what is the easiest way to access the leaking coolant lines under the fuel tank on a st1300 ?
Last edited:
access coolant lines
- Thread starter roadrider
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2006
- Messages
- 9,705
- Location
- Jacksonville
- Bike
- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
- 2024 Miles
- 010688
- STOC #
- 6651
Remove the radiator and access the hoses and thermostat housing from the front.
Last edited:
ST1100 or 1300?
No easy way. fuel tank, air cleaner, throttle bodies. If you remove the tank, there is a hose you need to purchase called the "Joint hose" and also need to buy 2 new "Joint" hose clamps to replace the ones you take off.
I wish it were easy.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I had the common coolant leak due to loose hose clamps under the throttle bodies as well. The bike was new and therefore I had no maintenance planned under the throttle bodies. I lifted the fuel tank, removed the air box and went in using a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension and a socket on a u-joint. I was able to get at and tighten every clamp that I could see. I wasn't sure at the time if I had got to all of them or not but I never had any coolant leaks afterwards. As it is much faster and easier and a lot less work this way it is worth a shot if it stops the leak until later on when you are going in there for other maintenance anyway at which time you can give all the hoses a good look.
A question for you...What's leaking? You will rarely have to get to all of the OEM clamps; usually it's the big hoses off the radiator at the thermostat housing. These are readily accessible once you pull the radiator, and then the frame reinforcing bar (its horizontal) directly in front of the stat housing. Since the youngest ST's are now 7 years old, you might consider replacing the stat and o-ring while you are in there. Hoses seem to last a long time, though I plan to yank the t- bodies and replace all of them at the bike's 10th birthday, and use constant tension breeze clamps.
When I pulled my bike apart for a stat and leak fix, I saw the drip on the bottom of the stat/hose connection. Absolutely no question what was leaking. Remember to pull the bottom of the radiator out (i.e. pull it forward) gently when you are removing it from the upper hook (otherwise you can bend the radiator hanger bracket). If you get this far and see no drips, its an unenviable task to do what Andrew said, and its necessary to pull the throttle bodies to change all the small hoses up there (not so much to simply tighten a clamp or two). Larry told me it IS possible to do everything from the front, but you need a child's size hands with the strength of superman to get some of the old hoses off.....
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2006
- Messages
- 9,705
- Location
- Jacksonville
- Bike
- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
- 2024 Miles
- 010688
- STOC #
- 6651
My experience was all the hoses and clamps except the small ones to the wax pellet enrichener and oil cooler are accessible from the front after removing the radiator. You need a 6 mm nut driver and an extension or two depending of the lengths of extensions in the tool box. Lack of deposits on these small hoses indicated they never leaked, at least on my bike. Like Peter said, it is the usually the O ring in the thermostat housing and the hoses connecting to the t-stat housing that develop leaks, and they are right up front.
OP
OP
thanks for the advice now a question which is not meant to start a debate. my old truck leaked coolant . looked like from the radiator. I put KSEAL in it and the leak stopped and has held for 4 years and caused not problems. why won't this work on the st ? my 07 wing 257,000 miles has original hoses clamp etc and has never leaked a drop. why the st ? never thought i'd put a drip pan under a honda. the st1300 is my most favorite bike. ride safe
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Based on my own experience with my ST, and what I have read here from multiple people who have had the same issue, I think that Honda just screwed up and didn't tighten those hose clamps sufficiently when they came down the assembly line. Mine leaked when it was new as well. I tightened the hose clamps and have never had another leak.
Same here. After I tightened the hose clamps my ST has not leaked a drop.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 9,521
- Location
- Cedar City, Utah
- Bike
- 12/04 ST 1300s
- 2024 Miles
- 000420
- STOC #
- 5901
Yes on replacing the joint hose. You really don't need to replace the clamps. I have reused my numerous times and have never had an issue!
Nobody can ask a question here and not start a friendly debate. Hey, its how we all learn w/ no consequences. Besides, its entertaining for those of us who cannot/do not ride in the winter. My opinions only - YMMV - stop leak is a bandaid and while potato soup might stop a leak in your radiator, it can also clog small passageways and/or the thermostat. And, if it did do damage, do you want to deal with a stuck bike while on a trip? Many of us cherish the reliability of our ST's; is it worth giving that up?
Would you buy a bike or a car if the seller told you he had used KSeal in it four years ago and it was still holding? There are a LOT of things we can get away with that are not good mechanical practice. Back to your other question. I think the OEM clamps are too narrow and to thin. When I replaced the two radiator hoses the stainless bands were beginning to cut into the rubber so I replaced them with constant tension clamps. Manufacurers make a lot of decisions based on cost and what is 'good enough'. We can only guess what Honda was thinking.
My 2005 is still on original hose and clamps, they've been on and off a few dozen times. I do keep a spare hose assembly around, but with minimal flexing the hose has plenty of life and longevity.
PS I bought the 2003 Ground cap recall kit, it included the hose and clamps for about half the price of the hose by itself.