Accessing the shifter linkage

[skinl19]

It looks like you need to pull off the lower fairing to access the shifter linkage?

 

[Oldbikefixr]

I lubed mine last maintenance in which the cowls were removed so I don't know if it's absolutely necessary. Just went into the garage and took a look. It's dark and tight, I'd take the lower cowls both off.

 

[CYYJ]

It looks like you need to pull off the lower fairing to access the shifter linkage?

No, not necessary. But it is desirable that you remove the linkage to clean it and lubricate it. Here's a link to an illustrated post that tells you how to do that: ST1100 - Shift Linkage Tune-up. Once you get it apart, cleaned, and fully lubricated, you will note a significant improvement in shift performance.

It's not at all difficult to remove the linkage, but you will need two more or less identical 12 mm box end wrenches to remove it.

Michael

 

[skinl19]

No, not necessary. But it is desirable that you remove the linkage to clean it and lubricate it. Here's a link to an illustrated post that tells you how to do that: ST1100 - Shift Linkage Tune-up. Once you get it apart, cleaned, and fully lubricated, you will note a significant improvement in shift performance.

It's not at all difficult to remove the linkage, but you will need two more or less identical 12 mm box end wrenches to remove it.

Michael

Thanks, the article is what prompted me to do this, plus it was starting to have some hard upshifts from time to time. With the bike on the center stand it looks like the linkage is difficult to access. Can you reach everything from underneath? Edit: just looked again and I guess you could get in from the underside but in any case not having a lift looks like it is not going to be a fun job. Not sure how you did it in 5 minutes.

 

[SMSW]

I'd pull the lower cowl. I don't like pulling on plastic mostly because hidden little tabs have a habit of breaking off with this kind of abuse. The lower cowl is the easiest piece of tupperware to remove.

I never believe other folk's time estimates. I work at my own speed and as I get older, things seem to take longer. Besides, I always find I need a part or something from the hardware store.

 

[Smudgemo]

Consider new rubber boots while you're in there. If they're original, they'll be hard and won't protect the joint as well as a new set.

 

[ST1100Y]

Quick-shot: lithium spray-grease into the ball-joints
Proper, long term fix: remove linkage, clean all properly, apply water-resistant grease in ball-joints and on the shifter-pivot... annually
You might do that while attending the side-stand with the same care...

 

[CYYJ]

I'd pull the lower cowl. The lower cowl is the easiest piece of Tupperware to remove.

I agree, the whole process is easier if you remove that black shroud that goes around the bottom of the motorcycle. As @SMSW noted, it's the easiest piece of plastic to remove, because you can remove it without having to remove anything else first. Just pay attention to what bolt comes out of what hole when you remove it, if my memory is correct, there are different types of bolts (shouldered vs. normal) on that lower plastic piece. It's important to put the shoulder bolts back in the correct holes.

Michael

 

[skinl19]

I agree, the whole process is easier if you remove that black shroud that goes around the bottom of the motorcycle. As @SMSW noted, it's the easiest piece of plastic to remove, because you can remove it without having to remove anything else first. Just pay attention to what bolt comes out of what hole when you remove it, if my memory is correct, there are different types of bolts (shouldered vs. normal) on that lower plastic piece. It's important to put the shoulder bolts back in the correct holes.

Michael

I think this will be the way to go once I have more time. I did remove the three lower bolts on the shifter side so that I could get my hand in there to spray some lithium lube on the joints.

 

[Kevcules]

I just did this job on my 1300
I removed the side stand first to inspect and heavily lubricate it. Quite a bit of "slop" there, but sounds normal. I also removed the oil filter as I couldn't see how to remove the shifter linkage easily without it being out of the way.

I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 12mm box end on the inside nut for the bolt holding the linkage in place. Then the 10mm pinch bolt holding the shifter to the engine was easily reached with a long extension.

My shifter linkage was still moving pretty well. I lubed it with lithium grease and re-assembled. I also rotated one of the rod ends one revolution out to lower the shifter height.

The linkage went in, a little more difficult than it came out. I was going to remove the side stand plate the arm bolts on to access the area where the linkage bolted on, but managed to slide it back into place after a few tries. There is not much room at all to try and hold that nut in place while trying to turn the linkage bolt! Thankfully it's shouldered which helped. I wish I could have turned the bike upside down instead of laying beside it on cold cement!

I do notice an easier shift now, especially when down shifting and looking for neutral.

 

[dwalby]

Just pay attention to what bolt comes out of what hole when you remove it, if my memory is correct, there are different types of bolts (shouldered vs. normal) on that lower plastic piece. It's important to put the shoulder bolts back in the correct holes.

On my '97 there is only one bolt that's different from all the rest, its the one that's the furthest rearward on the right side, and its just a tad shorter than all the others. But, its still a good idea the first time to put them in order somewhere where you can remember which bolt was in which hole originally, just in case.

 

[DeanR]

On my '97 there is only one bolt that's different from all the rest, its the one that's the furthest rearward on the right side, and its just a tad shorter than all the others.

I have yet to remember that when I have all the bolts sitting in a pile on the floor.

 

[Larry Fine]

I have yet to remember that when I have all the bolts sitting in a pile on the floor.

Try a Styrofoam or pressed cardboard egg carton. You can label each cell with a Sharpie.

 

[skinl19]

I just did this job on my 1300
I removed the side stand first to inspect and heavily lubricate it. Quite a bit of "slop" there, but sounds normal. I also removed the oil filter as I couldn't see how to remove the shifter linkage easily without it being out of the way.

I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 12mm box end on the inside nut for the bolt holding the linkage in place. Then the 10mm pinch bolt holding the shifter to the engine was easily reached with a long extension.

My shifter linkage was still moving pretty well. I lubed it with lithium grease and re-assembled. I also rotated one of the rod ends one revolution out to lower the shifter height.

The linkage went in, a little more difficult than it came out. I was going to remove the side stand plate the arm bolts on to access the area where the linkage bolted on, but managed to slide it back into place after a few tries. There is not much room at all to try and hold that nut in place while trying to turn the linkage bolt! Thankfully it's shouldered which helped. I wish I could have turned the bike upside down instead of laying beside it on cold cement!

I do notice an easier shift now, especially when down shifting and looking for neutral.

Thanks for the writeup of your experience with the linkage. I wonder how much of a difference there is between the 1100 and 1300 linkage for access and removal. While the part numbers are different, the concept is similar.

 

[kiltman]

On mine there were three sizes, the two bolts that attach in the front were the longest and the one on the rear right side was the shortest. The parts lists from Partzilla shows only 2 different sizes. All but the rear right are the same.
Now I think I may have swapped the two front ones out for longer bolts from my 1990 to the 97 then to the 2002. At one time the original bolts weren’t grabbing the clips and I found ones with a few more threads that did the trick so I stuck with it.

 

[CYYJ]

I wonder how much of a difference there is between the 1100 and 1300 linkage for access and removal.

I own one of each model, and I can tell you that it is a lot easier to remove the shift linkage assembly from the 1100 than it is to remove it from the 1300.

Michael

 

[ReSTored]

I found it easier to remove the lower fairing. I also used a mirrored door from a tri door bathroom vanity I replaced years ago. I place the mirror flat on the floor and also shine a light on it so it reflects up and illuminates everything nicely so I can see what I was doing.

 

[TerryS]

I own one of each model, and I can tell you that it is a lot easier to remove the shift linkage assembly from the 1100 than it is to remove it from the 1300.

Michael

I removed the linkage on my 1300 two weeks ago; I won't be a hurry to do that again, but it was worthwhile to lube the joints and adjust the shift lever position. The 1100 was much, much easier by conmparison.

I found it easier to remove the lower fairing. I also used a mirrored door from a tri door bathroom vanity I replaced years ago. I place the mirror flat on the floor and also shine a light on it so it reflects up and illuminates everything nicely so I can see what I was doing.

Great idea; seeing what I was doing was the hardest part of the job. It sure is dark in there.

 

[huntingdog]

Can someone take a photo of the shift linkage on their ST1100 while it is mounted on the bike? The part that goes to the gearshift arm ( gearbox side). I know it is a tough photo to take but it will help me a lot.

 

[Upt' North]

I know you didn't ask for this, but just in case it helps.