was in there tight, after snapping one little corner of the connector I decided to go for plan b. As in plan jb...weld. I mixed up a fair amount of the gray goodness and carefully laid it inside the housing, making sure to cover the connector very well but not far enough to the tabs that the windings solder to, for fear of a short and an electrical/oil fire out on the road.
After the first batch of jb had set up enough not to run, I moved to the outside of the housing. Mixing up a batch and applying it liberally to the outside where the wires poke into the housing. I screwed the metal tab/protector into place while the jb was still quite runny. Let it set overnight, checked the next morning, it had set up fine and looked like it would hold.
After work I took the housing and wiring downstairs to see if I could fit/jam my soldering iron far enough into the gap to solder the 3 winding wires back to the tabs on the connector. There was just enough room to get the job done. 2 of the wires fit right in, and I looked like the 3rd was in place as well, but it was riding the top corner of the tab, not wanting to de solder and re solder I just laid a good amount of solder onto the 3rd wire and connector then called it good.
Getting the alternator back in was a real pain. I used thin stainless steel wire rope and a 1/4 cotter pin in place of the lewis pin. I would suggest getting the real deal. The method I used worked, but was a real pain to get the alternator gears to mesh with the drive gear well. I tried to use the 4 mounting bolts to line it up and walk it in. I was met with great resistance. I backed everything out and took the alternator out, looked in the crank case to see if there were any witnesses marks that I could tell where it was binding up. Nothing. I readjusted the cotter pin and gave it another go, this was probably the 6th time I had the alternator in and out of the frame, I was frustrated. This time I was able to wiggle the stinking thing in and I could tell it was feeling better than it had the other times I attempted. I again used the bolts to help keep it aligned and not back out so I wouldn't have to start over. It walked right in nicely. It took a very stout yank on the wire to dislodge the pin from the alternator gears, I ended up wrapping the wire around a prybar and giving a very swift strong yank with both hands. The wire and pin both popped right out and flew right out of the oil drain hole. A relief washed over me.
I buttoned up the alternator and began taking the fuel pump out of the gas tank for inspection of the tank and filter screen, etc. Everything looked pretty good, couple tiny little spots of surface rust, no crummy bummies, or weird gunk in the tank. I hit the pump and screen with some parts cleaner and using a new tank gasket buttoned it up. New fuel filter in place of one the previous owner had cobbled in line.
Hooked the electrical connections back together using dielectric grease. The bike fired right up from the gas left in the carbs. A little sputtering for a few moments for the fuel lines to prime etc, but she runs! The headlight is nice and bright as well, seems brighter, but that may be my mind playing with me. Will put a volt meter on the battery and see what it says.
I put a new progressive 465 rear shock on, I didn't like to spend that kind of $$ but it's probably worth it. I'm 320# and having adjustable preload is nice. I have the rear of the bike put back together, but got in a hurry and didn't put the new brake pads on. Should I do a new rotor? Or just run the new pads?
Front forks are off the bike I am going to use 10wt oil and cut a little longer spacer for the left fork to give a bit stiffer ride, due to my weight and wanting a bit of a "sportier" ride, less dive under braking etc. I will install new pads up front when this goes back together. Planning on brake fluid flush as well.
New Dunlop roadsmart tires installed. Local bike shop did it for $20 cash per tire. I thought that was pretty good. I had to take the old tires with me for that price though.
Well, that is about it for now. Looking forward to getting the old gal out on the road before the weather gets too cold.
