3 Yellow Wires

[IpswichST]

Ok, I have had an Alt issue for over a year... my yellow wires get pretty hot and melt. My question now is simply about those 3 yellow wires. When I connect them to the VRR (on the posts that they are supposed to attach to) does it matter which yellow wire goes on which post?

The system is pretty simple... 3 yellow wires feed AC to the VRR which converts to DC and charges the battery. Maybe my yellow wires are heating up because the aftermarket VRR is not the right one? Specs are not right? (it was cross-referenced).

Which brings up one other question.... has anyone replaced their VRR with a bigger one? one that will handle more?

Thanks

 

[vinny]

Who Cross referenced it? If it was someone other that yourself, then double check it. What caused the original one to fail? Are you overloading the system somehow? Just asking some basic questions because I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

 

[Blrfl]

If youre not putting am insane amount of load on the system from downstream, the resistance at the alternator side of the VRR you installed is probably too low.

ETA: This goes on the assumption that everything else (wiring, connections, etc.) started out in good condition.

--Mark

 

[IpswichST]

The VRR was cross-referenced by my local NAPA. A good friend owns the NAPA and we even had to order it. Im pretty sure its good.

No, nothing is taxing my system at all. The only thing I have added is a very simple volt meter that draws next to nothing and an after market horn.

What I did last year to the 3 yellow wires is snip them from the plug because the plug was melted. I created a patch cord with connectors. I think Im going to clean up my work by soldering new wires directly to the 3 yellow wires so that there is no resistence there... then clean up all the plugs to the VRR.

Does anyone know where I can purchase a new plug? or should I just plug them manually?

Thanks

 

[IpswichST]

In any order, one yellow lead on one side of the old connector to any of the ones on the other side... the VRR doesn't care, each one simply carries AC current from one of the three stator windings to the VRR to be converted to DC on to the battery

I found this quote from another post... glad that it doesnt make a difference. NOW Ill clean up all my wires. The heat Im seeing I guess is most likely a bad connecton/corrosion. Ill start simple and see what happens.

 

[TourNut]

Many years ago my plug from the alternator to regulator on my GoldWing was going bad from corrosion and heat. I put on those simple connectors ( like you see attached to a battery for accessories ) on both sides , used nut & bolts, electrical taped and that has lasted much longer than that problematic OEM plug did. ( I think I caught it before it over-stressed my alternator, I looked into it after other people's trouble reports )

 

[ST1100Y]

When I connect them to the VRR (on the posts that they are supposed to attach to) does it matter which yellow wire goes on which post?

Whilst the 26A alt is a "3-phase" system, but I doubt that a "phase order" is required...

I also rather suspect an overload, or: one of the 3 stator windings is open, thus increased load/current on the remaining outputs...

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

That's my quote. It means to eliminate a source of resistance, you can simple cut the red 3P connector out and solder and sleeve the three yellow leads from the stator in any order. The VRR doesn't care; however, if you remove the white 6P and use individual female spade connectors to the VRR's spades, they have a specific order/location.

Do you have the Honda Service Manual, and have you done the static and dynamic alternator checks?

 

[IpswichST]

You are correct John, that is your quote! from I think 2010... I may be off on that date cuz I looked through a ton of VRR strings. But Great memory!

I know that when I connect the yellow wires to the VRR there are specific places for them. Because my wires were heating up I was searching to learn just that... does it matter which yellow goes to each place on the VRR and you are saying "no" and if you say "no" then that's good enough for me!

I do have the manual and I have done the tests in the past. I will do the tests one last time when I go in and clean up the wires once again.

BTW, what gauge wire are those yellow wires? and should I purchase any specific kind/type of wire?

Thanks

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I'm not sure of the yellow stator AC leads' wire gage, but 16 or 14 AWG should work fine for replacement, Howe. Were all three yellows getting hot? Right at the VRR only, or all along the run?

Do you have a picture of your non-OEM VRR? Is it in fact a NAPA part, part number? Would be the first I'd heard of.

John

 

[Ron]

I seem to remember something about the police version being a bit better with the heat sink being the biggest difference. I have a 40 amper so I'm a little un-connected to VRR.

 

[IpswichST]

First, no, not a NAPA product. The VRR looks identical to OEM.Ill get back to you on the wires and how far down the line they get hot.

 

[Bush]

How about a picture of this VRR - or the number NAPA used to order and price?

 

[IpswichST]

Im having troubles uploading the VRR pic. It doesnt say much... no numbers. A sticker that says

Regulator Rectifier
CDI Unit
Made in Japan

It is made by SUN

It looks identical to the OEM VRR

 

[IpswichST]

Here is a link

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1000-1100

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Here is a link

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1000-1100

Interesting. $135. How's that compare to the Honda OEM part price from say Service Honda?

John

 

[IpswichST]

I guess they list at $253. Did a quick search and saw $168 at partzilla. Ill ask my NAPA friend what he gets for them.

 

[IpswichST]

Here is the VRR my NAPA found for me. I went there and they could not duplicate the sale.. I guess they have a new supplier. I was excited to see that the new supplier had a VRR and in the book it was $99...BUT... it's availability was unavailable. The company they were going through said they had one they could get in 4 days for $167

As for my VRR and my hot yellow wires. I created 3 new yellow patch cords to go to my VRR. 14 gauge AWG wire with new ends all heat shrunk.
I had noticed from the Alt that the casing of 3 yellow wires was not in the best shape. Little cuts in the yellow casing. I was thinking "maybe some electricity was jumping from wire to wire due to those cuts?" I really couldnt cut back the wires much further so I wrapped them in electrical tape to prevent any shorting. I ran the bike for a while and the wires appear to be better. Ill take a short ride after work and check on them again.

 

[Bush]

As John says, this is interesting. How come no one has found this before now, since the product page says it has been around since 2009? Also curious that they show one for the '90 - '91 ST1100 that has a heat sink surface and is listed for $99.00, available since 2007? Why only '90 and '91, when the alternator was the same until '95?

My skeptical side wonders about the real source of these units, or if they could be a Chinese knock off, despite saying Made in Japan.

Please come back to this thread with updates on your experience with this VRR.

EDIT: Just googled Sun regulator/rectifier and it led back to the site posted by the OP, so no leads back to a company called Sun.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I'd have just soldered and shrink wrapped one end of your new leads to the old yellow leads from the stator; IOW, one continuous lead from the stator to the VRR. There's no need for an intermediate/in-line connector now. The next time you need to mess with this will probably be to remove it entirely and pitch it as it's not used during the 40amp upgrade.

I highly recommend running a voltmeter to monitor your charging system and get early warning of impending failure.

John