2011 ST1300PA - Convert from Police Style

[Sage]

Good morning, gents. I try to do as much forum searching before I ask something that may have already been stated/asked/requested. I have recently purchased a 2011 Honda ST1300PA former Fresno Police Motorcycle. I have a bit of work I need to perform on her before I consider her more road worthy. I am removing/painting the fairings. I am removing the aluminum Police engine guards. I have spark plugs and a K&N air filter coming in for a tune. I am going to send the gauge out to BlueGauges.com to have them change the lighting. I purchased a set of Delkevic 13" SS Tri-Oval mufflers to rid myself of the George Jetson OEM cat mufflers. I also need to flush/bleed the brake system and I want to change her oil and shaft gear fluid. ( I have appreciated a few people in this forum emailing me methods to work on the brake system )

One issue I have come across since riding her, is either the battery Is bad, or there seems to be a parasitic draw. I have ordered a new YTZ14S gel battery as a replacement. The bike still has the old Police right hand switch and all the wiring that goes with it for sirens, lights, etc. I am curious if all of this extra wiring is assisting in the draw (I have not performed a voltage test but I was made aware of voltage regulator issues with this model of Honda). It should be easy to just remove this switch and replace it with an OEM switch for this model, right? Also I need to install a new horn since the horn switch also seems to have been hooked up to a Police electronic that is no longer on the motorcycle. I bought the bike with 38k miles from a Police auction for $4k.

 

[SMSW]

The police switch can be very handy to have if you are adding auxiliary lights or other items for which you would want a switch. It is much nicer than adding switches all over the place. As far as I know, the switch is just that - on/off, and when in the latter position, there should be no parasitic load on the battery, since the switch is mechanical and gives you an air gap when off.

Bad batteries will not hold a charge, and might be your problem as you suggested. A load test (usually free at your local gas station) is the only way to tell for sure. You can put a multimeter in series with the pos lead at the battery to see if there is a load with the ignition and switches off. Typically most of these meters will measure a max of 10 amps or fewer and have an internal fuse to protect the meter.

You sound like you have things in hand, but this might help out...

Article - Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike | Articles

This article is the result of collaboration by Andrew Shadow, CYYJ, jfheath, Max Pete, SMSW, and SupraSabre. Igofar’s list was copied from the first link listed above. Click on the attached file. This one is V.11; in the future, any changes will be noted in the title on the first page as the...

www.st-owners.com

 

[Sadlsor]

Batteries Plus Bulbs (formerly known as Batteries Plus) will also do a battery check for free, and may include a load test.

 

[dduelin]

Between civilian and police models the right switch pods have different part numbers and the P model has three connections to the main wiring loom whereas the civilian bike has but one connector. Honda generally makes connectors like this color coded (red, white, blue, grey, etc) for the male & female pieces so would be easy if the one female connector on the civilian switch plugs into the appropriate colored male connector with the starting and kill switch circuits. When you remove the fairing parts on the right side the connectors will be obvious when you trace them down from the handlebar to headstock area. Even a ready plug-in connector correct color supposes the wiring is the same for the start button and kill switch circuits.

 

[Sage]

Between civilian and police models the right switch pods have different part numbers and the P model has three connections to the main wiring loom whereas the civilian bike has but one connector. Honda generally makes connectors like this color coded (red, white, blue, grey, etc) for the male & female pieces so would be easy if the one female connector on the civilian switch plugs into the appropriate colored male connector with the starting and kill switch circuits. When you remove the fairing parts on the right side the connectors will be obvious when you trace them down from the handlebar to headstock area. Even a ready plug-in connector correct color supposes the wiring is the same for the start button and kill switch circuits.

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Would you happen to know the part# for the civilian model so I can take a look at a wiring diagram and see if I can get away with just a single connector since the all of the other electronics have been removed? Roseville Honda Power Sports is relatively close to where I live. I was curious about taking the bike to them for the fluid change and getting advice on the electrical conversion....

 

[dduelin]

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Would you happen to know the part# for the civilian model so I can take a look at a wiring diagram and see if I can get away with just a single connector since the all of the other electronics have been removed? Roseville Honda Power Sports is relatively close to where I live. I was curious about taking the bike to them for the fluid change and getting advice on the electrical conversion....

P/N 35013-MCS-L02

2012 Honda ST1300A AC SWITCH / CABLE | CyclePartsNation

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[SMSW]

Roseville Honda Power Sports is relatively close to where I live. I was curious about taking the bike to them for the fluid change and getting advice on the electrical conversion....

I'm not going to bad mouth Roseville Honda because I don't know them at all, and have never been within miles of their dealership. However, the number of Honda dealerships in the entire country that have a good reputation for servicing ST's seems to be quite small. Consider some facts rather than simply taking what I say as gospel. Honda sold comparatively few ST's (1100's and 1300's combined) over the model run. These bikes are very reliable and few of them saw the inside of dealers' service bays when they were young. Toss in that the bikes have been discontinued for years and the turnover of service personnel and there is an excellent chance that the mechanics at your dealer have never seen more than one or two of these bikes in the last 5 years.

The horror stories of dealerships that have given ST owners poor service are all over this website. Full disclosure, my local dealership's lead mechanic (who the owner worships) rode my bike, made a seat of the pants diagnosis, and cost me $650 to fix nothing. I took it to an independent who went over the bike with a stethoscope to diagnose the problem. He found something wrong that could only have been done by this dealer's service dept. and fixed that, then went on to correct the original problem. My point is young mechanic had poor diagnostic skills and I paid the price.

Yes, bleeding the brakes is a simple if involved process assuming one follows the book. To do a thorough job, you MUST follow the proper procedure...all 7 steps. (I think it's 7, haven't done it in about 5 years (I sold my ST1300). Members have reported in other threads that dealerships have screwed up this basic task.

I suggest you ask around and find out how good Roseville Honda is from other customers. Talk to the owner and try to figure out if he cares about the bikes he services or if he simply passes them on to the Service Dept. and doesn't give a hoot. You might talk to them first about the electrical conversion - if they show knowledge about your ST and how it is wired, take that as a good sign, otherwise, run for the hills.

 

[Sage]

I'm not going to bad mouth Roseville Honda because I don't know them at all, and have never been within miles of their dealership. However, the number of Honda dealerships in the entire country that have a good reputation for servicing ST's seems to be quite small. Consider some facts rather than simply taking what I say as gospel. Honda sold comparatively few ST's (1100's and 1300's combined) over the model run. These bikes are very reliable and few of them saw the inside of dealers' service bays when they were young. Toss in that the bikes have been discontinued for years and the turnover of service personnel and there is an excellent chance that the mechanics at your dealer have never seen more than one or two of these bikes in the last 5 years.

The horror stories of dealerships that have given ST owners poor service are all over this website. Full disclosure, my local dealership's lead mechanic (who the owner worships) rode my bike, made a seat of the pants diagnosis, and cost me $650 to fix nothing. I took it to an independent who went over the bike with a stethoscope to diagnose the problem. He found something wrong that could only have been done by this dealer's service dept. and fixed that, then went on to correct the original problem. My point is young mechanic had poor diagnostic skills and I paid the price.

Yes, bleeding the brakes is a simple if involved process assuming one follows the book. To do a thorough job, you MUST follow the proper procedure...all 7 steps. (I think it's 7, haven't done it in about 5 years (I sold my ST1300). Members have reported in other threads that dealerships have screwed up this basic task.

I suggest you ask around and find out how good Roseville Honda is from other customers. Talk to the owner and try to figure out if he cares about the bikes he services or if he simply passes them on to the Service Dept. and doesn't give a hoot. You might talk to them first about the electrical conversion - if they show knowledge about your ST and how it is wired, take that as a good sign, otherwise, run for the hills.

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It's good advice. I had my own tech I trusted from the city we just moved from. I've never really used dealerships before, and I actually figured since there are still Police ST1300PA's being used in Cali, that they where probably dealer servicing them and might know how to maintain them. I prefer private mechanics tbh.

 

[SMSW]

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I actually figured since there are still Police ST1300PA's being used in Cali, that they where probably dealer servicing them and might know how to maintain them. I prefer private mechanics tbh.

Based on other posts here, mechanics who service P bikes are no better than the run of the mill mechanics in other dealerships. It all comes down to the rep of the individual dealer and what you think of the mechanic. Oh, and his track record with other ST owners.

 

[Hound]

ST1300PA wiring diagram here if you want it:

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drive.google.com

 

[aniwack]

Too bad he’s not near Tuscon… (lol Igofar HATES pa’s)

 

[Sage]

Too bad he’s not near Tuscon… (lol Igofar HATES pa’s)

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Is there a drastic difference between the PA and civilian model? From what I've seen it just seems to be electronic related and all of the extra (now defunct) switches

 

[Andrew Shadow]

From what I remember, the police version also has a sturdier sub-frame for the front fairing and it has a speed limiter built in to the ECM.

 

[Sage]

From what I remember, the police version also has a sturdier sub-frame for the front fairing and it has a speed limiter built in to the ECM.

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I think someone once mentioned the speed is governed to 120mph for the PA. Which is fine because I haven't even hit 100. Just using the bike as a Tourer for myself and my fiancé. I've had my kicks on a 2000 Hayabusa back in the day.

 

[dduelin]

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Is there a drastic difference between the PA and civilian model? From what I've seen it just seems to be electronic related and all of the extra (now defunct) switches

I think the differences are not in specification but are rooted in how fleet vehicles are used and maintained. Police units may see hard service and be treated with less care than a civilian model.

 

[Sage]

I think the differences are not in specification but are rooted in how fleet vehicles are used and maintained. Police units may see hard service and be treated with less care than a civilian model.

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Well I have removed all of the fairings, checked the wires, checked the frame, wheels, shaft, the guards, etc. Just a lot of road dirt so far. No signs of abuse or any hard scratches, etc. The bike shifts pretty smooth. I'd say my only gripes are the right hand switch, the orange gauge, the seat (which I am making an appointment at CORBIN in Hollister to replace), and perhaps the color. I've been checking DHGate for injected molded fairings as well as pricing out having the existing fairings and tank painted.

 

[Sage]

Ok so I ran into an issue. I am converting the seat to a Corbin touring seat (have to cut off the 4 Police seat brackets and install the factory hardware), but apparently the Police version disabled the seat adjusting lever on the left side. It literally does nothing. What do I need to fix this?

 

[Nexus]

Ok so I ran into an issue. I am converting the seat to a Corbin touring seat (have to cut off the 4 Police seat brackets and install the factory hardware), but apparently the Police version disabled the seat adjusting lever on the left side. It literally does nothing. What do I need to fix this?

Do you mean the seat release mechanism? If so, Corbin's web site has a document that shows you what you need to do. It also has a parts list and you can order the parts directly from honda (or Partzilla, etc...). About $55 incl. shipping and taxes.

 

[Nexus]

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Is there a drastic difference between the PA and civilian model? From what I've seen it just seems to be electronic related and all of the extra (now defunct) switches

One difference is that the engine guards on the Police version have surfaces to mount stuff like sirens, or additional crash guards. Handlebars also have risers to accommodate the taller/larger switch unit on the right handlebar. Speedo is also more accurate (that I've seen). I.e. When a gps says you are doing 65 on a civilian version the speedometer may indicate around 70. On a police version, it'll indicate 65.

 

[Sage]

Do you mean the seat release mechanism? If so, Corbin's web site has a document that shows you what you need to do. It also has a parts list and you can order the parts directly from honda (or Partzilla, etc...). About $55 incl. shipping and taxes.

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It's not the seat release buttons. It's a lever that adjusts the seat height / riding position. Video attached. The lever does not appear to be connected to anything.